Looking to buy my first high end bike light

Sisyphus

Adventurer
Ill be competing in the Maah Daah Hey 100 this summer, which will be my first ever race outside of collegiate road racing.

Im aiming on a 12hr or less finish which would put me finishing in daylight but as with all races, you never really know what is going to happen out there and I would like to be prepared for night riding and also would like to train in riding singletrack at night beforehand just in case.

So Im in the market for my first high end bike light but really dont know what I want and would like to see what has worked out for you guys and gals and what hasnt. Whether it be just using one while commuting at night or while competing in the AZT, GDMBR, Iditiarod etc.

Heres what I think I want,

a self contained light (no wiring or huge battery pack)

1000 lumens or more in the high setting

can run on a dynohub as well.

I currently dont have a dynohub but if for some reason I get hooked on the mtb race idea and want to do the AZT or similar, Id like it to be compatible with any hub I end up buying.

Thanks!
 

Jason911

Adventurer
Running dual MagicShine lights for the past two years with zero issues. Handlebar mounted I changed the lens to a flood to get a wide spread, and on my helmet is a spot lens to really throw the distance. Both have external battery packs that can be swapped between the lights, or can be tied together for a really long-lasting beam. 3 different power settings, LED bulb, Li-ion batteries, 1000 lumens. Made in USA too. The top-end model puts out 3000 lumen. Amazon has them in the warehouse deals routinely marked down.

I run two of these: http://magicshine.com/ShowProduct.aspx?id=65
 

OCD Overland

Explorer
I'd take a headlamp too. It's nice to be able to look side to side, but also really useful if you have a repair or dismount for anything.
 

tuffy

Observer
Race lights are race lights (1800+ lumens) and commuter lights (800 or less) are...well...helpful. :)
If you're truly on the fence as to whether you'd use a light for an overnight race again, I'd start with renting or borrowing a set for this race from a friend or bike shop.
  • your $250 or less threshold won't get you a race light
  • an 800 lumen or less light will only be helpful in twilight conditions
  • I don't know much about dynamo hubs, but I don't know that one would keep charging a small USB light
The 24 hour races I've done REQUIRE two lights - a helmet mounted and a bar mounted. I have a 750 lumen for the head and an 1800 lumen for the bike. A single 8 cell battery for the larger 1800 won't last from 9pm to sun up, so you'd end up needing another battery to swap out in the middle of the night. Just those lights and the extra battery will be around $500+. All the lights in my house are Nite Riders and they are spectacular for the conditions I ride - deep forest with zero ambient light from cities.
With that said, I imagine you're going to love the feel of riding in the pitch black (I did!) and you'll be hooked and will want to do more overnights, be it racing or cruising.

Eric
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
You really only need huge lumens for higher speeds as to not "outrun" your beam. I race with a NiteRider DIY Pro 3600 dual beam system, but it's huge and heavy. But, I can haul *** with it and never want more light. In fact, I seldom have it on high. But...for ultra-distance racing like the CTR, I just use a 150 lumen headlamp and pack extra AA batteries. I'm usually going pretty slow in those events. Going fast in the dark by yourself miles from a road is not smart.

I'm a huge advocate of NiteRider lights. The extra cost is always worth it to me.
 

MANUCHAO

Aventurero
Im running the Cygolite 1300.

got it for $187 at Amazon.
Great little light.. with lots of power.. I run it on high most of the time and on Boost on the downhill sections...
Self contained and has survived a couple of rainy, muddy rides...
You can also get the external battery if you need to run longer times....
 
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tuffy

Observer
You really only need huge lumens for higher speeds as to not "outrun" your beam. I race with a NiteRider DIY Pro 3600 dual beam system, but it's huge and heavy. But, I can haul *** with it and never want more light. In fact, I seldom have it on high. But...for ultra-distance racing like the CTR, I just use a 150 lumen headlamp and pack extra AA batteries. I'm usually going pretty slow in those events. Going fast in the dark by yourself miles from a road is not smart.

I'm a huge advocate of NiteRider lights. The extra cost is always worth it to me.
That's a good point - different types of racing requires different lighting. Something using AAs is mandatory when you have no race pit or going multi-day!
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
That's a good point - different types of racing requires different lighting. Something using AAs is mandatory when you have no race pit or going multi-day!
Exactly. Even racing 24 hour events with backup batteries and a pit, I always carry a backup light with AAs and extras in my bag. When your rechargeable battery goes tits up, pop-in batteries are golden.
 

OCD Overland

Explorer
...for ultra-distance racing like the CTR, I just use a 150 lumen headlamp and pack extra AA batteries.
Personally, I find it hard to read the terrain with just a headlamp. Having the light source right at your eyes minimizes the shadows and kind of flattens out everything. In combo with a bike light, it's good, though. But then my eyes are effed anyway.
 

Sisyphus

Adventurer
Wow, thanks to all for your input!

I've decided to purchase a more entry level 800 lumen light that runs on AAs so I can continously run it if the situation reqires. I'll accompy that with my black diamond torch if the trail gets hairy!

If that doesn't work, back to the drawing board post race in August.
 
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