PEX Sharkbite push on fittings or crimp

[Ozrockrat]

My base hot and cold water system is only going to need a dozen or less connections. And I have the PEX plus crimpers and horsetail type fittings. But where I have to make some of the joins I will need to do some pole dancer type gyrations to get a good angle on them.

So what is the collective experience with the push in type fittings. Are they prone to failure due vibration or tensile loading? Are they really reusable?

Obviously they are more expensive than straight crimp type fittings. And I am a tight bugger (fiscally responsible I prefer to call it). But when I consider the minimal saving compared to the time, effort and frustration anticipated doesn’t seem like they push in ones are a bad option.

Also I can carry spare push in fittings and hose but I could do without having to carry another set of crimpers.

 

[J!m]

I used brass compression fittings for my shower system.

Parker are the best, but the Home Depot ones I used are holding up fine, from Virginia to the arctic circle and many places in between.

I used food grade polyethylene tubing (also from Home Depot) which I think is what PEX brand is.

 

[java]

They don't like side loads.

Yes you 'can' reuse them, but the Orings wear and they leak over reuse. (we use them for pressure testing with air)

As long as it's not completely inaccessible I'd be fine with it.


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[Badmiker]

I was thinking of the Uponor system in our PEX system...

 

[HayStax]

I’ve used the Uponor PEX systems in three houses I’ve built and many other fixes around the ranch. Couldn’t be happier and haven’t had any leaks or component failures in either hydronic hearing or domestic water systems.

Crimp rings scare me ?

 

[mvrk10256]

I have used the standard SS crimp fcitting in the past in custom RVs, food trucks, houses. They work great. I would use them. All you need is a $20 pliers to crimp them.

 

[Ozrockrat]

Thanks for the input guys. In the end I took the easy way out and plumbed everything with braided faucet hoses. All hoses are 1/2 MIP and I figured that it would be easier in the long run to just carry a couple of spare hoses. It also helped that the total run is only ably 10’.

Some of the key decision factors:
1- ease of installation given the number to bends/flexibility required.
2- ease of repair if something goes wrong (tools and special fittings etc)
3- Cost. The complete hose was less than the shark bite fitting for the end of the PEX.
4- reduction in spares to be carried. I can cover everything with a 72” hose, 1/2 T, 1/2 nipple and a 3/4-1/2 bush.
5- Laziness. I had 1/2 the pieces sitting around and it was like building LEGO.

My concerns at this stage are ensuring that the stainless braiding on the hoses is not contacting the aluminum frame or panels. Also about having flexible metal around the back of panel and shorting something out.

 

[Alloy]

I was thinking of the Uponor system in our PEX system...

I re-plumbed my trailer with Upunor (Wirsbo).....used Sharkbire check valve to protect the check valves in both pumps and Flare-it fittings out of the pumps.

With 1/2" PEX the closest 2 fittings can be is 2". Pg 5 here..

https://www.uponorpro.com/~/media/Extranet/Files/manuals/plumbing/AQUAPEX Install_HB_10-05.aspx?sc_lang=en

There is allot of thermal expansion with PEX.

Bends are 1/2" steel . . . .better than

1/2" plastic

 

[J!m]

Thanks for the input guys. In the end I took the easy way out and plumbed everything with braided faucet hoses. All hoses are 1/2 MIP and I figured that it would be easier in the long run to just carry a couple of spare hoses. It also helped that the total run is only ably 10’.

Some of the key decision factors:
1- ease of installation given the number to bends/flexibility required.
2- ease of repair if something goes wrong (tools and special fittings etc)
3- Cost. The complete hose was less than the shark bite fitting for the end of the PEX.
4- reduction in spares to be carried. I can cover everything with a 72” hose, 1/2 T, 1/2 nipple and a 3/4-1/2 bush.
5- Laziness. I had 1/2 the pieces sitting around and it was like building LEGO.

My concerns at this stage are ensuring that the stainless braiding on the hoses is not contacting the aluminum frame or panels. Also about having flexible metal around the back of panel and shorting something out.

I suggest getting large shrink tubing used for battery connections. Even if it’s not shrunk “tight” it will provide the insulation you want.

Or, classic solution: duct tape.

You may also consider splitting some 1/2” ID rubber hose and slipping it over. I think those 3/8” ID braided hoses are about 1/2” OD.

 

[J!m]

Splitloom will be much easier and weigh a fraction of rubberhose...

Yep. That’d work too.

 

[IdaSHO]

I hate split loom.

All I use anymore is expanding loom.

Works great for wiring and plumbing abrasion protection.

Only catch is that you need to slip it over one end of the line,
as apposed to split loom, that can slide over an existing line.

 

[javajoe79]

I've seen stainless braid saw into aluminum and I've even seen plastic corrugated split loom wear a hole in an aluminum tube. It's best to just route and tie off the hoses as needed so they don't touch anything. I've even used rubber hose, zip ties and long pieces of little coil springs to pull a hose away from something but allow it to move when pulled against the spring.

 

[javajoe79]

Kind of like this

 

[pappawheely]

I've seen stainless braid saw into aluminum and I've even seen plastic corrugated split loom wear a hole in an aluminum tube. It's best to just route and tie off the hoses as needed so they don't touch anything. I've even used rubber hose, zip ties and long pieces of little coil springs to pull a hose away from something but allow it to move when pulled against the spring.

I've had braided stainless wear a groove in a truck frame before! I won't use it anymore except on brake lines when I have to.

 

[Ozrockrat]

I had the stainless lines for the transmission cooler wear through the brake lines on the previous rig. Talk about a picker moment

These will be either covered in insulation (hot) or split tubing to reduce the risks to other bits of the vehicle and provide some insulation.