Panhard rod angle after suspension lift

Uys

Observer
Ever since my suspension lift (OME) , I get a slight wagging feeling when driving on roads where there is lots of up and down wheel movement. Corrugation does not cause this effect, because the vertical wheel movement is small, even if high frequency.

This morning I after driving behind a standard 4x2 Fortuner I visually compared the movement of the axle with the bumper on the vehicle, and was shocked to see how much movement there really is. That's when I decided to measure the angle of the Panhard rod, and see how the suspension lift influenced that. Before I start with my part of the explination, I'll post something on Panhard rods and how the work.

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An example of a Panhardt rod.


While the purpose of the suspension of an automobile is to allow the wheels to move vertically with respect to the body, it is undesirable to allow them to move forward and backwards, or from side to side. It is this latter movement that the Panhard rod is designed to prevent. It is a simple device, consisting of a rigid bar running sideways in the same plane as the axle, connecting one end of the axle to the car body or chassis on the opposite side of the vehicle. The bar is attached on either end with pivots that permit it to swivel upwards and downwards only, so that the axle is, in turn, allowed to move in the vertical plane only. This does not effectively locate the axle longitudinally, therefore it is usually used in conjunction with trailing arms which locate the axle in the longitudinal direction. This arrangement is not usually used with a leaf spring suspension, where the springs themselves supply enough lateral rigidity, but only with coil spring suspensions.

When the suspension is lifted, through spacers or longer coil springs, the angle of this rod changes,a nd the axle will physically be moved to the one side of the vehicle because of the "Shorter" (in the horizontal plane) Panhardt rod. This is a problem than can easily be overcome by buying or making a longer, or even an adjustable Panhardt rod.A bigger problem though is that the horizontal movement of the mounting points due to the vertical movement of the chassis increases with increased angles. Let me explain with images:


This is the position of the Panhardt rod in a standard suspension when the vehicle is unloaded on a level surface:
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Fig 1

Now lets look at the horizontal movement with vertical wheel travel:

If the diff move down 50mm, the entire diff wil move 5.5mm to the right of the car.


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Ok, now lets consider a case with a 50mm suspension lift and 50mm wheel travel.

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But, 50mm wheel travel is nothing. The Fortuner has more than 250mm (yes, I know thats not a lot) in standard form. It will most probably never be used on a road, but 80mm wheel travel is not uncommon on normal roads (pot holes etc....)

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Fig 4.

So, 80mm downward travel on a 50mm suspension lift will move the axle 15mm to the right of the vehicle. Considering that this take place at high speed, it WILL cause instability and body roll. Also consider that at this point the diff is 20mm offset in the vehicle. (Add the 5mm offset you got with the lift to the 15mm the axle moves horizontally due to vertical movement).

You will also fell it much more when the left rear wheel go over imperfections, because the Panhard rod mounts on the axle on the left side of the vehicle. It is typically felt when driving into a driveway at an angle.

The solution:

1. Lift the Panhard rod mounting on the axle,
2. Drop the Panhard rod mounting on the vehicle.

A longer Panhard will center the axle on the vehicle, but wont' correct the movement. I plan to manufacture a bolt-on bracket to correct the angle of the rod, and even reduce it a bit form standard guise, which I believe will make a massive difference to the stability of the vehicle.

Any comments - what to look out for, and what have you done?
 

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wikid

Adventurer
All things being equal. If you need to do one or the other I would think raising the panhard on the axle would be better than lowering it on the frame side. Unless there is a problem with axle to body or frame clearance on that side. Interesting concept though.
So you are saying a lengthened panhard is not the best option, due to lateral movement of the axle correct?
Even though you have more flex with longer shocks/springs?
 

Uys

Observer
So you are saying a lengthened panhard is not the best option, due to lateral movement of the axle correct?
Even though you have more flex with longer shocks/springs?

Yes, an lenghtend Panhard rod will center the axle in the vehicle, but won't change the angle.

Interesting enough, the OME's have only 25mm more travel than OEM.
 

shawkins

Adventurer
I have been thinking about this exact topic ever since I lifted my 4Runner. I'm glad I'm not alone in feeling the quirkiness that comes from the rear end of a lifted 4Runner.

Probably the easiest way is to lower the frame mount, but I think the best way would be to raise the axle mount.

Post some pics of what you end up doing.

Thanks
 

RonL

Adventurer
Panhard bar and your tie rod go together. We need to know what your tie rod angle is also, if they are not parallel, this is where the "wagging feeling" is coming from.
 

Uys

Observer
Ron, this is on the rear axle, not front.

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maXTERRA

Adventurer
I thought most lift kits came with components or recommended that the panhard bar frame mounting be dropped proportionally to the amount of lift added to maintain proper geometry.
That and dropped pitman arm....

I take that back. Most kits over 2" lift....
 

digitalferg

Adventurer
Given the suspension design, you've pretty much nailed the options. FWIW, plenty of vehicles use a similar 5-link design (whatever its technically called) and the aftermarket solutions available are a panhard drop bracket at the frameside, or an extended length panhard rod.

Other than that, you're choices would be to go to a triangulated 4-link design, or IRS.

-Ferg-
 

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
I'm not going to enter the realm of deleting the panhard/track bar as that is a whole different can of worms but regarding the panhard modifications itself. This is a very common issue with suspension or spacer kits on modern vehicles and there are plenty of aftermarket options for solutions.

Cut/lengthen: Often done using an internal sleeve and plug welds or an external sleeve. Pros is its cheap and can be done reliably strong, cons are its not adjustable and might not have the clean look some are after.

Drop bracket: Mounted on the frame. Returns the optimal stock geometry in which the track bar is in a near parrallel plane with the axle. Cons are complexity of building a bracket that won't tweak or bend under the forces and it puts your suspension back down in danger of rocks, etc.

Replacement: A completely new manufactured track bar. Readily available for most common suspension modded vehicles ie Land Cruisers, 4Runners, JK's, TJ's, XJ's, etc. Can come in either fixed length or adjustable.

Sleeve: Lastly there are companies selling a weld-in adjustable sleeve for use on your existing panhard. Ideal for those looking to make a series of suspension changes. Example of ones I'm familiar with:

front_panhard_diy.jpg

(Slee Offroad)

That said there are hundreds (thousands) of vehicle owners out there running mis-aligned front and rear axles in the 2-3" suspension range. I've really not heard of handling issues like your describing. While I fully agree with the resulting side to side location change, it seems to be a non issue in lower height lifts.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Where the Line of Action (LOA, straight line between the pivot points - regardless of actual bar geometry) of the panhard bar 'pierces' the plane of the chassis' longitudinal centerline is where the Roll Center (RC) of that suspension will be. Assuming that the bar is centered on the chassis left to right, the RC moved up by 1/2 of the increased ride height.

Whether moving the axle end or the frame end is preferable really depends on where the Center of Gravity (CG) is. The further away the RC is from the CG, the more leverage the CG has on the RC and that will increase the body roll at any given lateral acceleration, which need not be cornering. A bump in the road/trail/track can have the same effect.

So ideally you would move the end that results in the RC moving closer to the CG. This will reduce the body roll.
 
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boma23

New member
Where the Line of Action (LOA, straight line between the pivot points - regardless of actual bar geometry) of the panhard bar 'pierces' the plane of the chassis' longitudinal centerline is where the Roll Center (RC) of that suspension will be. Assuming that the bar is centered on the chassis left to right, the RC moved up by 1/2 of the increased ride height.

Whether moving the axle end or the frame end is preferable really depends on where the Center of Gravity (CG) is. The further away the RC is from the CG, the more leverage the CG has on the RC and that will increase the body roll at any given lateral acceleration, which need not be cornering. A bump in the road/trail/track can have the same effect.

So ideally you would move the end that results in the RC moving closer to the CG. This will reduce the body roll.

Warning - old thread revival!

I've just been researching this on the web, trying to decide between lifting or dropping my panhard on my KZN130 to correct it, and this is the most succinctly put, clearest explanation I've read - thank you.

Looking a the Surf/4runner, and envisaging all the mass of the engine, transfer boxes, body, axles etc. etc., it seems to me the CoG really has to be higher than the RC, especially after a lift, so lifting the axle end of the Panhard rod seems to be the best plan. I've found a strong looking adjustable one for the 2nd gen Surf/4Runner at Lowrangeoffroad (dot com), although not a simple bolt on:


Taken to extremes, I suppose a panhard rod could be mounted on a track car to become a form of active anti-roll if you could move the RC higher than the CoG.... having said this I quite enjoy provoking the rear of the Surf in the wet, it's quite fun for big slow thing :)
 
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