Klaus - 2006 Montero Build

[pwjazz]

Well, Klaus just arrived by way of car carrier this evening! I'll document my build-out here.



Why
I've got a perfectly fine Outback, but I've always longed for a proper low-range transfer case and more room, and as someone who first drove in the 90s, I've got a soft-spot for these older SUVs. Long ago I bought an '02 Isuzu Trooper from Arizona, sight unseen. That was a bad idea, as the infamous 4L30 tranny quickly gave up the ghost. Being either stubborn, a poor learner, or both, I've now ended up buying this Montero sight unseen from Arizona. The previous owner is a cool dude, and it passed the mechanic's check, so there you have it.

Also, I keep wanting to learn how to work on cars. My previous toy/project car was an '02 Mazda Miata (notice a trend here?), but that thing was so clean, low mileage and just generally good that all I did was basic maintenance. It's being sold to help fund the Montero.

Anyway, so far the Montero does not disappoint (except for one unexpected but manageable thing). Assuming that I can turn Klaus into a reliable enough daily driver, I'll probably sell the Outback just so I don't have too many cars around.

What
Having never done much off-road, car-dependent travel, and having two young kids in tow, I'm not planning on anything particularly adventurous just yet, just some short trips with the fam and the occasional solo outing. Klaus will soon move to Kansas with us, where I hope to connect with the folks from Konza Overland and spend some time learning the ropes at places like Tuttle Creek. Come July, Klaus will hopefully make it out to Colorado and hit some of the easier trails in the front range.

How
I'll document my build plan here and update it as I go. First priority is making sure it's safe and reliable and can make the long drive up to Kansas. Second priority is prepping it for some off road adventure.

1. Registration, insurance, etc. ✓
2. Give Klaus a thorough going over myself to see what the mechanic missed ✓
3. Baseline it
   1. Oil ✓
   2. Transmission fluid
   3. Transfer case fluid
   4. Front/rear diff fluid
   5. Coolant
   6. Rubber parts as necessary, ???)
4. Front-end repairs. The mechanic pointed out that it would need a new upper ball joint, which was right (in fact, I think it needs both). The mechanic didn't point out that the front-end is way underdamped, almost like the shocks are blown, except Klaus has an almost brand-new Ironman 4x4 lift, so I'm not yet sure what's up there. In any case, I'll have to sort out the damping, will almost certainly replace both upper control arms, and double check the lower arms/joints and tie rods. The CV joints seem to be in decent shape at least, and the back suspension seems to be fine at first glance anyway. Replace broken front shocks. ✓
5. Fix squeak from driver's side front suspension ✓
6. New General Grabber ATX tires (the old ones still have tread but they're pretty dry) ✓
7. Alignment ✓
8. Professionally inspect airbag?
9. Grease ball joints on both sides
10. Check radiator cap to make sure valve is still present ✓
11. Replace radiator cap ✓
12. Replace fuel pump. Car has trouble starting unless I leave ignition on for a while, probably the check valve is busted. Will want to do a fuel pressure test to verify.
13. Try BG 44K fuel system cleaner
14. Brake fluid
15. Brake pads and discs (still okay, but starting to get a bit low)
16. Squeaking in back (may be brakes, not sure) ✓
17. Replace broken bumper/trim clips
18. Interior detailing including shampoo (Klaus carried some dogs and I'm allergic) ✓
19. Proper emergency kit, including fire extinguisher and first aid kit
20. Recovery gear, including jumper cables, a better jack, tire repair kit, portable air compressor, snatch strap and blanket, necessary shackles(?), ...
21. Rocky Road supersliders
22. Fix small chip in windshield ✓
23. Fix chips in paint that have started rusting (clean rust, touch up paint, clearcoat)
24. Minor leather repair on passenger seat
25. Relocate climate control and install double DIN head unit plus reverse camera. The previous owner already installed a discrete amp and subwoofer, so I don't have to be picky about the audio on the new head unit.
26. Recharge AC

I'm sure this list will get longer, but so far it's mostly stuff that I can do myself, which is nice.

 

[Inyo_man]

Congratulations on the rig!
I hope it brings you many miles and smiles!


Out of curiosity, why are you planning on replacing the control arms on the front end?

Cheers

 

[pwjazz]

why are you planning on replacing the control arms on the front end

This is predicated on the assumption that the upper ball joints are bad. I haven't had a chance to properly inspect them yet, but the boots are clearly leaking, the mechanic said that one of them definitely needs replacing and from my brief test drive last night, there's definitely some clunking up there. I'll have to take a closer look to confirm what exactly is going on, and with the way the front suspension is bouncing around, I wouldn't be surprised if there's more that's worn out.

It's $70 for the OEM ball joint which isn't bad, but if I'm going to do the ball joints, I figure I might as well do the bushings while I'm in there. Sadly, Mitsubishi doesn't seem to sell OEM bushings for the front uppers on their own, just whole control arms. All the aftermarket stuff I've found is polyurethane, but I'd rather stick with rubber. It's $120 for an aftermarket control arm from NAPA, which according to the guy at the store is manufactured by Dana Spicer in the USA. That seems like a decent deal and saves me the hassle of pressing in bushings.

The other thing I considered is Total Chaos control arms, but that seems like overkill before I've even started wheeling the truck.

 

[Inyo_man]

The OEM bushings for the control arms are available, I replaced mine several years ago.
Pressing them out is not too difficult, or you can get a shop to press them out and the new ones in for you.

Replacing the ball joints does not require the removal of the control arms, so it's a much easier job than the a-arm bushings.

You will enjoy the ride when everything is refreshed on the front end!

Cheers

 

[pwjazz]

So, this front shock thing is turning into a bizarre story. The Ironman springs and shocks on this Montero were ordered straight from Ironman less than 5 months ago and installed only 3 months ago. The back of the truck behaves fine, but the front of the truck bounces like Tigger. There's no outwardly visible sign of damage or leakage, and the Ironman guys are perplexed--they haven't heard similar complaints from other Montero owners, and though their warranty is non-transferrable, they offered me a discount on a replacement pair of shocks. The mechanic who did the pre-sale inspection said that he noticed this, but that in his experience it's quite normal for lifted trucks?!

I've never lifted an SUV before, but I've been driving cars, SUVs and trucks for almost 30 years and the only time I've ever experienced this kind of suspension behavior, it's been because of blown shocks. According to Ironman, their softer springs are as stiff or slightly stiffer than stock, and supposedly they match their shock valving to the springs, so this bouncing seems ... wrong. Is this really normal for lifted 4x4s?

 

[DSSA]

So, this front shock thing is turning into a bizarre story. The Ironman springs and shocks on this Montero were ordered straight from Ironman less than 5 months ago and installed only 3 months ago. The back of the truck behaves fine, but the front of the truck bounces like Tigger. There's no outwardly visible sign of damage or leakage, and the Ironman guys are perplexed--they haven't heard similar complaints from other Montero owners, and though their warranty is non-transferrable, they offered me a discount on a replacement pair of shocks. The mechanic who did the pre-sale inspection said that he noticed this, but that in his experience it's quite normal for lifted trucks?!

I've never lifted an SUV before, but I've been driving cars, SUVs and trucks for almost 30 years and the only time I've ever experienced this kind of suspension behavior, it's been because of blown shocks. According to Ironman, their softer springs are as stiff or slightly stiffer than stock, and supposedly they match their shock valving to the springs, so this bouncing seems ... wrong. Is this really normal for lifted 4x4s?

That certainly looks like nothing but spring going on in there. The fact that it bounces several times after you stop compressing it makes me think that there's not much dampening happening.

That said, I'm about to pick up a 2006 clone of "Klaus". 70K 2006 Limited that began life in AZ, but has spent the last 6-7 years in PA--mostly sitting.

Another stray Mitsu following me home...

 

[DSSA]

1. Recharge rear AC(?) depending on what the kids say

Rear A/C is a result of the same compressor as the A/C in the front. There's no separate charge.

 

[pwjazz]

70K 2006 Limited that began life in AZ, but has spent the last 6-7 years in PA--mostly sitting.

70K, nice! I'm a bit jealous, but more happy for you!

 

[Michael Brown]

Congrats on the new ride. The bouncing after you stop definitely looks like blown shocks. Or at least, severely underrated.
I have seen reports of Ironman 4x4 systems having some issues in quality, but don't know anyone with them personally.
This should be warranty covered, in my opinion. Your other option is to fit shocks from OME or Bilstein in the front.

Rear AC is run off the same charge as the front, as mentioned. It does have its own heater core in the rear passenger corner with the blower.
You may just need to run the rear AC for a bit for the system to flow there. Check that the dial on the rear seat control is set to cold as well.

I would also recommend getting a FSM for you vehicle from my signature. Good luck with everything!

 

[plh]

Congrats on the new ride. The bouncing after you stop definitely looks like blown shocks. Or at least, severely underrated.
I have seen reports of Ironman 4x4 systems having some issues in quality, but don't know anyone with them personally.
This should be warranty covered, in my opinion. Your other option is to fit shocks from OME or Bilstein in the front.

Rear AC is run off the same charge as the front, as mentioned. It does have its own heater core in the rear passenger corner with the blower.
You may just need to run the rear AC for a bit for the system to flow there. Check that the dial on the rear seat control is set to cold as well.

I would also recommend getting a FSM for you vehicle from my signature. Good luck with everything!

Congrats, big fan of Bilstein shocks on these, Check that the rear air A/C lines have not been disconnected and plugged. Its a thing. Once the rear air hard lines get a leak, most people just plug them and recharge the system with less freon being the OEM replacements are NLA.

 

[pwjazz]

Congrats on the new ride. The bouncing after you stop definitely looks like blown shocks. Or at least, severely underrated.
I have seen reports of Ironman 4x4 systems having some issues in quality, but don't know anyone with them personally.
This should be warranty covered, in my opinion. Your other option is to fit shocks from OME or Bilstein in the front.

Rear AC is run off the same charge as the front, as mentioned. It does have its own heater core in the rear passenger corner with the blower.
You may just need to run the rear AC for a bit for the system to flow there. Check that the dial on the rear seat control is set to cold as well.

I would also recommend getting a FSM for you vehicle from my signature. Good luck with everything!

Thanks. Yeah, I've actually got the FSM, I've just spent most of the time on the suspension section so far, haven't gotten into the climate controls yet

The problem with the Ironman suspension is that I'm not the original owner and the warranty isn't transferrable.

Going with OME or Bilstein shocks is how I'm leaning right now, assuming that the light duty OME application pairs reasonably well with the light duty Ironman springs(?).

 

[pwjazz]

Congrats, big fan of Bilstein shocks on these, Check that the rear air A/C lines have not been disconnected and plugged. Its a thing. Once the rear air hard lines get a leak, most people just plug them and recharge the system with less freon being the OEM replacements are NLA.

Thanks. Are you running Bilstein 4600's? From this, it looks like part 24-062718 is the one for the front, is that what you're running?

 

[plh]

Thanks. Are you running Bilstein 4600's? From this, it looks like part 24-062718 is the one for the front, is that what you're running?

Yes - those are the ones. To my knowledge 51-- series are not available.

 

[pwjazz]

It appears that I picked the wrong mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection ?‍♂️

He said that one of the front ball joints needed replacing. Well, I finally had time to get the wheels off, and the ball joints are fine. Yeah, they've leaked a little grease and could stand a little grease injection, but there's no play. Tie rods are fine too. The shocks, however, are clearly shot, as confirmed by both bounce test and uneven wear on the outer tread blocks. Probably the mechanic mistook the noises from the broken shocks for a failing ball joint or something. Anyway, I've got some Bilstein 4600's coming on Tuesday and I'm hopeful that this'll resolve most of the front end issues.

The mechanic also said that the 2 year old battery wasn't holding up well and due for replacement. Lo and behold, yesterday Klaus wouldn't start. He cranked, but he just wouldn't turn over. So last night I charged the battery and tried again this morning. While my wife tried to start him, I held the voltmeter. The battery read 12.3 volts unloaded, and while starting never dropped below 11 volts, and the starter cranked like a champ. My wife, who used to drive a beat up old GMC Jimmy in Chicago winters, was like "let me give it a little gas while starting". Sure enough, Klaus started up and then ran just fine. It turns out that if I let the ignition sit in the on position until the fuel pump stops running, then Klaus starts up great. So, I'm 95% sure that the check valve on the fuel pump is bad. Nothing urgent to fix, but since the fuel pump is surely up there in age, I've added it towards the bottom of my list.*

One of my goals in getting an older 4x4 was to learn more about cars, and I have to say that between various Internet resources (and my wife), I think I'll be in better shape learning this stuff myself than trying to rely on the typical mechanic.

* While I had the voltmeter out, I verified that while running, the alternator is putting out more than 14 volts, so I think we're good there too.

 

[pwjazz]

While tooling around out front, I did a quick little interior repair. The silver paint on the window controls had rubbed off from years of use, so I just sped it along its way with some magic eraser and exposed the smooth black underneath.