Option for Off Road Camper Exterior "Skin"

Dpoul88

New member
I see people use all kinds of different materials from aluminum to Filon, to just paint to CPES. I originally disregarded the paint or CPES for not being durable enough but after reading multiple people using it with great success I'm beginning to change my mind. It's MUCH cheaper. The goal is to just put a few coats of CPES then paint or bedliner over it and call it good? Will much sanding be required after the epoxy? Not sure I can even find a respirator at this time due to the Corona Virus. Any tips? I've remodeled vintage campers before but the exterior was always in decent shape so this is a departure from the norm for me. Thanks in advance.
 
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verdesard0g

Search and Rescue first responder
For my trailer I used MDO ply, from homedepot. Has a nice factory finish but I also put two coats of exterior latex paint.
 

Louisd75

Adventurer
paging @Teardropper :)

I did several coats of varnish and then covered with Aluminum. I went that route for because I like how it looks and I think it's pretty durable.

You may still be ok looking for a cartridge style respirator. I wouldn't bother using a dust mask style respirator for epoxy work. You really want something that will give you a good seal with your face. I've got one of these and I really like it, though they are more expensive. On the plus side, you get face and lung protection in one package. I've never had good luck trying to get a half mask respirator to work well with eye protection. The advantage of the cartridges is that you can change them up to match what you're doing. I also find the full face respirators to be more comfortable as the contact area is spread out more.


It's also great for keeping others away when you're walking through your local grocery store :cool:
 

Teardropper

Well-known member
Will much sanding be required after the epoxy? Not sure I can even find a respirator at this time due to the Corona Virus. Any tips?

I have not used CPES but I have read the Safety Data Sheet and the stuff is nasty: MDS

I use a lot of Raka epoxy. As with most epoxy companies, you can buy the stuff in different viscosities. I've used their thin epoxy for sealing three teardrops before covering them with aluminum. The stuff really soaks in.

If you read Raka's Safety Data Sheet, they say you don't need a respirator. I certainly don't use a respirator with it. (CPES seems to be a highly thinned epoxy and I suspect that's where the hazard is.)

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One thing to note, I read a post over on the teardrop forum where a guy put CPES over luan plywood and it caused the glue to delaminate. I assume the Xylene or something in it dissolved the glue.

paging: @Louisd75

Tony
 

Dpoul88

New member
Thanks for all the replies! Giving me a lot to think about. I've considered the epoxy and fiberglass route because I used to work in a boat factory when I was younger, it's just been so long I'll need to read up on proper technique again. We had the luxury of a chop gun and resin/catalyst gun for speed.
 

rruff

Explorer
It isn't that hard. First time I did it I was very worried I'd screw it up. Had no help, no one to consult, no internet. It went great... covered an entire large truck camper with no problem.

One thing though... if you are doing wet layup and you want a perfect finish, that's going to be tough. Lots of sanding and fairing. I completely skipped that cosmetic step.
 

Teardropper

Well-known member
We had the luxury of a chop gun and resin/catalyst gun for speed.

I used epoxy/fiberglass to seal under the Monstaliner. Adding a layer of glass is an easy deal. I used 2 oz cloth on the walls and 4 oz cloth on the roof. The weight difference because of available widths.

Do the walls while they're still on the bench.

80SB36Q.jpg



Buy the appropriate pumps when you buy the epoxy and don't mix batches any larger than about 1-1/2 cups.

DRJZria.jpg


Eaasy-peasy.

Tony
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
I used epoxy/fiberglass to seal under the Monstaliner. Adding a layer of glass is an easy deal. I used 2 oz cloth on the walls and 4 oz cloth on the roof. The weight difference because of available widths.

Do the walls while they're still on the bench.

80SB36Q.jpg



Buy the appropriate pumps when you buy the epoxy and don't mix batches any larger than about 1-1/2 cups.

DRJZria.jpg


Eaasy-peasy.

Tony

I think fiberglass is the best option, especially if you use it to bond the top to the sides. Doing so would eliminate water ingress from the joints.
 

PacificNorthWestJeeper

Blissfully Lost
Let me throw this out there.... Why not just skin it with aluminum with nothing other than the frame behind it, then on the backside insulate it with spray in foam or foam board and then skin the inside with whatever. Seems like that would be a pretty light and insulated way to do it. Don't understand laying plywood down on the outside and then skinning over that with aluminum?... Enlighten me..... thank you
 

billiebob

Well-known member
I'm a minimalist kinda guy. I use a 2x4 frame and OSB then a coat of solid stain outside, paint inside. Recoats are easy, quick run over with the palm sander, roll on the paint, brush the corners, done in under a hour. Going into year 5 now. Looks like new. The stain costs $20 a gallon. The first year it soaked up a full gallon. Much less for the recoats. And since it was parked inside this winter it won't need paint this season.

I had the trailer but the camper box complete with doors and windows and paint was $800.

DSCN1469.jpg
 
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