LR 300TDI performance info

K2RVR

Adventurer
Hello folks, Recently put a LR 300TDI with a mechanical fuel injection pump in my 1993 Range Rover Classic. I am hoping to find some information on performance tuning and ideas on getting the most out of the engine. I have found some info by searching google but nothing significant on anything but the stock configuration. Very interested in quick adjustments to increase performance and/or fuel economy.

If you know of a link, it is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Todd
 

Andrew Walcker

Mod Emeritus
Graham and Keith should be chiming in at any moment. I can't believe they haven't been drawn to this thread like a moth to a bright light yet...:)
 

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
Search for Bosch VE pump adjustment. It is the same as a Generation I Dodge Cummins or a Cummins 4BT. You can post in my forum and get some excellent responses. There are four adjustments, smoke screw, full power screw, fueling pin adjustment, and AFC spring adjustment. All found combined can yield little extra smoke and night and day power increase... Cheers, Andre


:beer:
 

revor

Explorer
Oversized intercooler, bigger free flow exhaust, and pump adjustments like Andre said, The VE pump is simple and requires only a few specialized tools to work on that are readily available.. For the easy "no special tools" required version check out:
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3368&page=3&pp=15

Shoudl be enough to get you in trouble.. Some guys claim up to 150 HP with head work.. I'll stick with mild and retain my fuel economy.
 

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
Also make sure you have an EGT gauge before making any adjustments...

I think the larger intercooler might help but it not required. A free flowing exhaust though goes a long way. I would consider 2.5 or 3" bare minimum even out of a small engine like a 300TDI.
 

revor

Explorer
The intercooler on the 300 is Tiny! that said if a guy could have it re-cored with a modern freer (?) flowing core you might do as well.. Yes EGT most important.. Diesels cool by air moving through them.. the more cool air going through the more reasonable the temperature will stay under the load.
Big path for the air to come in bigger path for the air to get out..
 

gjackson

FRGS
Graham and Keith should be chiming in at any moment. I can't believe they haven't been drawn to this thread like a moth to a bright light yet..

Yikes! Something was calling me, but I thought it was just the beer in the fridge! Anyway, what Andre and Keith said. . .

cheers
 

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
Little if any specialized tools required.. 13mm deep socket to unlock the lock rings. The most important of all adjustments being recording where you started and what adjustments you make. Make all adjustments in 1/4-1/2 turn increments at most other than the star wheel adjustment... You can screw it up so you get smoking / over fueling fairly easy, important to know where you started so you can get back to it if you get high amounts of smoke or poor spool up.. This is the advice I wish someone told me. I lost my piece of paper that recorded my fueling changes and was starting from where I had it at and it took me a while to get it back balanced. Also full power screw helps a lot with power but also produces the most smoke. The best is to use a combo of all 4 adjustments to bring in the boost as much as possible with as little smoke and get the engine/turbo going much sooner...

The directions posted earlier were "correct" but not that good... Here is a good one but lacks photos.. My vote is smoke screw in about a 1/4-1/2 turn, star wheel a full turn in or so, diagpharam about 1/4 trun more advanced on the cam lobe, and 1/4-1/2 turn in on the full screw. But this is with the Cummins 4BTs...
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm
 

K2RVR

Adventurer
Wow, some great information... Looks like I'll be doing some reading tonight and causing problems with my truck tomorrow...

:)

Again, thanks!
Todd
 

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