New Roof Rack for Nismo CC

[RakkasanFA]

Here is a pic of the new roof rack I had made by www.blackoutaz.com

It measure 40x52x6

It looks pretty good IMO.

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[CYi5]

Not bad, are there any foam isolators or anything between the actual metal plates and your roof? Integrating a spoiler to the front to help push wind over the tire?

 

[mcm4090]

Looks good. What is the weight limit?

 

[RakkasanFA]

Looks good. What is the weight limit?

I dunno.

The rack itself is pretty sturdy. I stood on it and it before installing it.

It held up pretty well this weekend. I really don't know the answer but it is far less than what I will be putting up there. I would think the roof would fail before the rack itself did.

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[RakkasanFA]

Not bad, are there any foam isolators or anything between the actual metal plates and your roof? Integrating a spoiler to the front to help push wind over the tire?

Sorry for late reply. What I did was put 1/4" foam pads under the legs. They are basically anti-skid pads you put under furniture. They were perfect and I cut them down to fit. That keeps the metal from scraping the roof.

I also went to Lowe's and bought a 4.5"x40" piece of plexiglass. I then tinted it and ziptied it to the front. I will take a pic later. It definitely made a difference and cost me about 1/3 of what an aftermarket one would cost.

 

[The BN Guy]

So your rig didn't come with a stock rack? You had to drill the holes?

 

[vengeful]

That's where I got my rack, too.

Absolutely top notch work the guy does.

Here's a picture of my rack with over 1200lbs of cinder blocks, that's 40 blocks!:

 

[RakkasanFA]

So your rig didn't come with a stock rack? You had to drill the holes?

Yes I drilled the holes after careful measuring and dropped in threaded inserts. I bought a kit made by Marson that included the thread setter and threaded inserts.

It was fairly easy except for actually drilling the first hole (my wife thought I was nuts). I used thread locker and silicone to seal the holes. I bolted it up with grade 8 bolts. The thing is sturdy.

The rack bolted right on and looks really good. I get a lot of comments on it.

I still need to wire the lights but I am really dumb when it comes to electrical stuff. I might have to go to a shop or something.

 

[2K54X4]

Let's see some fresh pics. I want to see how the plexiglass came out.

As for the wiring... If I can do it anyone can. I know you pay a little more but just buy a complete light kit (lights , relays, etc.) if you are not sure how to go about it. That takes all the guesswork out of it. You could probably run the wiring through your third brake light if you are hesitant about drilling another hole in your roof.

 

[RakkasanFA]

Let's see some fresh pics. I want to see how the plexiglass came out.

As for the wiring... If I can do it anyone can. I know you pay a little more but just buy a complete light kit (lights , relays, etc.) if you are not sure how to go about it. That takes all the guesswork out of it. You could probably run the wiring through your third brake light if you are hesitant about drilling another hole in your roof.

Do you have some pics of how you ran your lights? I have the PIAA 520s so it has all the wiring though I imagine if I go through the 3rd brake light I will need more.

I will get some new pics up today. There is a definite difference with the wind plexiglass deflector on.

 

[2K54X4]

I went through the leg of my factory roof rack and then drilled a hole in the roof. From there I ran them down the door frame and then under the dashboard. You can then run the wires to the battery through the door and into the engine bay right next to the factory wiring. I have pics of how I did the roof wiring in my build thread. I can get a pic or two of the door area if you need it. Once you look at the area you will get a good idea of how you can run the wiring though. I actually had a harder time removing all of the plastic to run the wiring than I had wiring it. I also had to splice some extra wire to get it to reach so I'm sure you will too.

 

[RakkasanFA]

I went through the leg of my factory roof rack and then drilled a hole in the roof. From there I ran them down the door frame and then under the dashboard. You can then run the wires to the battery through the door and into the engine bay right next to the factory wiring. I have pics of how I did the roof wiring in my build thread. I can get a pic or two of the door area if you need it. Once you look at the area you will get a good idea of how you can run the wiring though. I actually had a harder time removing all of the plastic to run the wiring than I had wiring it. I also had to splice some extra wire to get it to reach so I'm sure you will too.

Any and all pics would be greatly appreciated. I am a very visual person when it comes to truck stuff.

 

[2K54X4]

I'm STILL waiting (impatiently) for my switches to show up, so I don't really have anything to show pics of from the dash on. As soon as I get them wired I can take some pics.

As for the roof wiring I just made sure I wire loomed and electrical taped everything. Both holes I drilled I grommeted and silicone sealed after running the wires through. Then I just made sure I wire tied everything behind the rack so you really can't see any of the wiring from the ground. Here are a couple of pics so you can see what I mean.

I was able to do it this way because of the existing rack. You may be able to drill next to one of your rack legs into the roof and be able to hide it fairly well. If not I hear the third brake light is an option. From there I just had to remove the passenger side sun visor (a clip and then a screw). Then the rest of the pieces down the door frame just snapped off. You can then pull the headliner down enough to get the wiring through the roof and then run it down the door frame all the way to the dash area. With the door open you can see where the factory wiring enters. If you peel that grommet back can run your wiring out then up into the hood area and to the battery.