Real Rolling Dry Trailer Weights?

[R_Lefebvre]

Just curious to know what various real dry trailer weight, ready to roll are? I've seen the specs for some of them, the Chaser and Horizon, etc, but I've also seen comments that the published dry weights are before adding wheels and tires, tongue box, etc...

I'm just looking for info on people's real trailer weights, rolling, but before fuel, water, supplies, RTT, etc. I know there's the thread for the Conqueror trailers and we're awaiting real weights because the published weights are just implausible. The AT weights are maybe not counting many of the standard things (like 3 wheels, etc). What about the Sherpa and the rest?

Just wondering, because it looks like my custom build is going to come in around 1500lbs before bolting in accessories. Now, that is for a pretty large trailer, but I'm just wondering how it will tow off-road with the Disco. I do have a weight advantage over the typical Jeeps in that I'm 5000lbs, so the ratio isn't as bad.

 

[Martyn]

AT dry weights are for a base trailer with tires and rims on the scales, detached from the vehicle.

Variations in weight are due to additional options and accessories, and may vary due to rim selection and tire size.

Dry weight is normally considered the “model” of trailer without the addition of any liquids, fuel, water, gray water etc.

I think the idea of weighing a trailer without tires and rims comes from the method of weighing trailers used by some South African manufacturers. They do this to put a trailers into a category where they are not required to have brakes.

While there is no US official method of weighing a trailer, I think what you are asking for the equivalent of "Curb weight" for a vehicle. Curb Weight is defined as "the total weight of a vehicle with standard equipment, all necessary operating consumables (e.g. motor oil and coolant), a full tank of fuel, while not loaded with either passengers or cargo".

As a trailer has no necessary consumables or standard fuel tanks I don’t think this should not be taken into account.

Curb weight is a good starting point, but should be used in conjunction with a typical fully loaded weight. That way you can work with both ends of the spectrum.

 

[Martyn]

Can you can share what components and accessories compile the 1500 lbs you have calculated for your trailer weight?

Given those facts, and an idea of what you want to add. I'd be able to give you some feedback on the off road capability of your design.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Well, the thing basically looks like a Conqueror. The main body is 92" long and 72" wide (same as my truck) with a 64" track width (same as my truck). It's 59" high with 18" ground clearance, 24° departure angle.

I'm using a 3500lb rubber torsion axle with 3500lb electric brakes. 235/75/15 AT/MT tires on steel rims, and there are 3 included in that weight. 3 leveling jacks... that's the main purchased equipment, comes in at 400 lbs just for that. That's why, I almost can't understand how you could get any trailer to come in at 700lbs.

Anyway, main frame is 2x4 box tube 1/8th wall. The walls are framed with 2x2 1/8th. That's another 780lbs, but that is purchased weight, there will be some scrap.

The sheet metal is where I'm really putting on the pork, 14Ga floor and 16Ga roof. Again, I purchased 476lbs, not sure on the scrap but I'm hoping there will be at least 150lbs which is where I estimate I'll come in at 1500lbs.

I guess looking at the Horizon specs again, you're at 1100lbs, and that's before the tongue box. And then obviously you have to add battery, water tank, etc, but I don't have that in mine yet either. Regardless, maybe I'll come in 400lbs heavier which isn't too bad considering the trailer is much larger.

I'm curious what you used for framing and sheet metal. I did go HD on the frame because I want to be able to safely take 3500lbs on-road if wanted, (carrying motorcycles on the tongue). The sheet metal is probably overkill... well, 14Ga will be good on the bottom for dragging over rocks (will have a smooth bottom), but I probably coulda done 16 on the sides and 18 on the roof. Just, without experience, I didn't want something that would dent easily.

Wait... duh, I see in the specs now that you used 14Ga also, and 2x3x1/8 frame. So I'm a little heavier duty on the frame to deal with the extra weight, other than that, it's just the size. So I'm not too bad...

 

[OldSven]

Weighted mine, no tent, empty fuel and propane cans and it came in at 840lbs. That's about 300 more than when I bought it

 

[Martyn]

We don't use an internal frame for the boxes, it's all engineered folded steel, so we save weight there.

If I'm reading this correctly the main box on your trailer is going to be 92" L x 72" W x 41" H putting it at around 157 cubic feet. Did I get the right measurements?

That would put it at just less than 3 times the cubic volume of a Horizon.

As we all know trailers are like back packs, no matter their size they are always full. If that holds true I'd think you could pack it with around 900 lbs of stuff. Bringing you up to 2400 lbs.

Have you read our suspension article, particularly the section on torsion axles? http://www.adventuretrailers.com/suspension.html We learned some hard lessons using this type of axle, all of them from running on wash board.

We have some experience with customer putting motorcycles on the tongue of a trailer. It usually requires air spring to help the rear suspension. I'm not sure if the Disco has those.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Weighted mine, no tent, empty fuel and propane cans and it came in at 840lbs. That's about 300 more than when I bought it

Wow, so it was only 540lbs? Crazy.

Martyn, I wasn't sure if you used any steel tube in the box. Kinda looked like it around the openings, but I guess it's just folded. 3 times the capacity eh? Wow, I didn't even realize that. But, a few things to note, first there won't be any tongue box so the Horizon would be gaining on me there. Some of the stuff I want is bulky but light weight. Such as porta potti and probably a small microwave. Maybe even an oven, but I don't know about that yet.

Also if I have a sleeping space in the cab, it won't have anything stored in it during travel other than lightweight things like clothes/pillows/bedding. Another large space will be used for hanging clothes, raingear, lifejackets, etc. And also lots of room for dry foods.

Anyway, lots of space, but I do have a family of 4. And it's not just for boondocking, but as an Enduro support trailers, so lots of extra gear there too.

Oh, and as for the suspension, yes I read that, but considering all my options, I thought it was the best compromise and I'm going to try and make it work. And as the suspension on the truck, should work fine. I've already had the motorcycle on one of those bike racks suspended from the reciever, and the truck is ok. Sags a little, but not too bad, and having it on a trailer tongue will lessen the load more. And mind you, the bike would only be on during on-road use, so clearance won't be a problem.

 

[elmo_4_vt]

I am in the process of building my trailer this spring and was having the same types of questions/concerns. With me, my build isn't quite as big as yours, but I'm using heavy equipment/pieces in the build. In it's current form, my trailer looks like it will end up sitting at about 1200lbs curb weight. Luckily I'm in the same boat as you, were I'm using a bigger tow rig in a full size bronco with a 351, but I'm still worried about how the off road performance will suffer. After I get the initial build done this spring, if it's bad enough, I might have to take it apart and build a lighter frame for the build. I won't muddy up your post with my problems though, I guess I'll start a new post.

I look forward to seeing your build.

Don

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