My to do list is done.

ZooJunkie

Explorer
Over the weekend I replaced my outer cv boots and added more suspension travel to the front, and tonight I added more clearance to the rear.

First, replacing CV boots are a PITA. Each side took me about roughly 6 hours to do. The first side took the longest, as I wasn't quite sure which way was the best way, and so ended removing too much stuff off my truck! :oops: Did a ball joint flip, that was easy, so far I haven't cranked up the torsion bars yet, and it doesn't ride that bad. I need to run down to PepBoys and pick up a shorter bump stop.

Speaking of PepBoys, I picked up these gems for $10 each, Coil Spring booster, which I used as my new top hat. That work nice! I immediately saw a nice change in my ride, not as bouncy and it's more stable at speed! $20! Woot. I was debating on buying these: http://www.independent4x.com/item.html?UCIDs=839915%7C1100654&PRID=1211881
Though probably not as high quality, they work! Plus I get to pocket $80 for some other part. :chowtime:

So on with some pics of my rear coil spring booster installation.
1st pic, comparison between OEM and PepBoys. Breather tube! This thing exits through our chassis cross member! Nice touch Isuzu.

Oh, I still have SS lines to install from Ind4x4. Darn.
 
Last edited:

jackerwho?

New member
new to forum

G'day mate,

Im from Australia and just joined the forum, hope to chat to all of you soon. I have a holden jackeroo (isuzu trooper). I am hoping to do some more mods to it too. I already put a lift kit on it and would like to do more. I want to fit 33" tyres on it now but I dont know if I can put 10.5 wide or 12.5 wide tyres on it any advice for me ??

Hope to share photos with all of you and chat, thanks.
 

AKTrooper

Observer
CV Boot replacement questions

I have this same job in front of me as the outer CV boot on my 1998 Trooper is completely shot and the inner looks like it's going to go any day. I would appreciate any words of wisdom as I begin this job and please keep in mind, I have never done a job like this before. I also plan to replace the ball joints, tie rod sends and sway bar bushings while I am this deep into the front end.

Thanks,

Dennis
 

ZooJunkie

Explorer
Get ready for about 6-7 hours per axle. Get some tools ready too. Get yourself a pair of CV boot banding tool. If you have Independence4x4 CV kit, you won't have to remove the axle from the engine side. If you don't have their kit, you'll have to remove the axle from the engine side to get to the inner cv boot.

Remove the front axle hub, by removing the upper and lower ball joint. You won't need to dislodge the lower ball joint, just unbolted it from the a-arm. The upper ball joint you can knock it out since you're replacing those as well.

There is a circlip holding the cv shaft on the engine side, you'll need to pry this off before you can't pull out your cv shaft. From the hub side, you'll need to remove your locking hubs and the e-clip holding it in place. Make sure when you are putting everything back together, all parts are clean and well greased. You don't want to put a dirty shaft into a clean hole.
 

AKTrooper

Observer
Thanks for the information

Given your excellent advise, I will purchase the Independent 4X4 CV boot install kit and skip the inner CV joint disassembly process. Other than the CV boot band tool, are any other specialty tools required? I have working set of standard tools but was wondering if a special removal tool was needed for the old tie rod ends or lower ball joints. I borrowed a pickel fork just for the lowers in case they were stuck in place. Thanks.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,711
Messages
2,889,206
Members
226,872
Latest member
Supreet.dhaliwal
Top