LR4 Brake Bleed

[dsm02c]

Truck is at 60k now and per the LR passport to service its time to change the soft brake hoses. I have yet to acquire the hoses but am preparing to complete the procedure.

My main question is wether or not you need a diagnostic tool to bleed the brake system on the LR4? TOPIX, of course says you need to do a complete bleed if you remove anything north of the hydraulic control unit, I just want to change the lines, is there some reason my regular pressure bleeder wouldn't work? I've reached out to a non forum sponsor who I have bought some parts from but have not heard back.

Any thoughts? I know there is mention of needed to "flutter" the ABS solenoids, I've also reached out to GAP as the IIDTOOL does not have this functionality yet, Patrick has stated it is under development and they have a BETA firmware for it but his question came along with wether I changed the master cylinder... Which leads me to further question if the icarsoft LrII or faultmate tool is needed for simply swapping lines, or just waiting for IIDTOOL to have this functionality, or not needed at all...

UPDATE: Just spoke with Doug from Atlantic Bristish and you can bleed the LR4 just like any other vehicle. I'm using the motive products power bleeder they sell.

I could not find any info on brake bleeding on the LR4 other than TOPIX, hence the reason for this post.

 

[DiscoDavis]

No clue sorry, but isn't your truck still under warranty or does the normal period end at 50K? Also, the service interval for those is 60k??? :Wow1:

 

[dsm02c]

It's an early 2010, it's not there on mileage but is on time... I assume the cost for LR to do it is ridiculous, and brake fluid is some nasty stuff when it's been in there for a long time... With how much work the braking system does on these things (off road, and on) I think it's a good idea to keep it in top shape...

 

[Red90]

Flushing fluid sure... That should be done every two years on all vehicles. But changing the brake lines?

 

[DiscoDavis]

If its out of warranty then I guess do it yourself. I can't speak for what the D4 needs but most of the D3's go way longer with the original lines in place and just flush/bleed the fluid every once in a while. Thanks for posting Doug's response, and post back here with results when you get it done!

 

[sunrisehiker]

Brake lines ? 10 years man, ..

 

[ColoDisco]

I'm a LR tech and this is the first I've heard of replacing the soft line on a LR4 at 60k. I can say there is a campaign for some newer range rovers for brake lines. I will look into it at work and repost.

 

[MKE Rover]

Soft brake lines

On the soft hoses thing I found bubbles in both rear lines, when I changed the rear pads on my 2010 LR4 V8 with 60k on the odometer
Bought the new lines to fix the problem, but was wondering the same thing about bleeding the system after replacing the hoses. Do you really need a scan tool to do the bleed procedure? Can't figure out how to post pictures on this message. I'd like to post the pictures of the bubbles lines.

 

[dsm02c]

On the soft hoses thing I found bubbles in both rear lines, when I changed the rear pads on my 2010 LR4 V8 with 60k on the odometer
Bought the new lines to fix the problem, but was wondering the same thing about bleeding the system after replacing the hoses. Do you really need a scan tool to do the bleed procedure? Can't figure out how to post pictures on this message. I'd like to post the pictures of the bubbles lines.

You DO NOT need anything special to bleed the brakes. I have drive 7k miles and used the terrain response features to great success after bleeding.

I used the motive power bleeder and it made bleeding a snap.

 

[Victory_Overland]

I just ordered the V6 kit for my 17" wheel mod from AB, and it comes with new lines. I'm at 94k on the OG lines with no issues. I'll replace the lines with the new kit since the entire suspension and brakes will be brand new, flush the old brake lines out, put them in a bag and on the shelf as an emergency trail spare.

60K is a complete liability, cover your ***** plan from LR like most manufacturers. Inspect your lines, if they are soft and bubbly or brittle, change all at once. If they are in great shape, add them to your inspect list for your 3k tire rotation plan or whatever personal inspection plan you have. Also, rubber lines break down from the inside, so check your fluid and if you see debri in there, that is usually the culprit. If the fluid is regularly serviced with no debri, it's a good indication of a healthy system.

Just remember if it's a warranty item, get it done. If you are on your inspection plan with no warranty, a smart budget needs to be in play, or it'll break your bank swapping everything at specific intervals if it's not needed. If you sell it and say you maintained per LR specs, just make sure you disclose it to the buyer that you didn't swap brake lines or whatever else you haven't done, that's just safe and professional.

Good luck, Rover on my friend! :smiley_drive:

 

[jymmiejamz]

I'm a LR tech and this is the first I've heard of replacing the soft line on a LR4 at 60k.

So what are you doing when a vehicle comes in for a 6year/90k service?

 

[SHS14]

You DO NOT need anything special to bleed the brakes. I have drive 7k miles and used the terrain response features to great success after bleeding.

I used the motive power bleeder and it made bleeding a snap.

Did you have the vehicle running like the manual says to do? Or did you just pressurize the bottle and bleed each corner? Thanks!


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[dsm02c]

Did you have the vehicle running like the manual says to do? Or did you just pressurize the bottle and bleed each corner? Thanks!

I did bleed with the engine running up completely on jackstands.

 

[SHS14]

Okay, thanks. I'm going to wait a bit more. My fluid is clear still and I'm not quite at 60k miles.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Okay, thanks. I'm going to wait a bit more. My fluid is clear still and I'm not quite at 60k miles.

I didn't see it below, but check your parking brake rigging and actuator while you are at it. LR3/4 PB actuator is an expensive fix if not properly maintained and adjusted. Just another thing to look at while you are doing brakes and on the stands. I have to dig up notes on the process again when I do my V6 brake mod one of these days.

Either way, you will not get a fully solid brake without the rig running and the powerbrake booster so you have to start it anyway. When I did mine, I bled the brakes, started it, cycled the system a few times, check the resevoir, shut it off and bled them again. Probabably overkill, but once its on the stands, why not? I hate brake jobs so I try to only have to go through that mess once...haha