Off-Road tent / haul everything Jeep JK trailer

JeepDork

Adventurer
OK so I just started welding because a good friend gave a welder. I built a bumper for my Jeep and mount for my hi-lift. Then I started on the trailer. I killed that welder and bought a used Lincoln 255. Everything I have ever built before (always for my Jeep) was always welded by another friend that had years of welding experience and his own shop. He retired and I had to stand on my own two feet, so here I am. The problem with this trailer that I have built is that I have made it too heavy. I just plan and simple used to heavy of material and made it too big. I guess it's hard to build one trailer to do everything and still be light and small. The idea was originally to build a trailer big enough for a large tent on top but able to still follow the Jeep. Then came the idea of hauling dirt bikes with the tailgate closed. Yet another idea was to have it on 37" tires the same as the jeep to use one common spare. So... after all these different idea's here we are. Oh and everything built for a jeep is always 1/4" to 5/16" thick so to me that's an off road standard. Not the case with a trailer. What I didn't take into account is the strength of the parts working together once assembled. Things like control arms on a jeep that are 5/16" thick work alone when hit by a rock, but the side of your trailer can use the frame and panels welded together to have a combined strength equal to a single thicker piece of material. I made this mistake of the side boxes of my trailer. I built the side box frames out of 1" X 1" .120 then skinned it with .120 plate. Yeah it's not going anywhere. Right now I'm at about 900lbs and figure it will be close to 1300#'s or 1400#'s when I am done. Here is a list of materials I used:

3500lb axle hubs
2" X 2" X .250 wall square tube for axle
2" X 3" X .120 rectangle tube for frame and bed cross bracing
2" X 3" X .188 rectangle tube for tongue
2.5" X 2.5" X .250 square tube for receiver for the hitch and cross brace on tongue
2" X 2" X .095 square tube for the box sides and additional bed cross bracing
1" X 1" X .120 square tube for side box frame

Box size is 46" X 86" X 21.5"(7ft inside the box with the tailgate closed) This size was originally used because I wanted to be able to use a tonneau cover from a step side ford ranger. This changed because I went longer with the trailer in order to fit a motorcycle in the bed with the tailgate closed. The depth of the box is 1/2 inch taller than a few container's I have that I will use when camping.

The tongue was originally built to hold a 37" tire inset between the frame rail of the tongue. Because of tongue weight the spare will be built onto the tailgate/swingout tire carrier. I notched out the front of the box half way and ran the main tongue rails back to the side frame rails. I also added a doubler plate at the frame where it is notched. I found a web site about tongue strength and mine is about double of what I need. I figured better to be stronger off road than not.

Tires are BFG AT 37 X 12.5 X 17
Wheels are 17 X 8 w/4.5" back spacing

The trailer has the same track width as my JK with the current spacers on the JK.
The tongue is 5' long from the front of the box so I can do at least a full 90 degree turn and get into the rear of the Jeep when camping without unhooking the JK.

Each side box is the full length of the trailer and 11" wide. I have yet to build the lids for these but the idea is to be able to transport fishing poles full assembled and rifles, shoves ect. Just a nice sealed and locked area for these items.

I originally found this design on a Jeep forum and really really liked it. I noticed that it has been done before and turned out great by another member here. The plan is to use a roll-up cover for the bed and mount a RTT on top. I also have shocks for it and I am currently using small 1600# trailer springs. I think these are not going to last long and airbags will be in the near future. So far I have learned a bunch and WOW so much I would do differently. First thing is use much lighter material and make the box smaller.

Well remember I am new to welding and I end up doing a lot of grinding and re welding. I'm getting better but still learning.
 

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JeepDork

Adventurer
More pictures

Sorry about the pictures being out of order I didn't sort them first, but you get the idea.
 

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Area52

Adventurer
JD,

What brand axle did you use that allowed you to use hub centric JK bolt pattern rims, or did use use spacers in conjunction with the trailer axle?

Nice work.


Jim
 

JeepDork

Adventurer
JK bolt pattern

I don't know the brand but I went to San Diego Trailer supply. This being my first build I had a ton of questions and wanted to talk, they were very nice about it. I have even emailed them pictures and then called and asked questions. They have always made time for me. I know JK's use the 5X5 bolt pattern and they had them in stock. Here is the link to them:

http://www.sandiegotrailer.com/

I had to re- read this, the wheels are not hub centric, they are not stock wheels.
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
Holy crap, I hope your JK can tow that beast when it's done, likely going to be close to 2k loaded up. I started teaching myself to weld over the summer, figured it was time to learn after watching friends over the years. I can honestly say that trying to learn with a cheap welder sucks, but I managed and will be picking up a better one soon. As for the strength of steel, a basic 2x2x1/4in wall 4x6ft box frame is strong enough to haul about 6k pounds before you have to worry.
 

JeepDork

Adventurer
Yeah this is going to probably turn into the trailer to pull behind the pick up or 4 runner depending on how heavy it is. Trailer number two will be for the JK when it's all said and done. Live and learn I guess. Sure would like to learn to tig weld and go after an Aluminum trailer build next. That would be fun!
 
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'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Looks great Man, nice start!!! Looking forward to more updates...

BTW-I built my "bomb shelter" build out of 2x4 .120 box on the main frame with .188 bumper, true receiver tube running full length through the center-about 12' I think, and 2x2 .120 for rest of the angled pieces. I guess the fenders are 1x2 .120. Skinned in 16 ga sheet for the sides and 14 ga on the floor. It came out at 1360 lbs. after adding in a bunch more steel for side doors. Tongue weight is 160 lbs. Tows beautifully behind my '05 LJ Rubi. I did put brakes on it but haven't wired them up yet. Should do nice behind your JK.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

JeepDork

Adventurer
A couple more pictures

Had a friend help me lift and hold the sides in place while I welded them up. I also used scrap I had laying around to cover the tongue. I have the front tacked in place. I need to finish welding and start on the grinding with the flapper wheel to smooth and blend all the edges. I have taken so long to do this damn trailer it's starting to get some surface rust on the garage. Next will be figuring out the lids for the long boxes and the tongue box size... should be fun!
 

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JeepDork

Adventurer
what kind of sealant or caulk to use?

I am getting ready to paint the inside of the side boxes. I want to also hit all the edges on the inside with caulk or some type of sealant. I don't have any idea what to use for metal on metal joints that can be painted and will last. I have welded everything together but still want to make sure it is sealed completely. Any idea's on this would be great, thank you in advance!
 

onelow1ton

Adventurer
looks nice

you can use seam sealer like they use on cars or you can get some latex painters caulk from one of the big home stores cheaper but it has to be painted over or it will grow mold and stuff if not painted because than it can absorb moisture over time (long time) and most paints should cover it no problem some auto paints might not but a quick shot of rattle can primer should take care of that
 

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