I can't vouch for the hub exchange but I ended up swapping out the whole axle, with brakes, for about $360.
I matched the old axle exactly, which is 3" diameter, and carefully cut off the spring perches and welded everything back together.
I had never done anything like this before, so I was running pretty scared, but it actually was very easy, and a direct bolt up.
I did it on a M116A2, which for all intents and purposes, is the same frame as a M101A2
Pat
I am in the process of doing this for my M101. Putting in new hubs to match the jeep and keeping the parking brake. Think it is going to run me around 130 cdn funds. I am getting my parts from a trailer repair and supply store.
If you could do it for 60 go for it and I should come your way to buy my parts :smiley_drive:
Oh yeah, you will need a 1.5" socket for the nut on the hub.
I can't find the right hubs. The ones I found that will fit it are 6x5.5 due to the bearing size
I'll look up the spindle size later. Basically it was driven by the bearing size. I think this is the one, but not sure right now.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/Dexter/42655UC1.html
FWIW, I ordered these hubs to do a hub replacement on an M101A2 axle with 8 lug wheels. The goal was to go from 8 lug down to 6 lug so I could use my stock Toyota wheels on the trailer. While the inner bearing and grease seal were correct, the inner bearing was incorrect. My trailer requires a 2585 outer bearing. This hub from etrailer uses a 15123 bearing which has a 1.250 I.D. where the trailer has a 1.313 O.D. on the spindle. Etrailer tried to help me find a hub that would work but they just didn't have anything that would fit. So alas I'm sending these back.
If you are a machinest, you could pull the race from the hub and bore out the hub to the correct size and put in a 2585 bearing and race but i'm no engineer and couldn't tell you if this would structurally change the strength of the hub.
Bart