I have a 94 pick up v6 , stock. Its got 129k on it all I have done it put new shocks on it . Im wanting to lift it a little maybe just inch or two. Not really wanting bigger tires. But do want just a little more ground clearance. Ive been looking around this site a while. Lots ot tocomas and 4 runners. any links or ideas i promise Ill mark it in my favorites. Thanks.
Just a little more clearance
- Thread starter SSBAJ
- Start date
Blizz
Observer
Hello,
I think you'll find this thread interesting:
http://www.yotatech.com/f31/cheapest-best-way-lift-early-ifs-trucks-124467/
David
I think you'll find this thread interesting:
http://www.yotatech.com/f31/cheapest-best-way-lift-early-ifs-trucks-124467/
David
BogusBlake
2006 Expedition Trophy Champion
You won't get "ground clearance" without taller tires.
You will get a better breakover angle though.
You will get a better breakover angle though.
I dont really want to get bigger tires mainly for gas mileage and mine are pretty new already. I was reading on that 4 crawler site and it said if there was tire rubbing issues with 33 12.50s that to go to narrower tire 33 10.50. I have never heard of that tire. is there something i dont know?
njtaco
Explorer
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
There is also a 33x9.50x15 tire (what I run). You can get Northwest Offroad springs in a stock height with higher capacity, which actually give you about 3/4" of lift. This will make your truck sit pretty close to level with most typical loads and just slightly stink bug with an empty bed, assuming you don't mess with the front stock ride height. This combo will fit 31x10.50 tires easily and might even clear a 33x9.50, just maybe. Going with about 2" in the back and cranking the torsion rods to their max ride height will clear a 33x9.50 no problems and a 33x10.50 most likely.
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Brian894x4
Explorer
The cheapest way to lift the rear is a longer rear shackle. You can gain about 1.5" and get some better articulation in the rear and slightly better ride.
For the front, the ball joint spacer looks interesting. I haven't had IFS since 2002, so this is before my time, but I would have tried it had it been available back then.
You're on the right track keeping your lift low. The biggest key about fitting tires is the wheel spacing. Stock wheels are more inset and can fit taller tires, because the rubbing issues up to about 33s where the rear of the tire meets the rear of the inner fender during turning. Most after market wheels for Toyotas have less backspacing and offset them outward which causes the wheel to rub, sometimes even with just 31s.
A stock Toyota wheel with 33x10.5-15s would be ideal, if you want 33s with minimal or no lift. BF Goodrich makes that size in thier All Terrain tire, which is a decent tire. They also make it in their mud terrain tires. Both of these tires are slightly shorter than 33s, so gearing will be less effected, but it will be effected.
If you're rig came stock with 4.10s and 28" tires, then upgrading to 33s, will have a pretty significant effect on your vehicle performance. If it came stock with 31s and 4.56s or 4.88s if it was an auto, then it will be less of a big deal to upgrade to 33ish size tires.
You got a great truck there. I ran an '89 with the 22RE for a number of years. Spent more time and money that I care to admit modifying it, including eventually an SAS, and when I look back, it really performed the best (at least for my needs) when it was nearly stock.
For the front, the ball joint spacer looks interesting. I haven't had IFS since 2002, so this is before my time, but I would have tried it had it been available back then.
You're on the right track keeping your lift low. The biggest key about fitting tires is the wheel spacing. Stock wheels are more inset and can fit taller tires, because the rubbing issues up to about 33s where the rear of the tire meets the rear of the inner fender during turning. Most after market wheels for Toyotas have less backspacing and offset them outward which causes the wheel to rub, sometimes even with just 31s.
A stock Toyota wheel with 33x10.5-15s would be ideal, if you want 33s with minimal or no lift. BF Goodrich makes that size in thier All Terrain tire, which is a decent tire. They also make it in their mud terrain tires. Both of these tires are slightly shorter than 33s, so gearing will be less effected, but it will be effected.
If you're rig came stock with 4.10s and 28" tires, then upgrading to 33s, will have a pretty significant effect on your vehicle performance. If it came stock with 31s and 4.56s or 4.88s if it was an auto, then it will be less of a big deal to upgrade to 33ish size tires.
You got a great truck there. I ran an '89 with the 22RE for a number of years. Spent more time and money that I care to admit modifying it, including eventually an SAS, and when I look back, it really performed the best (at least for my needs) when it was nearly stock.
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DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I'm not sure a 16" gains you anything for the width you're trying to get. Ideally you'd need a 265/80R16 to get a 33x10.5, which is not a typical size, either. For the really narrow tires I think 15" still gives you the better option of a 33x10.50 in BFG ATs and MTs or the 33x9.50 in BFG ATs. Super Swamper also has a couple of options in the 33x10.50 or 34x10.50 range on 15" rims.SSBAJ said:
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
To get 1.5" of lift from the shackles they'd have to be pretty long (you get half the increase in lift, so a 1.5" lift shackle is 3" longer than stock). I run 1.5" longer than stock Downey shackles and those will give you about 3/4" of lift. You need to be careful not to put too long of a shackle in because that can rotate the diff too much. This has two effects, first is it can change the driveline angles and give vibrations and second if the pinion is rotated up too much it can cause the oil slinger to no longer sit in a bath of oil, starving the pinion bearing of lube.Brian894x4 said:
Stock IFS 7" wide wheels have about +12mm offset, which is roughly like 4.5" of backspace. I run American Racing Outlaw II 7" rims with -6mm offset, which is about 3.75" of backspacing. These bring the outer edge of my 33x9.50 tires just even with the fender lips and my only rubbing is the pinch seam. This is exactly why I went with the combo I did, the 10.5" wide tires really need to stay on a stock (or at least zero or more positive offset) rims to keep from rubbing. But you can't run ball joint spacers with stock rims, the upper arm will touch. Some people have success, some don't. So since I'm planning on putting in 1.5" ball joint spacers, I had to go with 3.75" backspace wheels.
Right now with the cost of new tires i think i will keep my 31 10.50's for a while and spend the money on ball joint spacers and shackles. My question now is do I get new springs or just shackles or an add a leaf. Also the ball joint spacers seem like a swift idea i just dont want to cut on my truck, maybe i'll want to go back to stock ride someday. Any other options or should i just turn my torision bars a bit and if i do what would i do with the rear to bring it up to match the front?
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
To clear 31" tires, you really don't need to even adjust the front torsion bars and maybe only need a slightly longer than stock shackle (like +1" longer) to level the truck with a load. If you plan to go to 33" tires, I would personally recommend saving your money for a whole new spring pack rather than spending money on Add-A-Leafs, well, ever. I've never had good luck with them, stiff, no flex, breaking, etc. Basically, a 31x10.50 will fit your truck setup like it came from the factory.SSBAJ said:
DaveInDenver said:
Yes , right now I do have 31 10.50s. Its just my suspension does not feel like it used to ( bottoming out, hits hard, etc.) I do realize it is A 94 but I have really taken it very easy on it. So if I adjust the torsion bars all Im getting is just a more aggressive stance. (right?). and to be honest I think I should get some better shocks. I have rancho 5000's they are not very old but I am not impressed.
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