LR3 PM for latent "flatbed" breakdowns

[Model97]

Lots of information is available on PM schedules and so forth. I've had a bad run of tow-away breakdowns recently and want to focus on getting other known issues of that nature squared away. What other issues are laying in wait?? Three in 6 months included: Positive wiring harness octopus failed; alternator failed, plastic t'stat housing cracked while on vacation. I have a new little plastic coolant bleeder Tee that will go in this week, I've read about those stranding people. I'm not looking for the slow-wear stuff, have my arms around those (EAS manifolds, desiccant, air shocks, Trans / diff / trans case fluid, belts, etc.) . I have 125K on it, runs very well when it runs, if you know what I mean.

 

[Colin Hughes]

Where do you live? My biggest issue with the LR3 was the Can-bus wiring that runs behind the rear drivers side wheel and is exposed to water and especially road salt. Salt would get in, corrode a couple of wires, short them out, down to bump stops. LR added a condom like sleeve to put over the wires. I added dialectic grease, taped the hell out of them, added the sleeve, taped it again and that seemed to fix the problem ... until the instrument cluster started acting up When I was getting up near 360,000 kms, I swapped the air for coils. And just my luck, the EAS over-ride box from AB was defective. The bells, lights and whistles still all came on but with coils, I could at least still drive

 

[Model97]

Where do you live? My biggest issue with the LR3 was the Can-bus wiring that runs behind the rear drivers side wheel and is exposed to water and especially road salt. Salt would get in, corrode a couple of wires, short them out, down to bump stops. LR added a condom like sleeve to put over the wires. I added dialectic grease, taped the hell out of them, added the sleeve, taped it again and that seemed to fix the problem ... until the instrument cluster started acting up When I was getting up near 360,000 kms, I swapped the air for coils. And just my luck, the EAS over-ride box from AB was defective. The bells, lights and whistles still all came on but with coils, I could at least still drive

Thanks, I am in Michigan US so road salt is in play. It was originally bought in Canada and from the underside corrosion (I should have checked that better) I'm guessing it was driven near salt water. I'll check those. I have one bad air strut and am figuring out whether to stay with air or just go coils.