LR3 Bonnet Latch Releasing in Gusts on Freeway

Hi all. Bought an old 05' LR3 V8 with 147K over the COVID summer. Has been great so far with about 7K of my own miles added. In this time I've had the driver side hood latch suddenly release about 20 separate times on the freeway requiring me to quickly slow down and pull off to slam the thing back down. Thing is, once I re-engage the latch you can move the truck by pulling up on the hood each time, so it definitely is latching. On my recent trip across the US on I-70 the latch failed about 5 times a day (Kansas winds were terrible).

1. Has anyone had this issue? I wasn't able to find any threads.
2. What was the solution? I see two options a) replace the cables and latch then cross fingers ( how difficult is this?) b) go crazy and bolt on some JK hood latches. Easy and reliable (I actually have some from rugged ridge)- but might look a little funny on a disco
 

Howski

Well-known member
The hood latches on either side are quite finicky. Try adjusting and lubing them. If it continues see if either or both should be replaced. I still have to slam the hell out of mine and had it pop loose in a similar fashion you mention. Make sure you’re really closing it hard too
 
The hood latches on either side are quite finicky. Try adjusting and lubing them. If it continues see if either or both should be replaced. I still have to slam the hell out of mine and had it pop loose in a similar fashion you mention. Make sure you’re really closing it hard too
Thanks. I have tried adjusting them and the rubber stops up shooting for earlier engagement. I have used WD40 to loosen them up- really helps with getting the hood closed, but a day later it popped open on the way home. I know that isn't really a lubricant though so might try to pick up some graphite to see if that helps. My lever in the cabin is very loose, so I'm leaning towards the cable being frozen with corrosion somewhere. I mocked up the jeep latches last night in the dark... will do again in daylight tonight, but initial impression is nope.
 

sunrisehiker

Adventurer
I had the exact problem for months before I was able to properly diagnose it.Your problem is not actual latches . but rather left hand side cable that goes from left latch to black plastic junction box, that is situated on the left side of engine bay. Junction box that holds both cables, including one that enters through firewall into the drivers footwell with pull level at end. The problem is that latch cable gets water inside and in time rusts out inside the shell conduit sousing it to jam and and move freely. Just replace the cable that runs in engine bay and you should be in good shape. New cable comes with new junction box. Good luck!
 
Well, had an hour before sundown tonight, so here's the result. Howski appealed to the engineer in me lol.

First checked the junction box. I was surprised to find shiny silver cables inside, so I disconnected the cable and manually functioned each side. The side to the latches obviously opens the latches one way, that was tight, but slack the other.
20201204_172133.jpg
Looking at the latch there are two rotating pieces. The leftside has a heavy spring force, but the right side is actually the catch the cable acts on. I found that the right side is almost entirely dependent on the cable position. If the cable gets caught up it basically prevents the right side cam being in the right position to latch the hood.

Moving to the inside I mentioned my lever was almost completely slack- so I pulled the footrest and cowl garnish to find out why. Here's what I found
.20201204_163034.jpg
Frayed wire as the source of my friction. Tinned that over to secure the loose ends.
20201204_163155.jpg
Coil spring for the lever return wasn't engaged at all. Completely free spinning. The brass insert was no longer pressed in fully, so I reset the ends of the spring and used a c-clamp to press back in. Rounded all edges I thought might bite the cable just in case.
So fully reassembled that spring is now able to ensure the right side of each latch is rotated clockwise. This weekend Id like to learn what the latch springs on the right actually do. They only seem to do something as the left side is pushed by the strikers. Finally also dial in the stops and latch position for even gaps to fenders L/R. Greased the junction and each latch surface. Latching is great now though, so fixed for now?
 
And for anyone who ever comes across this- heres what it would look like if I went nuclear
20201204_153847.jpg

I also found a few other things to learn about:
1. What is the orange harness for in the center? Some accessory?
20201204_173941.jpg

2. Apparently I have a waterleak somewhere
20201204_172441.jpg
 
Last update: after the above repair I haven't had the hood pop once on the interstate and this spring has presented some insane winds already. I've even opened the hood repeatedly chasing down the ol 0171 0174 lean codes all winter. Hood closes great, and stays closed.
 

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