LR3 OEM Locker intsall, is it possible?

[kissmywassp]

So I have an LR3, my only true love to date. I have found someone parting out an HD LR3 and he has said he could sell me the locker for $700 including shipping. I have other mods I planned on doing and a locker was never really one of them as the ARBs are pricey and as most suggest not really needed for our beasts as they are so good as they are, but now that I have came across this for this price, I want to know can it even be done? I read a little bit on someone asking this on a different LR forum and saw a couple differing of opinions, so I figured I'd ask the pros. Thanks for any info

Colby Stanford
19 Yr Old LR3 Owner (Lucy)
Currently have:
Baja Rack
Cooper STT Pro, with matte gray plasti dipped OE 10 spoke
4 Black magic Hellas on the rack
dual battery

 

[Victory_Overland]

I'm no expert on the process but from what I know its a beast of a job for a non-LR3 to a HD-LR3. I was told once, but can't confirm that an LR4 is easy because its wired already and a flash gets you the software needed to coincide with the EAS/Traction Control. I do not have a locker in my LR3 and from what my uses are, if I needed one, I think I'm already too deep into something I shouldn't be in the first place. Slow and steady has gotten me out of everything I have needed, even when I made some big mistakes on going down something I was too heavy (fully loaded with RTT and top heavy) to get back up.......EAS/Traction control did the job for me. When I was stuck, a locker would not have gotten me out anyway.

I guess my point is, what do you find yourself getting into with your rig where a locker is going to pay for itself over underbody protection and maybe a rear carrier set up would suite better for your $700? If you believe your uses warrant a locker, then hell yeah jump on it but the $700 is about the factory option cost without the work you have to put into the rig to make it work. I'd expect lots of time and more money than a factory option so at that point, ARB might be a better choice as you have a known good differential in the truck.

I would spend the $700 on a GAP Tool and the remainder toward sliders first. If you need a locker, you definitely need protection first or you are going to regret not having the winch or tow strap to drag your busted rig off the trail/rocks and all the way to the tow truck site.

I do not like to chime in on talking people out of things, but many members have saved me a lot of time and money with sound recommendations for useful and mandatory trail upgrades; I am just trying to share the wealth is all.

Best wishes on your choice and Rover on my friend! :smiley_drive:

 

[kissmywassp]

I'm no expert on the process but from what I know its a beast of a job for a non-LR3 to a HD-LR3. I was told once, but can't confirm that an LR4 is easy because its wired already and a flash gets you the software needed to coincide with the EAS/Traction Control. I do not have a locker in my LR3 and from what my uses are, if I needed one, I think I'm already too deep into something I shouldn't be in the first place. Slow and steady has gotten me out of everything I have needed, even when I made some big mistakes on going down something I was too heavy (fully loaded with RTT and top heavy) to get back up.......EAS/Traction control did the job for me. When I was stuck, a locker would not have gotten me out anyway.

I guess my point is, what do you find yourself getting into with your rig where a locker is going to pay for itself over underbody protection and maybe a rear carrier set up would suite better for your $700? If you believe your uses warrant a locker, then hell yeah jump on it but the $700 is about the factory option cost without the work you have to put into the rig to make it work. I'd expect lots of time and more money than a factory option so at that point, ARB might be a better choice as you have a known good differential in the truck.

I would spend the $700 on a GAP Tool and the remainder toward sliders first. If you need a locker, you definitely need protection first or you are going to regret not having the winch or tow strap to drag your busted rig off the trail/rocks and all the way to the tow truck site.

I do not like to chime in on talking people out of things, but many members have saved me a lot of time and money with sound recommendations for useful and mandatory trail upgrades; I am just trying to share the wealth is all.

Best wishes on your choice and Rover on my friend! :smiley_drive:

Thank you very much for the reply and "talking me out of it" isn't negative at all, was seeking advice and good advice was given. Have been on the lookout for sliders for a bit now, and spare tire carrier, just waiting on the right time

 

[Victory_Overland]

Thank you very much for the reply and "talking me out of it" isn't negative at all, was seeking advice and good advice was given. Have been on the lookout for sliders for a bit now, and spare tire carrier, just waiting on the right time

No worries at all. There are many more on here with much more technical experience on the task that might chime in with more accurate info. If I blow my diff, it might be good information to know as an upgrade then so I'll surely be paying attention because I think its a great thread to learn from.

Rover on! :smiley_drive:

 

[Ray_G]

My understanding for the LR3 is that you will need to wire in the loom to the e-dif and then somehow reprogram the vehicle in its new configuration which is something that, allegedly, the dealer can't even do so you'd have to get creative there likely with an aftermarket solution.

Or put another way; it may be time and cost intensive after the immediate cost of the hardware.

As discussed by our Hawaiian colleague a serious examination of the overall cost/benefit of having the locker for your intended usage is worthwhile. I'd note that over on my build thread when we were doing the side by side comparison of an EAS truck (with a locker) and my now coil sprung truck it was apparent that in some discreet situations the locker was the difference in where my counterpart's truck could get itself unstuck and, in theory, I could not-but that was a deliberate effort to get into multiple wheels off the ground articulations with little/no momentum & deliberate choice of a bad line to facilitate.

Or put another way; no way I'd wheel the truck like that intentionally.

That said, is the locker as a traction aid in something as heavy as a D3 or D4 very useful to make for less skinny pedal extraction (less violence of action = less chance of heavy vehicle breaking itself amidst the drama, or in the terms folks in my line of business use-have mechanical sympathy as much as possible to preserve for the times you can't); of course a locker is good.

But good tires are the first step. Right behind that armor as needed on critical components, and after that I'd say a winch. Then traction aids...

But that's my $.02.
r-
Ray

 

[kissmywassp]

Thank you for the reply! I will probably stick to going for the winch & skid plates next.

 

[morrisdl]

I have an LR3 with ARB rear Locker. I agree with all said above about priorities, even though Im lacking the winch. I have been ridding with HD-LR3's and the way it walked less strenuously over obstacles convinced me to add a rear locker. It works exactly as I hoped. The HD conversion and ARB were even in price. I chose an LR3 with aftermarket NAV, so OEM HD wasn't ever really an option for me. All things being equal, I also preferred the manual control of the ARB. Let me know if you have any questions.



More pics mod history here: https://goo.gl/photos/2C3kHx515pRC7GSg9
Some vids here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbJs1cTgNYLjq6gzSFXfpU8eZu21k6xvY

 

[Victory_Overland]

One other thing to think about is that the LR3 with the factory rear locker has beefier rear axles/halfshafts. Since I guess others are running ARB lockers with the smaller axles and haven't reported any issues, it may not be a problem or necessary to swap them (assuming they are the same length and bolt pattern), but just keep in mind that LR designed them larger on the locked diff for a reason.

That's good info. I can't imagine the axles are different lengths but I wonder if the inner splines are different size and spline count?

 

[Ray_G]

One other thing to think about is that the LR3 with the factory rear locker has beefier rear axles/halfshafts. Since I guess others are running ARB lockers with the smaller axles and haven't reported any issues, it may not be a problem or necessary to swap them (assuming they are the same length and bolt pattern), but just keep in mind that LR designed them larger on the locked diff for a reason.

This is a first heard for me; do you have the different part numbers between an HD model half shaft and the standard?

Given how the HD package locker works I'd be surprised if LR beefed up the rear axle since it is progressive and rapidly reverts.

 

[rlynch356]

Can this claim be verified with part numbers? I'm curious... I have an HD, but if there is a stronger bit I'd be interested to know. It could probably be retro fitted to a non HD truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[morrisdl]

I have seen a non-HD LR3 (without ARB locker) break rear drive shaft on local trails. So it can happen. The HD-LR3s turn the locker on/off frequently and no predicting if it happens while a wheel is spinning. That might be the need for beefier shafts. I always turn on my ARB locker proactively to reduce drivetrain stress. The ARB locker reduces frequent traction control 1/4 turn wheel spins and reduces the need for throttle. The oem HD locker does too. Thanks for the part numbers. If I break one, Ill upgrade. Lockers or not, Im sure the bigger tires are not helping.

 

[Blueboy]

Then traction aids...

For me, I consider my winch as a traction aid

 

[kissmywassp]

Hello there. Brining up an old thread I made, as I do now have a blown rear Diff. So online I am able to find the following for a reasonable price: locking rear axles/ shafts, locking diff ECU module, & locking rear diff. What, if anything, else would be needed to convert from non- HD to HD. All parts discussed are going to be OEM. Also can anyone confirm the difficulty of these being installed, compared to just installing a new (non-locking) diff. Also not really trying to debate wether or not my off road use dictates a locker, or some parts that I should buy instead Just simply want to know what is needed for the OEM locker to work properly, how much extra work it will be for these additional parts to be installed. Thanks expo ers

 

[Victory_Overland]

I believe I remember correctly that if you have non navigation it’s a direct bolt up and the Gap tool configuration but I could be wrong on this. I believe the harness is there for the electronic locker connector or capped off I would assume as most harnesses/connectors on vehicles are the same, they just don’t have the accessory or configuration in the ECU.

Don’t blame you, I’ll put lockers in at rebuild as well....most likely got the ARB route though. Just not worth the squeeze for me until I need a rebuild like you.

 

[kissmywassp]

Thanks for the quick reply! So I do have the HSE model with NAV. On eBay the locking vs non locking Diff. Prices are very similar. So it just comes down to if I want to pay more for the axels, & ECU module I assume? But basically you are saying that I should be good to go with the above listed additional parts correct? Having the locker function working with the 4x4 info screen to see when engaged would be nice, but not a deal breaker as long as the locker will engage when the computer thinks I need it. Probably going to check the ARB prices as well. Just weighing my options currently