Lr3 brake kit recommendation

[Eniam17]

Time for new brakes for me on my lr3; the AB replacement kits are confusing to me with regards to the difference between the kit they say is oem vs the full AB kit, vs the AB kit but with textar pads (which confuses me more because the bputah site says textar is the oe manufacturer for lr3 pads in the first place so why is that kit cheaper than the AB kit?)
Or are there other solutions I should look at?
Any feedback would be helpful, thanks

 

[Derel1cte]

Are you just doing pads or are you doing pads and rotors?

The first time I did my brakes i used the OEM kit from AB but I think that the OEM pads create wayyy too much dust. the front wheels turn black in 2 weeks. The next time i did them, i got some ceramic pads from amazon:
Front Pads (V8 only)
Rear Pads
I've had them on for 4 months. They are nice and quiet, dust free, and seem to be doing well on wear.

 

[rlynch356]

i used the AB OEM kit - fronts are NP - get one of these... http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-Q...652&sr=8-2&keywords=Lisle+disc+brake+spreader

makes moving the caliper pistons a 2 min job -

you need..
pads, rotors (if like mine they last 15-20 only), 2 caliper bolts, 1 disc screw, and sensor (all per side) for the front.
Rears are a bit more work.. since you have to release the electric parking brake (small open hole.. move to bottom or rotor then use a small screw driver to release the tension wheel - basically the same after that then retention the parking brake (snug tight then back off 3 clicks)
in both cases the caliper comes off (hence the caliper bolts) and the rest is easy...
use brake grease on the backs of the pads only (and sparingly at that) - DO NOT use anti squeal spray - the stuff is evil

there are repair manuals on line (or PM me and i can send a pdf) which give the how-to steps

<edit> make sure you chock the wheels and use jack stands please

All in all takes 1.5 hours after the first time mostly due to jacking, removing wheels and stuff. Budget a good afternoon for the first time
but it beats spending $1600 for a couple hundred in parts and your time.

This is the last kit i used ... http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8849AK
had everything you needed - nothing fancy

 

[Eniam17]

Thanks guys, very helpful. I have a friend who is a mechanic and is helping me so I think we will be in good shape. Appreciate the responses.

 

[A.J.M]

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4184

You owe me a pint.

Print off the PDF 1.6a and enjoy.

 

[johnsoax]

"basically the same after that then retention the parking brake (snug tight then back off 3 clicks) "

The proper way to do the parking brake is WAY more complicated than that.....

Use Bodsy's Brake Bible, posted above. That was how I changed mine.

New Raybestos 980351 rotors and Wagner QC1098 Pads for the front, and Raybestos 980345 rotors and Wagner QC1099 Pads for the rear.

 

[Campndad]

Its an easy job to do with a friend. I changed mine over to the slotted and EBC pads when the original set went bad at about 18K. Still have the same slotted rotors after 60K miles and have gotten 30K out of each of my brake pads, probably could have gotten 5k more on them, but swapped them out each time before a big trip.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8849EBCK
Here is what helped me. http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=47050

 

[Colin Hughes]

www.xtremestop.com These rotors and pads are made in Canada (not China) but there are warehouses throughout NA so can be shipped to a US address without additional international shipping, brokerage, etc. The shop I help out with has been putting them on Land Rover vehicles for the last few months and customers seem quite happy with them. I can check pricing if anyone has an interest. Just pm me.

 

[Eniam17]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the quick responses and all the info. I have a good friend who is a tech helping me so I should be in good shape. Thanks again