Power distribution & DC-DC charging in truck bed... and bed slide

hour

Observer
Does anyone see anything wrong with installing the smallest of Blue Sea fuse panel with negative bus (6 circuit) to supply a Victron Orion TR-Smart 12v 18 amp DC-DC charger?

Blue Sea rates the entire panel as good for 100 amps (30a max on single circuit). I'm running 8 gauge pure copper welding wire from vehicle charging system to the bed of the truck (~15ft), and while I've confirmed this thick insulated wire will fit in the Victron's terminals directly, it'd be nice to have some room for growth with additional circuits - LED lights on roof rack or something.

The other benefit of not attaching the 8 gauge directly to the Victron is that I can mount the fuse block and Victron somewhere on the bed wall and run ~5ft of thinner (10/12ga) wire to the battery - which slides in and out. The thinner wire would be easier to manage with the slide at the cost of not having a 6" run from it to the battery, should I mount the Victron on the bed slide next to the battery.

My bad on buying and installing the bed slide last week and not thinking this through. It's already a PITA with my MPPT mounted on the ammo can aux battery box and having the PV wires to deal with. I should have built a shelf straddling the bedslide closest to cab wall and put battery there, then all I'd have to think about is running power from the battery to the fridge - the only appliance on the slide.

prop.jpg
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
So it's "[undefined]vehicle charging system" -> 8AWG ->BlueSea Aux fuse panel -> DC-DC charger -> [undefined] battery -> Fridge ? have I got that right?

Sure, it will work. But the arrangement seems completely backwards and at cross-purposes, to me. What exactly were you hoping to accomplish? what's your primary design goal?


/not entirely sure this isn't a prank. It's pretty much exactly what I've been making noise about /against, regarding a DC-DC charger greatly reducing the available Amp input into an Aux battery.
 
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Wrathchild

Active member
Im not as well versed in this stuff as @rayra is, but I agree it doesn’t seem like a super efficient or user friendly way to go about this. I’d go back and build that shelf on the cab side you mentioned and house major electrical components there.
 

SquirrelZ

Member
It does seems as if what appeared to be a good idea- the battery on the slide- was not such a good idea when you got in the the details of the install. I agree that you'd be much better off mounting the battery to the side wall of the bed.

You don't say how many amps you're planning for with the 8 AWG cable. Using the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard that would be good for about 30 amps for 120 minutes with a 3% voltage drop. Is that accurate?

You don't mention the size or type of the house battery. A DC-DC charger will be slower than what Rayra advocates. If your truck has a flooded lead acid battery (FLA) and the house battery isn't a FLA battery, the DC-DC charger would be a better choice to ensure you're charging the house battery at the manufacturers recommended voltage.

I looked on the Victron site and didn't see an 18 amp DC-DC smart charger- only a 30 amp DC-DC smart charger. ??? A 30 amp charger might need heavy cable than 8 AWG.

Putting your circuit panel upstream of the house battery will mean its only powered when your truck is running. The way you're set up now, only thing you're powering with the house battery is the fridge. Connecting the circuit panel to the house battery would give you the option to power other electrical items from the house battery, which seems more versatile for camping.

You don't show or mention any circuit breakers.... You need to fuse the 8 AWG cable as well as the PV wire.
 

hour

Observer
Damn, you guys got more in the weeds than I am.

@SquirrelZ I'm planning for 18 amps to be the usual. I assure you the product exists ;) and anything else powered from that 8 gauge wire will be minor, like 3 amps of LED lights likely not run in conjunction with the vehicle anyway (meaning the Victron will not be charging). I have no idea what you mean by the "putting your circuit panel upstream of the house battery". The 8 gauge will always have power, the circuit panel will always have power, the Victron DC-DC will always have power, but will only charge when it detects the engine running (this does not require a signal wire). Yes the 8 gauge will have a breaker under the hood and anything leaving the blue sea fuse panel will be...fused...too. PV is fused. MPPT is fused.

You are correct, my house battery is 190ah lifepo4 and my starting battery is AGM or whatever they put in newer F150s. That was reason #1 for wanting a DC-DC charger. #2 was wanting complete adjustability to only charge my house battery up to 13.8v for longevity. I waited for the TR-Smart unit to arrive to market for this reason as I didn't want to run a non-configurable voltage from a Renogy unit.

@rayra I've seen you bellyaching over DC-DC units on multiple occasions. My solar is enough 99.9% of the time. It's only when I shade the panels with crap on my roof rack and travel many hours that I don't arrive somewhere still fully charged. I'm familiar with the use cases that would necessitate a 120 amp Blue Sea ACR - they aren't applicable to me.
 

SquirrelZ

Member
"putting your circuit panel upstream of the house battery" I meant placing the circuit panel between the charging source and the house battery.

As for being in the weeds.... details are important since Mr Murphy is a very busy guy. And electrical screw ups can get expensive very quickly.
 

hour

Observer
"putting your circuit panel upstream of the house battery" I meant placing the circuit panel between the charging source and the house battery.

As for being in the weeds.... details are important since Mr Murphy is a very busy guy. And electrical screw ups can get expensive very quickly.

Ah, understood. Hopefully I cleared things up re: circuit panel placement. I had re-typed my post 3x trying to cut to the chase and not end up with a TL;DR wall of text. Should have bulleted what I already had functioning properly and what I was hoping to add.

Looking in to building a battery shelf now at the front of the cab. Otherwise will draw inspiration from fridge slide cable management threads
 
I wonder if there is a heavy enough gage of coiled wire that could move with the fridge as you slide it out for use and then back in?
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Mounting the Victron above the window may provide a better swing for the wire.

Another option is drag chain.

1589345019502.png
 

hour

Observer
I'm going to DIY something like this and see how it works out. I'm ok with the entire right side of my bed being a no-stacking zone to not hit the wires. It's pretty much off limits anyway with bed slide limitations

 

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