Ideas for rebuilding my shuttle bus walls/roof?

[polomasta]

As you can see, I ended up taking the shell down to the frame, due to mold and rust.

I'll soon be diving into the rebuild. Thought I would put it out to the incredible pool of knowledge here to see if anyone has any recommendations/ideas/advice for redoing the walls and roof?

Thanks in advance!


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[s.e.charles]

I think there should be something to isolate the side skins from the framing to minimize that corrosive action.

sorry; that's all I got . . .

 

[45Kevin]

Wow. Talk about digging in to it.

I'd go back to the aluminum skin and line the inside of the metal frame with plywood or styrofoam strips to minimize cold/heat transfer.
Then fill the voids with spray foam or the insulation of you choice, then vapour barrier and then the inside wall material.

 

[luthj]

Sikaflex body adhesive, when used correctly, is stronger than fasteners, and will provide some thermal isolation.

Depending on the curvature, a skin made from foam core composite panels may work. Usually they are two aluminium sheets with closed cell foam between.

Check the galvanic series for all metals in contact. You may need corrosion inhibiting primers, or isolating coatings to prevent galvanic corrosion.

 

[polomasta]

Wow. Talk about digging in to it.

I'd go back to the aluminum skin and line the inside of the metal frame with plywood or styrofoam strips to minimize cold/heat transfer.
Then fill the voids with spray foam or the insulation of you choice, then vapour barrier and then the inside wall material.

Sikaflex body adhesive, when used correctly, is stronger than fasteners, and will provide some thermal isolation.

Depending on the curvature, a skin made from foam core composite panels may work. Usually they are two aluminium sheets with closed cell foam between.

Check the galvanic series for all metals in contact. You may need corrosion inhibiting primers, or isolating coatings to prevent galvanic corrosion.

yeah, when I took it apart the exterior was aluminum sheeting backed with a very thin piece of wood (not sure exactly what type)... then glued to that was 1" foam insulation... then interior wall glued to the other side.

from all the suggestions I've received here and on other forums, sounds like essentially re-doing that will be the best approach.

 

[Bbasso]

How thick were the previous walls?
What's the dimensions of the framing material?
Are you willing or able to build thicker walls? Yes that would decrease interior space.
Capable of welding, using rivits, and expoy?
Be sure to plan your electrical wiring before building the walls too.

 

[mezmochill]

1/4" plywood sandwiched between inner and outlayer of fiberglass makes strong light panels. Need to paint or gelcoat outside to protect form uv. Insulate however you want on inside. Cheap and easy. Make cut templates with cardboard.
If you want it to look all professional probably not the way to go. But if your going to beat it up and use it, why not.

 

[polomasta]

How thick were the previous walls?
What's the dimensions of the framing material?
Are you willing or able to build thicker walls? Yes that would decrease interior space.
Capable of welding, using rivits, and expoy?
Be sure to plan your electrical wiring before building the walls too.

previous walls were roughly 1/4" thick... I think the exterior skin will need to be about the same to properly fit under the front and back sections. I'm not necessarily opposed to thicker interior walls.

I don't have any welding/rivet/epoxy experience, although I could recruit some help if I needed to go that route.

 

[Len.Barron]

Clean the heavy/loose rust scale off the framing with a wire brush then coat it with POR-15, that will convert/encapsulate the rust. Reinstall the panels with a bead of sikaflex at the frame to skin contact and make sure to "wet assemble" your rivets with the same.

 

[polomasta]

Clean the heavy/loose rust scale off the framing with a wire brush then coat it with POR-15, that will convert/encapsulate the rust. Reinstall the panels with a bead of sikaflex at the frame to skin contact and make sure to "wet assemble" your rivets with the same.

Sikaflex has been mentioned a couple times. Would this be used in place of screws (which is how it was all attached before) or in addition to?


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[Len.Barron]

Would this be used in place of screws (which is how it was all attached before) or in addition to?

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in addition to

 

[derjack]

glue instead of screws
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It´s in German but I guess you´ll get the idea. Noone in europe (with experience an knowledge) will use srews!

Depending on budget you can use sandwich plates or you can cover with aluminium or va steel or steel. You do NOT need thick materials nor do these enhance structure! The strength is NOT coming from the cover - it is build by the frame.
I personally would use Brantho 3in1 rust proof color, this stuff is genius, nothing you can get in local shops, as it an industry stuff. You can use it rusty surface, it actually does not stick very good on total clean surfaces.
I ve read a thread from someone building a shelter from v2a on steel frame. v2a was used in 0,7 mm thickness. And he knew what he was doing!