Proper propane setup

[3one5]

I'm looking for the right way to setup propane in my trailer. I plan to use a 20lb tank and have a couple uses. I have a propex propane heater that has its own 2 stage regulator. I would also like to use a propane quick disconnect at the back of the trailer that I can use for a Blackstone, Coleman stove or whatever else I want to hook up.

Originally I had the 2 stage FlameKing regulator that came with the heater hooked directly to the propane tank, feeding into a distribution block and then into the heater. That was all working fine. I then decided to plump in the line from the distribution block to the back of the trailer. I hooked up the Coleman stove and couldn't get enough flow to get a burner lit. I also tried a Mr Buddy heater which also didn't work. After some digging around I realized both the Mr Buddy and the Coleman stove have built in regulators so that wasn't going to work. I also now understand that the 2 stage Flameking regulator that came with the heater is a single appliance use device. I then decided to run propane straight from the tank to the distribution block. I have a line going from the distribution block and into the Flameking regulator then into the heater. Now I'm able to use the Coleman stove and Mr Buddy heater but I can't help but think this isn't the right way to do things.

Can anyone help me out with this? Is it OK to run directly from the tank into the distribution block? I really don't want to die in a huge fire LOL

 

[gatorgrizz27]

There’s nothing wrong with the way you have it set up now, IMO. The regulator isn’t really a “safety device”, it’s just dropping the pressure to be useable by the appliance. The biggest things would be using the appropriate material for the lines, I’d route them under the trailer rather than through the walls personally, make sure there are no leaks, and keep the main tank valve off when nothing is on use.

 

[Wm Hill]

The regulator should be the very first thing from the tank. They make adjustable pressure (0-10, 0-20, or 0-30 PSI) versions that will help your issues. I would also use flexible copper tubing & flare fittings.

 

[NOPEC]

I'm looking for the right way to setup propane in my trailer. I plan to use a 20lb tank and have a couple uses. I have a propex propane heater that has its own 2 stage regulator. I would also like to use a propane quick disconnect at the back of the trailer that I can use for a Blackstone, Coleman stove or whatever else I want to hook up.

Originally I had the 2 stage FlameKing regulator that came with the heater hooked directly to the propane tank, feeding into a distribution block and then into the heater. That was all working fine. I then decided to plump in the line from the distribution block to the back of the trailer. I hooked up the Coleman stove and couldn't get enough flow to get a burner lit. I also tried a Mr Buddy heater which also didn't work. After some digging around I realized both the Mr Buddy and the Coleman stove have built in regulators so that wasn't going to work. I also now understand that the 2 stage Flameking regulator that came with the heater is a single appliance use device. I then decided to run propane straight from the tank to the distribution block. I have a line going from the distribution block and into the Flameking regulator then into the heater. Now I'm able to use the Coleman stove and Mr Buddy heater but I can't help but think this isn't the right way to do things.

Can anyone help me out with this? Is it OK to run directly from the tank into the distribution block? I really don't want to die in a huge fire LOL

You didn't mention it specifically but I am gathering that once you ran a direct line from the propane tank to the distribution block, you then ran two separate lines from that block. One line went to a 11" WC (+/-) regulator (your Flameking brand) and then onto the Propex heater. The second line I imagine went directly to the Coleman or other appliance that has its own regulator on board. That appliance regulator needs to have the full pressure from the tank to work. If that is the layout, then I think the way you have done it is quite correct.

Use good quality components, check all the connections a few times a year with bubbles or a sniffer and most importantly, minimize the intake of Ethyl alcohol during the use of the propane appliances and I predict you will not die in a fireball as propane is pretty darn safe!!

 

[3one5]

You didn't mention it specifically but I am gathering that once you ran a direct line from the propane tank to the distribution block, you then ran two separate lines from that block. One line went to a 11" WC (+/-) regulator (your Flameking brand) and then onto the Propex heater. The second line I imagine went directly to the Coleman or other appliance that has its own regulator on board. That appliance regulator needs to have the full pressure from the tank to work. If that is the layout, then I think the way you have done it is quite correct.

Use good quality components, check all the connections a few times a year with bubbles or a sniffer and most importantly, minimize the intake of Ethyl alcohol during the use of the propane appliances and I predict you will not die in a fireball as propane is pretty darn safe!!

This is exactly what I did.

I am going to try converting a couple appliances to low pressure and try those out to see if they would work well in that config and then decide how to go about this after that.

 

[Teardropper]

I've got two propane lines, one for the Propex and one for the Partner cook stove. Works like a champ.

Tony

 

[NOPEC]

I've got two propane lines, one for the Propex and one for the Partner cook stove. Works like a champ.

Tony

Tony

Do you use your cook stove remotely (picnic tables, etc.)? Guessing if you do you would have a quick disconnect at the stove, with a shut off? I am designing a new system that will incorporate dual regulators and a "remote ability" feature and as well, using "black iron pipe" for the manifold like yours.

 

[Teardropper]

Do you use your cook stove remotely (picnic tables, etc.)?

Nope. It's always connected to the propane via a hose.

Lift the lid, and you're cooking with gas.

Tony

 

[NOPEC]

Nope. It's always connected to the propane via a hose.

Lift the lid, and you're cooking with gas.

Tony

Perfect. I am not too familiar with TD trailers so yup, I get it. Thx.

 

[craig333]

When I cook outside, which is most of the time I just hook up here.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Nope. It's always connected to the propane via a hose.

Lift the lid, and you're cooking with gas.

Tony

Can you share which connector you used for the partner steel stove connection?

I've ran propane lines throughout my own trailer, and put this male QCC1 nut on the output of each line. This nut has a built-in valve that's opened (depressed) by the stove hose you screw on. My Partner Steel hose can't seem to properly open that valve, yet works fine when connected directly to a 20lb propane tank.

 

[Teardropper]

Can you share which connector you used for the partner steel stove connection?

It's the connectors that came with the stove. A quick connector. Nothing special but that line takes 26 pounds of pressure which is a helluva lot higher than the appliances you're trying to run.

You can get a look-see of the male end here:

https://ahappycamper.com/product/partner-steel-cook-partner-2-burner-stove-hose-and-regulator/

Tony

 

[eatSleepWoof]

It's the connectors that came with the stove. A quick connector. Nothing special but that line takes 26 pounds of pressure which is a helluva lot higher than the appliances you're trying to run.

You can get a look-see of the male end here:

https://ahappycamper.com/product/partner-steel-cook-partner-2-burner-stove-hose-and-regulator/

Tony

I probably wasn't clear - I'm looking for the female connector that the original Partner Steel hose screws into. The valve in my female connector isn't being opened by the PS hose's male plug, so I'm curious which female connector you have that does work with the PS hose's male.

 

[Teardropper]

The valve in my female connector isn't being opened by the PS hose's male plug

There is no valve in the Partner female connector–-which is part of the stove. When you screw in the hose, it pushes the valve open on the male end.

Tony

 

[Alloy]

It might be rare but for me the top consideration is protecting the system from damage, ensuring all lines, plumbing runs have room for expansion and movement.... and ventilation.... there are clearly defined installation standards.... be sure to read them.

Do it right the first time....

View attachment 777304

Between double regs and the high pressure connection there's enough bad info in this thread to make it happen.

If they buy the right size reg and there's no need for more than 1 first stage and 1 second stage reg.

People that use high pressure propane have never seen what happens when 300psi propane leaks and catches fire.