Thanks for the additional info. What you have there is a First Gen, Provan Tiger, most likely made in Colorado on a Chevy k2500 4wd chassis, 6 lug, light duty 3/4 ton truck with either 5.3 or 5.7 V8 engine and the 4l60e auto transmission (unless it was optioned with the ober rare NV4500 manual trans....) Very easy and durable engine and drivetrain to maintain and cheap to fix.
The camper body is aluminum skin on aluminum and wood stud walls with a fiberglass top. One of the main problems of the early Tigers is the belly seam between the top and bottom that allows water to get in and rot out the floor. Climb under the camper and check where the floor meets the body with a screwdriver and see if its solid or rotted out. While the floor can be replaced its time consuming (the entire interior needs to be removed) and can be expensive. The second problem can be the two front camper windows that are notorious for leaking and rotting out the top bunk floor. Pull the top bunk back and check for damage or mold.
Since the roof is a single layer of fiberglass with wooden slates (like a old boat) that are used to simply hold the interior ceiling panels and not meant to hold much weight on the roof I'd be very concerned of roof cracking or leaks due to that pictured roof rack and luggage carrier if they aren't properly mounted. Also, these Tigers have little to no insulation in the roof and walls, no insulation/heaters on the grey and black tanks and some of the lower water lines are subject to freezing so they aren't well suited for winter camping. (Totally manageable and upgradable, we do at least one winter camp each year with no problems once I learned where all the low water lines were and added insulation during rebuild.)
The interior is made up of the very best 1970's vinyl covered particle board that will self destruct if the tiniest bit of water, vibration, overloading or stress is applied....so, check all cabinets, doors, overhead cabinets, drawers, shelves, etc......anything that is swollen (water damaged around the shower and sink) or doesn't feel solid will need to be replaced or it will fail. (the bathroom walls are actually load bearing and support the weight of the roof and A/C unit, plus it seems that roof rack system....so, if they rot out at the bottom the roof may flex and crack.) I forgot to add, the upper cabinets above the kitchen and sofa/fold out bed are mounted on top of the aluminum stud header and held in place by self tapping screws into the roofs wooden slates. Over loading the roof, over loading the cabinets (easily done due to limited storage space) or driving aggressively off-road can literally rip the self tapping screws out of the wooden slates causing the cabinets to sag or break loose and result in people adding more crappy screws to the cabinets resulting in a poor repair and crappy look.
I can't see whats been added to the rear bumper but, if too much weight is added off the rear (heavy bumpers, storage boxes, motorcycle carriers, etc...) they can overload the rear chassis extension causing frame flex resulting in cracking of the aluminum skin by the side door, side door alignment issues, leaks and cracking around the camper body where it attaches to the cab and floor flex/cracking or broken floor bolts and an over all unsolid feeling in the entire vehicle. (worse case scenario is the frame cracks between the camper body and the cab.....but, its repairable by a skilled welder $$$$)
The overall electrical and plumbing systems are very basic in these early campers and can easily be worked on, modified, repaired or upgraded.......as long as no knucklehead has hacked it up to add some crazy sound system, new super duper solar/converter/inverter/generator/flux capacitor system or repaired water line/plumbing issues with an old garden hose and duct tape.
The water heater, furnace, stove, fridge, roof A/C are all old school systems that are easy to repair (but pricey due to difficulty in finding a repair person to work on) or replace with a modern option, but can be pricey.
The rear wet bath can be a problem if the seams aren't kept caulked allowing water to get down into the subfloor and rotting it out. The nice thing is all the bathroom pieces are still available new from Provan.
It appears to be running oversized tires and some form of lift. While larger tires aren't that big of a deal with a high quality suspension lift and proper transmission cooler, they can become a issue if they cranked up the front torsion bars and stuck and add-a-leaf in the rear. The brakes always have sucked on this vintage K2500 so larger tires, big racks, weight on the rear bumper, plus all the standard supplies can make stopping in an emergency very exciting....check the brake system and lose as much weight as possible or upgrade to larger brakes.
Price......Given its age, condition in the photos and cost of bringing it back to a reliable vehicle I wouldn't pay over $8,000 to $10,000 for it and plan on spending that much to bring it back to a reliable vehicle (minus new paint, new interior, engine, transmission or other major component.)
But, once redone and baselined these old Chevy based Tigers are a dream to travel in and always a conversation starter.......Goodluck!
And a Tiger build thread if you'd like to see whats under the skin of a 1995 Tiger:
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/adventure-tool-companys-4wd-provan-tiger-build.139003/
