I have enjoyed reading the build threads posted here. Figured I am at a point that I can call this project more complete than not so it’s safe to start a build thread of my own. I did take a lot of pictures but did not organize them as I went so I will post as I organize them. For those instant gratification types, here is a current pic. I have a few ongoing threads on SS but this thread will cover the entire build.
This build started life as a pretty clean M101A3 of GL. Trailer did not come with the gates, bows, or a tarp. Picked it up while on vacation in CA then towed it back to TX with a set of magnetic lights. Made the trip home without any issues; even with a decent load in the trailer.
A cell phone pic from a rest stop in Flagstaff, AZ.
At its new home in the driveway.
Since I put a topper and BedRug on the bed of my truck, the original plan was to use it at a general utility trailer/truck bed replacement. Other than lights and smaller tires, I didn’t really have any specific plans for it. As with most projects I start, plans began to develop once I started working on it. Joining Steel Soldiers and this forum helped get the juices flowing.
In February 2013, I started to pull things apart.
Since the surge brake system was less than operational, I decided to copy Mark Harley and remove the surge brake assembly and gain some drop on the trailer side with an adjustable channel.
Tongue parts laid out (inverted)
I removed all of the electrical, lights, and hardware that went along with it. Also removed all of the hydraulic brake lines and hardware. It took a surprising amount of effort to remove all of the phillips head screws that held everything on the frame. They had been painted over several times and had over a decade to rust into place. My trusty T-handle screw driver got a work out. Even though most wont see it, the effort to clean up the under carriage was worth it. While I was in the mode of removing things, I decided to remove the data plates as well (not legible anyways).
Regretfully, I made the decision to remove the manual brake system as well (brake drums, brake backing plates, and parking levers). It was not until the end that I decided the weight savings was not worth losing the parking brake feature. I should have at least kept the manual brake levers in case I end up with a new electric brake axle set up with parking brakes. I will keep this in mind for the next one……
It was a PITA separating the brake drum from the hub. I should have taken that as a sign to leave it alone.
Serviced the bearings and assembled the stripped down hubs back on the mil axle with some ¼” spacers.
I found some 16” 8 lug chevy wheel on CL, painted them flat black, then added Dextero E-Rated truck tires from Walmart (~$115/tire out the door mounted and balanced).
Ran new electrical with 7 pin plug, junction box, and submersible LED lights. I re-used the mounting brackets for the mil lights.
Got a plate for it. Only took about 10 min and $60.
Ran into a bit of a road block when it came time to have the tongue welded. I was quoted over $200 by several shops just to weld the channel to the tongue bracket with gussets. Decided this was the prefect excuse to buy a welder and learn to weld.
This build started life as a pretty clean M101A3 of GL. Trailer did not come with the gates, bows, or a tarp. Picked it up while on vacation in CA then towed it back to TX with a set of magnetic lights. Made the trip home without any issues; even with a decent load in the trailer.
A cell phone pic from a rest stop in Flagstaff, AZ.
At its new home in the driveway.
Since I put a topper and BedRug on the bed of my truck, the original plan was to use it at a general utility trailer/truck bed replacement. Other than lights and smaller tires, I didn’t really have any specific plans for it. As with most projects I start, plans began to develop once I started working on it. Joining Steel Soldiers and this forum helped get the juices flowing.
In February 2013, I started to pull things apart.
Since the surge brake system was less than operational, I decided to copy Mark Harley and remove the surge brake assembly and gain some drop on the trailer side with an adjustable channel.
Tongue parts laid out (inverted)
I removed all of the electrical, lights, and hardware that went along with it. Also removed all of the hydraulic brake lines and hardware. It took a surprising amount of effort to remove all of the phillips head screws that held everything on the frame. They had been painted over several times and had over a decade to rust into place. My trusty T-handle screw driver got a work out. Even though most wont see it, the effort to clean up the under carriage was worth it. While I was in the mode of removing things, I decided to remove the data plates as well (not legible anyways).
Regretfully, I made the decision to remove the manual brake system as well (brake drums, brake backing plates, and parking levers). It was not until the end that I decided the weight savings was not worth losing the parking brake feature. I should have at least kept the manual brake levers in case I end up with a new electric brake axle set up with parking brakes. I will keep this in mind for the next one……
It was a PITA separating the brake drum from the hub. I should have taken that as a sign to leave it alone.
Serviced the bearings and assembled the stripped down hubs back on the mil axle with some ¼” spacers.
I found some 16” 8 lug chevy wheel on CL, painted them flat black, then added Dextero E-Rated truck tires from Walmart (~$115/tire out the door mounted and balanced).
Ran new electrical with 7 pin plug, junction box, and submersible LED lights. I re-used the mounting brackets for the mil lights.
Got a plate for it. Only took about 10 min and $60.
Ran into a bit of a road block when it came time to have the tongue welded. I was quoted over $200 by several shops just to weld the channel to the tongue bracket with gussets. Decided this was the prefect excuse to buy a welder and learn to weld.
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