Looking for advise: Upgrades needed for Ram 2500 to carry truck camper?

[Juno13]

Hi explorers and experts!

We are fairly new to the world of overlanding and off-roading, so I apologize for these 'beginner' questions. It's been tough to find good answers online, hence I was hoping for some advise from more seasoned like-minded folks.

We recently purchased a 2015 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi (~ 3000lbs payload). The goal is to purchase a trucker camper that fits this vehicle and to drive it across the US on and off-road (off the paved road, mainly dirt roads that will lead to awesome camp spots and hot springs, we are not necessarily looking to rock-crawl). The truck campers we are looking at are either smaller hard shell or pop-ups, around 1700-2000 lbs dry weight.

Can anyone give us input with regards to improving the suspension in order to carry a truck camper safely and what parts we may need? We heard airbags may be useful? Is there anything else that we should consider adding, for example anything to avoid swaying? An additional question is, is there anyone who has experience with this vehicle and has recommendations on which truck camper might be an optimal fit?

If this question was already tackled elsewhere, I do apologize once more, I haven't been able to spot it and would appreciate a link to an older thread or article that might answer my questions.

THANKS SO MUCH!!

 

[Explorerinil]

Congrats and welcome! You got a great truck that will take you far, is easy to work on and the aftermarket support is great. Are you planning on a whinch, whinch bumper, larger tires, after market suspension or any other mods? Or are you planning on keeping it basically stock?

For the time being get a set of timberns (spelled wrong) or some rear air bags and a set of daystar cradles. If you are planning on going all out, consider a carli suspension set up, they don’t make one for the gasser but the diesel kit will work, you will get a better ride and it will handle that camper well.

 

[Explorerinil]

FYI some people run 19.5 wheels and tires with in bed campers, if you are planning on going that route check out Rickson wheels.

If I were running an in bed camper and did not do allot of off-roading or did not need to air down tires I would have a set of 19.5 wheels. Check out the turbo diesel register, look at their forum.

 

[JaSAn]

I have a 2012 Ram 2500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Standard cab, 8' box with an FWC Grandby. The truck is stock, no modifications to the suspension (will be updating shocks this summer). The truck & camper weigh out at < 8000 lbs with 2 weeks supplies. The truck sits level, and handles Forest Service washboard, moderate two-track, and side winds adequately.

What is the advantage of 19.5" wheels?

 

[Explorerinil]

I have a 2012 Ram 2500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Standard cab, 8' box with an FWC Grandby. The truck is stock, no modifications to the suspension (will be updating shocks this summer). The truck & camper weigh out at < 8000 lbs with 2 weeks supplies. The truck sits level, and handles Forest Service washboard, moderate two-track, and side winds adequately.

What is the advantage of 19.5" wheels?

Commercial grade tires that allow for a higher load capacity, ties flex less. 19.5 rims are standard on 4500 and 5500 trucks along with ford variants. A SRW truck on 19.5’s would be great for an in bed camper.

 

[Explorerinil]

Rickson Wheel Manufacturing

Original designers and manufacturers of direct replacement commercial-duty wheel and tire upgrades for ¾ & 1-ton trucks, vans, cab & chassis, motorhomes and trailers. Wheels & tires professionally Match Mounted and Balanced for a guaranteed smooth ride and shipped to your door.

ricksontruckwheels.com

 

[Bayou Boy]

19.5s are exactly the wrong answer for his use. He doesn't need the capacity and they are going to ride like crap on dirt with zero ability to air down. The various Toyo and Nitto 35s available that fit 18 and 20" wheels with 3960-4080# capacity are more than enough.

Frankly, I think 19.5s on SRW trucks don't serve any purpose today. Back when you could only get 3500# capacity 16 and 17" tires they made sense. If you need to carry more than 8160# on the rear axle, you need a DRW truck. 8000# plus the empty front axle weight of a diesel truck at 5000# puts you at 13000# GVW. That's DRW territory.

 

[Regcabguy]

Contact Thuren @ https://www.thurenfabrication.com/
I'd stick with a popup with the V-8 and the 2500.

 

[Mundo4x4Casa]

Lots of ways to go here. If you indeed need a hard side camper, the Northstar Laredo SC (self contained) is under 2K pounds dry and has a lot of flexibility of features as each one is custom made and can be had for a short or long bed. If it's just you, you will love it. If it's you and a significant other, he/she will really love it. We just finished an agonizing, 6 month camper search, personally inspecting and going through the motions on most of the TC's available, both hard and soft side, and will pick up the winner a N.S.S.C. in September at the factory in Iowa. Our former camper, a 1998 Lance Lite 165-s short bed sold this week. We loved the rig for almost two decades. It was the narrowest (86" wide); least tall (6' 5" inside); and lightest (1842 pounds, wet) camper available at the time. It had a lot of storage space, mostly because it was the stripped model without: air conditioning; oven; microwave; TV. The best night's sleep we ever get was in that camper. It's quiet in there. The new Northstar is basically an updated clone (size-wise) of our old one with bigger tanks, 4 season insulation, and LOTS of storage; with tried and true technology. A little less bling, but that and $3 won't get you through a snowstorm or extended trip.
To bring your 2500 up to snuff on the rear axle, add an aftermarket anti sway bar; one low poundage add-a-leaf to the pack (maybe 1500 pound); better rear shocks. This would be a good start, and maybe all you have to do. Maybe.
jefe

 

[andytruck]

Late to answer, but maybe others will need to read...

I can only answer about air bags.
Maybe you will not even need to do anything. Yes, your truck will sag some in the rear with 2,000lbs dropped in. If you only did short trips, then you could just deal with it. On my 2500 it would just sit on the helper springs and have a harsh ride.
I put on air bags.
Let me point out that with a TC you should never put bags inside the frame. Only put the bags under the frame (they should be at the same width that your existing springs (coil or leaf) are. If you put them inside, more narrow, you will create a more toppley truck. Having a narrow spring stance lets the TC and truck roll and lean much much more easy.
There are a lot of nay-sayers when it comes to bags but they either used the bags inside, like on the bump stops, or have never used bags at all, or have read post by those who are also wrong.
Air suspension is used on anything from bicycles, to motorcycles, to race cars, to big rigs and is very good. All the air bags on your truck are doing is increasing the spring. A heavier spring will hold more weight.
You can get into how much weight axles can hold, but that is not the discussion and need not be discussed here.

Airbags are great, they restore the normal ride height and restore a smooth ride.
You will not want to restore the ride height to exactly the unloaded height in the rear. If you measure then measure both front and rear as the weight will also possibly lower the front (when level). Better to measure the angle than the bumper height. You truck is meant to be loaded so when empty rides high in the rear, too high. So, you should have some sag for the truck's front end to drive correctly when loaded.
Returning the rear height (or angle or the truck) to mostly its unloaded height is fine. Never return it to exactly the pre-height.
Generally most TCs will require 25-55 psi in the bags. Te get to 100% height could take 65 or 70. Too much.

Best option is new leaf springs (or coils) that handle the extra weight, but then when you drive unloaded you have a super harsh ride and can't do anything about it other than load up with 2,000 lbs of bricks.

I personally love the air bags.

***edit***
Air down your tires for off road and this will save your ball joints and everything from pounding. You will need a good way to air back up. Out west you might find the maintained dirt roads have a lot of washboard surfaces that can be hell. If all you are doing is maintained (or nearly maintained) dirt roads when off road, then you really do not need anything special as even all cars can handle dirt roads. There are worse surfaces in AR interstates. Dirt roads in CO and other close states are common and used by all motorist as regular roads. do not worry about these.
For cross country driving you will get better mpg with pop up camper. Your gas engine mpg will suffer with a full size as well as your wallet.
Get an E rated tire for sure if putting in a TC. But full size TC is fine for driving those maintained dirt roads

 

[doug720]

Remember, all camper weights are dry - no water, supplies, people, propane, etc.

The SC camper, will weigh about 1300 pounds more than the brochure weight when the above and few normal options are added.

400 - 2 people
200 - Clothes and eq for 2 people
320 - 41 gal water
90 - AC
21 - Micro
20 - TV
55 - Awning
50 - Propane
150 - Food and drinks for 2 people for a few days

1300 pounds added being conservative. ***All added weigthts came from SC Campers listing and accessories list - http://www.northstarcampers.com/products/hardwall-truck-campers-laredo/#Accessories

Your 2090# camper is now 3390#! Add 30 gallons of gas (210#) plus misc (100#) and now the load is 3700# minimum!

Everything weighs more and we take more of it than we think.

 

[Buliwyf]

Sumo Springs Rebel, or even the lil bumpstop versions might be fine.

Never skimp on tires. Cooper STT and Toyo MT's seem to handle campers off road well. The Toyo's are a harder compound IMO.

Helwig sway bars are popular.

Frame mounted camper tie downs help a bit as well. 1" of bed flex is a few inches of swing at the top of your camper.