LR4 multi purpose duty

wildorange

Observer
@ar4me

Now I’ve seen your curved bar I’m curious to see how a single bank rather than double will fit.

And compare the light output too.


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ar4me

Adventurer
Beside the 50" curved bar I also added two rear lights for setting up camp in the dark, etc.
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Thanks to Abran for suggesting switches (I didn't like what came with the lights) and for suggesting switch location in the overhead console
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I wanted to be able to turn on lights with the car completely off, and powered the lights from the secondary battery, yet I wanted the back light in the rocker switches to come on with the other interior back-lit switches when headlights are on. That is possible with the 5-pin rocker switches. I stole back-light power from the wiring to the sunroof switch right next to the rocker switches.
 
Woot Woot....those are some epic photos and sounds like a great trip.

Also, I would disregard the CEL.....well not disregard, but consider that the CEL is NOT related to your aux fuel tank install. I've been getting some random CEL for bank and evap at less than 1/4 tank, higher RPMs (highway speeds), going over higher altitudes or when the engine is under heavy loads. Don't ask me why I'm just telling you that I keep a log and the conditions of all four CEL over the last 6 months have been the exact same condition.

Just food for thought for something for you to monitor.
 

ar4me

Adventurer
@ar4me where'd you run the wiring for those rear lights? I'm about to do the same thing and am trying to figure out the best route.
The ground for each is at nearest rack bolt, the power runs from right rear to left rear inside top cross member (lift off rubber trim piece), and the two power wires are soldered together, and the single power wire runs forward inside the top left side rail of the roof rack, and then down under the left A-pillar side trim. Relay is inside box with my secondary battery, and switch is in overhead console.
 

zelatore

Explorer
Excellent idea for switch placement. I'd never considered that! Likely because I never even look up there as I don't use the sunroof. (may actually cover it over with steel for a good antenna mounting point)
 
Excellent idea for switch placement. I'd never considered that! Likely because I never even look up there as I don't use the sunroof. (may actually cover it over with steel for a good antenna mounting point)

Couldn't agree more! I can count on one hand how many times my roof has been open, and one finger on how many times by brother opened it! hahaha, I was like "hey man, how many times have I told you that the moonroof stays closed, always?!?!" I actually plan to replace the seals and close it up again for another 10 years. It's a great place for the suction cup GoPro mount or to hang the suction cup Ipad mount for movie time when I'm sleeping in the back.
 

ar4me

Adventurer
You have to dremel out "unnecessary" support material on the back. The opposite side of the sunroof switch has the microphone for the handsfree operation. I wanted to keep my sunroof operational although I have only ever opened it once - after this modification to ensure it still works :) I know Abran has mounted a row of rocker switches (maybe 6 or so) across the entire overhead console - that's why I ended up putting mine in the overhead console too.
 

ar4me

Adventurer
I spent the weekend taking off my OEM (cosmetic) "sliders" that were a bit bent up after Elephant Hill and Bobby's Hole last summer in the Needles District of Canyonlands as well as a few other trips with squeezes. They had clearly done some duty, but don't really seem built for even light duty - I don't really do any rock crawling, but I do want to be able to get up and over the occasional challenging obstacle to get to remote or special places. I don't feel I need full underneath armor given the weight it adds etc. I had seen Abran's Bearmach sliders on his LR3 and felt they were a good compromise along with the Prospeed compressor guard for what I do. The craftsmanship and fit looked great.

With Abran's help I had gotten my hands on a set of Bearmach sliders and a Prospeed compressor guard and installed it over the weekend. Since my car is from 2010 and has 106k miles on it, I was considering replacing the compressor as preventive maintenance for extra piece of mind when we go to very remote areas - The Maze District is on the agenda... I took out the old compressor, and after clearing the label from dust I was happy to find that the AMK compressor had a manufacturing date of April 25, 2014, and hence must have been replaced shortly before we bought the car with about 72k miles on it. So, back in it went, and the Bearmachs and Prospeed guard on. All pretty straightforward, and I am happy with the result - great fit and finish. I was debating whether to put the anti-slip abrasive tape on the sliders or leave it off, but figured it would be nice when loading or accessing the roof rack.
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ar4me

Adventurer
Since there has been a few PMs asking for details on the tire carrier I figured I will just post a bunch of pictures with dimensions here. Keep in mind that every one is a one off, and tack pieces into place using a level etc. Don’t just weld pieces together on the ground. If I had to redo it I would lean the tire back a bit more to get it even more flush with the car, and possibly raise it a tad. Though, each to his own...
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