North to the Whipsaw Trail

turbodb

Well-known member
Whipsaw Trail 1 - Finally Four, We Venture North

Most of the trips I do require a full day - or more - of freeway driving just to reach the trailhead, so you can imagine my delight when we decided to do a trip on the west coast. Sort-of. At least, our meeting location was only four hours away - in the tiny little community of Mazama, WA. From there, we'd head north - to British Columbia, Canada - where we planned to run The Whipsaw Trail and then make our way north and west to Molybdenite Peak - before turning south again for the United States.

It was strange to leave the house in the middle of the afternoon on a Monday, and arrive at a camp location that Mike @Digiratus had arranged for us just as the sun was setting. The weather was pleasant, and we enjoyed ourselves chatting and watching 30 deer stroll by, until Dan @drr showed up around 11:00pm.

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That left only Monte @Blackdawg absent - but he had a much longer drive, some 12 hours or so - and we all went to bed wondering when we'd see him... because though he'd planned to be in Mazama around the same time as Dan, he'd left 12 hours late - at 9:00pm - and now planned to drive through the night. Fun times.

As the morning sun spilled across our tents, Dan's new dog - echo - poked her head out to see what the new day would bring.

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For a while, what it brought was some lounging around and taking it easy - a definite departure from our usual morning greeting and then breakdown of camp. See, I'd gotten a text from Monte, and he predicted an 11:00am arrival, having slept for a solid 90 minutes or so over the entirety of the night. Yuk.

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He was right on time* it turned out, and we were ready to go - the strangeness of this trip, just the beginning of what would be a series of surprises! A quick fuel up, and we aired down as we headed north on the backroads of Washington, toward the tiny town of Nighthawk, and the Canadian border.

* his newly revised, 12-hour late time.

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The trails we traveled for this first part of our journey were reasonably major Forest Service roads, and we made good time - when we were actually moving - which as usual was sporadic, given our frequent photo stops and the ********-chat that accompanies the start of any reunion of friends.

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Now, it should be noted that one of the major topics of conversation was a new addition to Dan's truck - he'd just recently gotten a Go Fast Camper (GFC) and we were all quite interested in how he liked it (and whether we'd admit it or not - wondered if it would be a good addition to our own trucks ? ).

He of course loved it, and it fit great on his 1st gen Tacoma - hugging the top of the cab even closer than it does on later models.

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Making our way north, we passed through miles and miles of burned forest. Burned as part of the 175,184 acre Tripod Complex in 2006, these forests are just now starting to see new growth, most of the young trees 5-7 years old, and under 10' high. It's a trade-off of course - the lack of mature trees allowing for distant views, but those same views are of burned forest.

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The Spur Creek fire - one of the two that merged into the Tripod Complex started on July 3 and was declared fully contained on July 14, 2006. However, another round of lightning storms and high winds caused the fire to jump the lines on July 27, and eventually merge with the Tripod Fire in August. It wasn't until the first snow in October that the fires were finally extinguished - over 3,000 firefighters and a battalion of 550 Army soldiers helping to fight the blaze.

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Eventually, we made our way out of the hills around Loomis - the agriculture of the valley in stark contrast to the landscape we'd traveled through over the course of the last several hours.

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Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...




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turbodb

Well-known member
Whipsaw Trail 2 - Some Winching Necessary

The day had been hot, but it cooled right down overnight - much nicer for sleeping, we all agreed. And sleep we did - it was 8:30am before the last of us finally climbed down from our tents, having missed the sunrise entirely - a cloudless sky transitioning from deep blue to orange, then to pink and finally blue again.

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We all set about making our breakfast - coffee for Mike @Digiratus, cereal for me, an amazing looking breakfast burrito for Dan @drr, and - of course - Donettes for Monte @Blackdawg - as the sun beamed down on us from the east. It was looking to be another beautiful day in British Columbia. :canada:

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Still moving a bit slowly, it wasn't until 10:00am that we had everything cleaned up and stowed away in the trucks, ready to go on our first real day of running the Whipsaw Trail. Somehow I found myself in the front of the pack, a position I've rarely been in with this group as we lined up at the edge of camp. It was time for our morning radio check.

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Screeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeetch.

Mike's radio was clearly not working. It'd been acting up the previous day at various times, but leaving it alone for a few minutes always seemed to fix it. Today, that was not the case. Unsure of the problem, our first attempt to remedy the issue was an antenna trade - Dan trading with Mike to see if it made a difference.

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It didn't. Neither did disconnecting and reconnecting the microphone - something that had sometimes resolved the problem for me when I was having an issue with my CB. Turns out, Mike's been having an issue with his radio for a while, so he's already got a spare one - at home! Something to fix up before the next trip. For now, he decided that the Ham radio would suffice for outbound communication, and he'd listen to the rest of our chatter on the CB. So, we were back into our trucks and on our way, dust kicking up behind us, me happy to be up front and dust free.

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But not for long. It soon became clear that Mike's radio problems weren't over for the day - every time he keyed his Ham radio to speak, Monte and I could hear the keying of the microphone and see the busy signal on our radios, but we couldn't hear him talk at all! We pulled over to evaluate the situation again.

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More fiddling ensued - to no avail. Luckily however, Mike and I both have Kenwood radios - me a Kenwood D710G dual-band ham radio and Mike a Kenwood V71A dual-band ham radio. The base units of these are the same, so hoping that perhaps the problem was in Mike's microphone, we swapped mic's and gave it a try again. It worked great! And we were back underway.

In camp that evening, Mike would disassemble his mic to see if he could fix the issue - and everything looked just fine inside (of course). Putting it all back together and trying it out, it worked! Likely just a loose connection that he reseated somewhere.

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Our first stop along the trail was at an old mill. Marked as a sawmill on our route, closer inspection seemed to suggest that it was actually some sort of mine mill. Water appeared to be funneled downhill - perhaps to power a stamp mill - through a set of chutes, and a nearby structure quite clearly contained thousands of drilled core samples - perhaps to measure the concentration of certain material in the ground.

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The mill thoroughly explored, we were back on the trail - travelling the Whipsaw in a clockwise direction - all of us happy to be off the main logging road at this point and onto something a bit more bumpy, and starting to get a little flexy in places.

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Soon, we came on a second set of structures - these in a bit better condition than the mill. One looked like a log cabin, but on inspection was actually a set of stables (that looked to still be in use); the other was a snow mobile warming hut that had seen much better days, courtesy of local 4x4 clubs who'd left their "mark."

Tread Lightly, Canada.

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A little disappointed, we didn't spend long at these cabins, opting instead to continue on to the third - and I believe last - cabin we had marked on the route.



Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...

Keep reading the rest here
Whipsaw Trail 2 - Some Winching Necessary



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turbodb

Well-known member
Whipsaw Trail 3 - Four, Three Wheeling Tacomas
August 29, 2019.

It was 5:00am or so when I awoke after a shockingly chilly - yet pleasant - night’s sleep. I could see Monte @Blackdawg hanging out behind his truck, waiting for the sunrise from my tent door. Figuring I'd let him enjoy the peaceful solitude, I donned my clothes and made my way to a spot 50' or so away to capture the morning, the colors joyfully doubled by the surface of Wells Lake.


I'd later hear from Monte that I'd been ninja-like in my approach. As he told the story to Dan @drr and Mike @Digiratus, he described completely silent tent zippers, a soundless descent down my ladder, and stealthy steps to my chosen photo location. A few shutter clicks all that betrayed my presence. And then more ninjabilities back into the tent.

I just smiled - no ninja here, but I'm fine with an air of mysteriousness around my movements!


After the colors of the morning, it was a few more hours before the sun was up and we all climbed out of our tents to greet the day. Even the light breeze of the previous evening was gone - Wells Lake now a glassy surface to be enjoyed in the warming air.



Having gotten plenty of the lake the night before, you might expect that we were ready to get moving towards the remainder of the Whipsaw Trail - but, you'd be wrong! Rather, we'd decided that this morning - being Dan's last of the trip - was the perfect morning for us to do a group breakfast. We'd each brought something to contribute, and various folks got to cooking up the bacon, potatoes and eggs that we'd enjoy in our own little paradise, happy for the rare solitude that we'd found here.


It was after 11:00am when we finally pulled out of camp - me somehow in the lead again, and happy to be doing it since it got me out of the dust!


Near the lake, we found ourselves once again navigating the crossword-puzzle trail system, trying to stay on the main line. At any given time, I'd say we stood about a 50% chance of picking the right trail, what with the 3-5 options that were presented to us. Having come down from the high mountain ridges the previous afternoon, we once again found ourselves in a Lodgepole Pine forest, the midday sunlight filtering through the evergreen canopy.


Soon enough, we found ourselves stacked up in the road at small unnamed lake, where we also found the remains of an old pickup. Naturally, we had no idea what tragedy had befallen it so many years before, but we took solace in the fact that perhaps the owner - and definitely many compassionate offroaders since - had taken it out of its misery by shooting it in the head (engine block) as well as just about everywhere else.

We humans are nothing if not destructive.




From there, we carried on in our righty-tighty loop of the Whipsaw, the rough - but not all that difficult - trail mostly dusty except for a few small puddles of water. Unfortunately, the tight corners meant that as we came upon these little gems, our enjoyment of them was limited. And by enjoyment, I mean both speed and splash size.

It was as though our secret had gotten out - we've all become responsible, old, drivers... not wanting to get our trucks muddy. :mudding:




A little over 30 minutes into the morning, we started to climb back up out of the valley in which we'd camped the night before. Here, the trail got steep - a combination of dirt, sand, and rocks - in spots, interesting to navigate. With inclines close to 35 degrees in some places, we picked our way up - careful to take lines that would afford us the most traction. It was great fun and we all enjoyed it immensely - if the grins on our faces were any indication. ::D:



Another half hour or so and we found ourselves at the site of a second pickup! Like the first, this one was trashed - both the the engine block and frame in multiple pieces - as though after flipping it over on it's roof, someone had decided - I think I'll just give this battery powered reciprocating saw a try, in about a dozen places. Classy.


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We'd nearly reached the top of the next ridge by this point, and as we did the landscape changed once again. It's not what I would call the breathtaking glory of the high mountains of the Cascade Range, nor is it the spectacular red rock of Utah - but with the bright blue sky and white clouds, the greens and yellows of the hillsides around us really did seem to sing with joy.

We were lucky to be in such a beautiful place.

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Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...




.
 

turbodb

Well-known member
Whipsaw Trail 4 - My Trip-Ending Discovery

As expected, there wasn't much sunrise to see and we all had a good sleep-in on the edge of Whitehead Reservoir. Turns out it wasn't just the fact that we had a hill to our east, but also the fact that it was reasonably overcast - a few minutes of light rain even falling on our tents about half an hour before 8:00am. Still, I could tell it was going to be a beautiful day.



In no real rush, but also with no reason to hang around, we ate our breakfasts and packed up our stuff. Oh, and we had a discussion about huckleberries - and whether they were a hoax or not - since Mike @Digiratus and Monte @Blackdawg had never seen any! ? We also grabbed a small portion of the cord of firewood that was still remaining and headed west on the trail.


Our destination was Molybdenite Peak - a place I've been wanting to visit for more than two years at this point. With beautiful views and a scree field to traverse, it has all the makings of adventure and excitement that I look for in a trail. For now though, we made our way through more of Canada's evergreen farm, the Lodgepole Pines obviously harvested and re-grown over the years.




The roads here were reasonably well graded - except for a few sections with potholes - and we had a fun time cruising through the corners, dust trailing behind. It did mean a bit wider spacing, but with Ham radios all around, that was no problem at all.



Even at higher speeds, there were plenty of photo stops - Monte often ending up in his trademark pivot around some turn or at the end of some straightaway. I couldn't help but follow suit, which got the desired laughs from Mike as he pulled up on the two goobs.


And then, a trip-changing discovery. As we were wrapping up photos in this exact location - and frankly, as Mike was likely wondering how he could get around us so that he didn't have to put up with our shenanigans - I happened to glance down between the spokes of my rear driver-side wheel... and what I saw took the air out of my sails.

<p style="font-size: 1.75em;">I saw fluid on my brake drums.</p>


Having just dealt with this on the 4Runner the day before leaving on this trip to Canada, I knew what it was immediately - my axle seal had failed, and I was leaking diff oil. It was a no bueno situation.

I keyed up my CB radio and told everyone to hang on a minute while I confirmed what I already knew, and as I stood up from the rear of my truck I raised my hands victoriously above my head for Mike to see. Sarcastically, I boasted, "Guess who get's to install new axle seals again?" which of course he couldn't hear because he was inside his rig with the music pumping away.

I let Monte know as well over the radio, and that was enough to both buds out of their trucks and poking around the rear of mine.

OK - this is where the story morphs a bit, depending on who's telling it. As I recall, I was ready to keep going to Moly Peak - the excursion there adding some 80-100 miles to the length of our trip - with another 300 miles or so to get home. As far as I was concerned, that was probably few enough miles that I wouldn't totally hork the axle bearing, and I could just fix it when I got home. Mike and Monte on the other hand seemed reasonably concerned. Each of them have had axle seals go in the past, and each of them got only a few hundred miles before really starting to tear up their rear end; in Monte's case, requiring a tow by fellow TWers in order to get to a shop where the seals could be changed. Their strong recommendation was that I should head home as soon as possible.

Now, I'm not sure Mike and Monte would say that they really told me that I should go home. To them, it was more like a, "Well, here's what happened to us in the past, you make your own decision."

Whichever way it happened, and perhaps obviously apparent from the title of the post - I did ultimately decide to head home rather than continuing on to Molybdenite Peak. For me, the reasoning was threefold, which I'll capture here just for the sake of posterity:
  1. I'm lucky enough to be able to go on lots of trips - so while it's a bummer that this one is cut short, it's probably better for it to be shortened for me rather than someone else who doesn't get out as much
  2. I had two more trips coming up in less than 10 days after this trip. If I was going to get parts ordered and the seals replaced, I wanted to make sure I had time for everything to arrive from whatever distant Toyota dealership I ordered the parts from!
  3. I had two guys who know more than I do, regaling me with stories of disintegrating axle bearings. And I knew that if there was one thing I didn't want, it was that!
So, we took a look at our maps and found the place where I'd head south - right where our road crossed BC-5 - some 25 miles or so further west. And then, we picked up right where we'd left off - zipping along and having fun in the dirt, stopping frequently for photos and - I'd like to think - to extend the time before we split ways.





At one of our stops, a low-lying chopper flew almost directly overhead - our cameras clicking away like anti-aircraft artillery as we tried to capture it silhouetted against the bright blue sky.


It was I think about six miles from BC-5 that we caught our first glimpse of big-rigs making their way up the grade on the paved surface. Still on dirt, we stopped for what I thought was going to be the last time - mostly to chat a bit, but also to decide that we'd stop once more for lunch before parting ways.


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And so, with only a mile or two until the highway, we pulled over in a trailhead staging area where the pavement began and ate a meal that - just three hours before - none of us thought would be our last of the trip together. I offloaded the remainder of my chocolate chip cookies into Mike's cab - to keep them safe(r) - and aired up my tires.

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Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...

Keep reading the rest here
Whipsaw Trail 4 - My Trip-Ending Discovery



.
 

rfoubi

Observer
Nice photos and writeups as usual. Oh the good old days when our borders were open! Hope you didnt miss the last chance to get up molybdenite. Its currently closed from what I hear, and I havent made it up there yet either. Anyway beauty photos, cheers
 

turbodb

Well-known member
Nice photos and writeups as usual. Oh the good old days when our borders were open! Hope you didnt miss the last chance to get up molybdenite. Its currently closed from what I hear, and I havent made it up there yet either. Anyway beauty photos, cheers
I've eye-balled this trail for some time. Now if I can just find the time to make it there. Nice writeup as always.
Thank you both!

I had no idea Moly was closed - do you have any more info on that?
 

rgallant

Adventurer
Moly is closed as the local band has been fighting with Provincial government for about a decade to limit access and finally had enough as they have not been able to get any traction. Technically it is an illegal closure as it is claimed but not reserve land as I understand it.

Grizzlies are in tough shape in North America although less so in BC and although I hate the closure I get it. That Facebook link covers it pretty well.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Whipsaw Trail 2 - Some Winching Necessary

The day had been hot, but it cooled right down overnight - much nicer for sleeping, we all agreed. And sleep we did - it was 8:30am before the last of us finally climbed down from our tents, having missed the sunrise entirely - a cloudless sky transitioning from deep blue to orange, then to pink and finally blue again.

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48669740937_1b3e373ca1_h.jpg


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We all set about making our breakfast - coffee for Mike @Digiratus, cereal for me, an amazing looking breakfast burrito for Dan @drr, and - of course - Donettes for Monte @Blackdawg - as the sun beamed down on us from the east. It was looking to be another beautiful day in British Columbia. :canada:

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Still moving a bit slowly, it wasn't until 10:00am that we had everything cleaned up and stowed away in the trucks, ready to go on our first real day of running the Whipsaw Trail. Somehow I found myself in the front of the pack, a position I've rarely been in with this group as we lined up at the edge of camp. It was time for our morning radio check.

48669740092_87dc26315f_h.jpg

Screeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeetch.

Mike's radio was clearly not working. It'd been acting up the previous day at various times, but leaving it alone for a few minutes always seemed to fix it. Today, that was not the case. Unsure of the problem, our first attempt to remedy the issue was an antenna trade - Dan trading with Mike to see if it made a difference.

48669582251_d2664ed9ec_h.jpg

It didn't. Neither did disconnecting and reconnecting the microphone - something that had sometimes resolved the problem for me when I was having an issue with my CB. Turns out, Mike's been having an issue with his radio for a while, so he's already got a spare one - at home! Something to fix up before the next trip. For now, he decided that the Ham radio would suffice for outbound communication, and he'd listen to the rest of our chatter on the CB. So, we were back into our trucks and on our way, dust kicking up behind us, me happy to be up front and dust free.

48669238043_50c61f9fb7_h.jpg

But not for long. It soon became clear that Mike's radio problems weren't over for the day - every time he keyed his Ham radio to speak, Monte and I could hear the keying of the microphone and see the busy signal on our radios, but we couldn't hear him talk at all! We pulled over to evaluate the situation again.

48669237668_2e85e60526_h.jpg

More fiddling ensued - to no avail. Luckily however, Mike and I both have Kenwood radios - me a Kenwood D710G dual-band ham radio and Mike a Kenwood V71A dual-band ham radio. The base units of these are the same, so hoping that perhaps the problem was in Mike's microphone, we swapped mic's and gave it a try again. It worked great! And we were back underway.

In camp that evening, Mike would disassemble his mic to see if he could fix the issue - and everything looked just fine inside (of course). Putting it all back together and trying it out, it worked! Likely just a loose connection that he reseated somewhere.

48669237353_23d31c20b3_h.jpg

Our first stop along the trail was at an old mill. Marked as a sawmill on our route, closer inspection seemed to suggest that it was actually some sort of mine mill. Water appeared to be funneled downhill - perhaps to power a stamp mill - through a set of chutes, and a nearby structure quite clearly contained thousands of drilled core samples - perhaps to measure the concentration of certain material in the ground.

48669237238_9f81396534_h.jpg


48669581001_f5bb75338d_h.jpg


48669738277_f4e431d06d_h.jpg

The mill thoroughly explored, we were back on the trail - travelling the Whipsaw in a clockwise direction - all of us happy to be off the main logging road at this point and onto something a bit more bumpy, and starting to get a little flexy in places.

48669738067_ea69bf9a1f_h.jpg

Soon, we came on a second set of structures - these in a bit better condition than the mill. One looked like a log cabin, but on inspection was actually a set of stables (that looked to still be in use); the other was a snow mobile warming hut that had seen much better days, courtesy of local 4x4 clubs who'd left their "mark."

Tread Lightly, Canada.

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48669235953_1897959b14_h.jpg


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A little disappointed, we didn't spend long at these cabins, opting instead to continue on to the third - and I believe last - cabin we had marked on the route.



Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...

Keep reading the rest here
Whipsaw Trail 2 - Some Winching Necessary



.
When ya run across a cabin like this don't ya want to come back with a few open trailers, some paint, and clean it up? I love these places.

Wonderful trip, have to make it goal to visit, and so close to home.
 

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