New Ride: Subaru Forester

[a.mus.ed]

After a long search for a replacement for my wife's 2005 Honda Accord (payments suck), I've finally found the right vehicle: 2001 Subaru Forester L 5spd.

I got her for a steal with 145k miles, and good maintenance history. She's not perfect (looks a lot better in the pictures than from 5 feet away), but not bad either. I'm enjoying driving a manual again, after three years with none in the stable.

Not sure how much attention she'll get in the mod territory as the 80 takes care of everything I need (though a bit thirsty). I will be looking for some tires soon, and I have a small list of maintenance items to get through:

1. 1. Adjust clutch: done
2. 2. Replace u-joints (driveshaft?)
3. 3. Keep an eye/nose out for the burning gear oil that I noticed after the first couple of drives: seems to have cleared up, but was coming from the transmission and leaking onto the exhaust.

I know someone has mentioned it on here before, but I'm also looking for a good Subaru forum along the lines of ExPo/Mud. If anyone has tips on this model, feel free to speak up!

 

[Pedro]

www.dirtyimpreza.com they deal with everything that isn't a lowered or slammed subaru.

1: how did you adjust the clutch. I believe that they are hydraulic like the impreza

2: What is the symptom that is leading you to this conclusion. It could be either a simple CV in the halfshafts or a bigger problem with the center diff.

3: where is the oil coming from? The transmissions don't leak very often. If it is coming from the bellhousing, it is probably a silly plastic oil plate on the back of the engine.

 

[a.mus.ed]

Hey Pedro -

1. On this model, at least, there is a screw type adjustment above the gas pedal. If you lie on your back in the driver's footwell, and look up while moving the clutch pedal, you should be able to spot it. I loosened the lock nut, and turned the screw.

2. There is a vibration under throttle at speeds above 40 mph, coasting or accelerating. I don't really know for sure if the u-joints or shaft is the problem, but that is what the PO said they had been told by their mechanic. I haven't looked into it yet, but I will be digging in soon so I'm looking for any suggestions.

3. The clutch was replaced pretty recently, the working theory I and a couple of my more mechanically inclined friends have is that they overfilled the tranny when they finished the job and it was self-levelling. Now that it seems to have stopped, I was guessing that may have been correct. The residue shows it coming from the general area back there, and after a very scientific rubbing between our fingers and smelling we decided it was definitely gear oil. We also thought it's possible that the driveline vibration could have come from the clutch replacement job, too, if the shaft was reinstalled incorrectly.

Thanks for the tip on the forum - I'll definitely be checking it out.

 

[Pedro]

interesting on the pedal. I will pop my head under the dash and check out my impreza.

The vibration could be a wheel bearing or they might have dropped the tailshaft of the trans when they did the clutch. also CV's could be going. Check for fore/aft play on the half shafts front and rear first. or in the simplest, it oould be a bent wheel (I had this and chased everything to fix it)

The leak could very possibly be an overfill if it is that far back.


Other than that, enjoy it. oh and get yourself a skid plate from either www.rallyarmor.com or http://www.get-primitive.com/. mine has saved me an oilpan and more so far.

 

[abeaudin1971]

I second Pedro - check your halfshafts first before considering swapping the driveshaft itself - I tried the driveshaft (and it wasn't cheap) and the vibration ended up being the front right half shaft (very inexpensive)

 

[a.mus.ed]

Thanks for the replies.
I pulled the shaft and checked the u-joints. One was a little stiff, and one was trashed. Dealer price is unreal - $842!!! I ordered an aftermarket version with replaceable u-joints for ~$450. Should be here Friday, and I'll have it back in 20 minutes after I get it to make sure I made the right fix.

 

[E.J.]

I know someone has mentioned it on here before, but I'm also looking for a good Subaru forum along the lines of ExPo/Mud. If anyone has tips on this model, feel free to speak up!

Awesome, another ExPo Foz :smiley_drive: Check out http://offroadsubarus.com/ for expo style stuff and http://www.subaruforester.org/ for Forester specific stuff.

 

[a.mus.ed]

New driveshaft came in yesterday with replaceable and greaseable ujoints x3. I put it in right away and the vibration is gone.

When I was inspecting the car pre-purchase the PO told me about the driveshaft - that her mechanic had told her it would be $500 to fix it - and that this was the reason she was selling so cheap. I commented to my wife that I could fix the problem a lot cheaper than $500. My wife was doubtful. However, I now have the receipt to prove it - total cost out the door to fix the vibrating driveline? $498.59. Boom. I showed her.

 

[Pedro]

haha good work.

where did you get the driveshaft?

 

[a.mus.ed]

Well, I went through a local shop. Couldn't find anything on my own. He mentioned the place he was buying from is in California, and that made it the day he ordered it. More than that, I don't know.

 

[a.mus.ed]

Well, the new girl wouldn't start today. I think the alternator's had it, as it made a big fussy noise once or twice in the last week. I'll be checking it out, and hopefully replacing it soon.

In other news, I really like driving the car. I'm very happy with it, and still have lots of room to spend on it before I even hit low blue book value.

 

[a.mus.ed]

Alternator is still making noise, but the problem was pretty obvious when I looked at the date code on the battery. New one went in, and problems went away - anyone know anything about a noisy alternator?

 

[Pedro]

does it sound like a knock/clunk?

 

[a.mus.ed]

No - very loud metal brush type noise, only when cold.

 

[Pedro]

Just replace it. The reman units are pretty inexpensive, and it is probably the easiest alternator to replace EVER. And I believe you can upgrade to the XT alternator for more amps.