LR3 Drivers Door Lock Issues....NO WORKIE

[bluetick82]

Hey All,

2005 LR3, When I bought the car about 18 months ago the drivers door lock wouldn't work with the FOB or the manual lock. So I replaced the door lock actuator, not a fun job with average sized hands due to the tight spaces. Everything worked find for several months but eventually started to make a loud CLUNK noise on locking and unlocking. A few weeks ago I noticed that the drivers door wouldn't lock along with the rest of the doors and the loud CLUCK had gone away. I pulled the door card off today to see if there was anything obvious and all the linkage looked fine, although I didn't pull the window off and inspect the actuator. I've read that sometime low FOB batteries can be an issue, but all the other doors work fine. Also assume that the fuse is fine due to all the other doors working without issue. I really perfer to not pull the actuator out again.

Any thoughts?

 

[Victory_Overland]

Do you have a GAP Tool? If so try and do a code scan and then you can also do a CCF change which will reset the ECU, lock and unlock all the doors, etc... and clear the memory. I had a door lock that wasn't working right and noticed after I did the CCF change on the TPMS my door locks worked fine.

Not saying this will work, but for some reason it loosened up the actuator and had no issues since.

Could be worth a shot!

 

[bluetick82]

I do have a gap tool. I'll give it a shot. Never done a ccf change. Could you elaborate?

 

[soflorovers]

Hey All,

2005 LR3, When I bought the car about 18 months ago the drivers door lock wouldn't work with the FOB or the manual lock. So I replaced the door lock actuator, not a fun job with average sized hands due to the tight spaces. Everything worked find for several months but eventually started to make a loud CLUNK noise on locking and unlocking. A few weeks ago I noticed that the drivers door wouldn't lock along with the rest of the doors and the loud CLUCK had gone away. I pulled the door card off today to see if there was anything obvious and all the linkage looked fine, although I didn't pull the window off and inspect the actuator. I've read that sometime low FOB batteries can be an issue, but all the other doors work fine. Also assume that the fuse is fine due to all the other doors working without issue. I really perfer to not pull the actuator out again.

Any thoughts?

Perhaps I'm just dense...but, the driver's door will never lock manually. The only way to lock the driver's door is via the fob or through the lock button on the dash. If you open the driver's door and try to lock it and then close it, the truck will unlock itself. My key fob is currently dead and the only way to lock the truck is by hitting the lock button via the passenger door and then closing the passenger door; doing so will not enable the alarm so you're kinda SOL in terms of anti-theft. I know this doesn't answer your question, but it does provide you with a temporary solution.

 

[bluetick82]

The cover on the driver's door handle pops of to revel a manual lock key hole.