Rear Leaf Spring Conversion - Bolt on design

geniuskidzz

New member
Dear All,

I have 2004 Ford Everest/Endevaour (the wagon based on old Ranger- Not the T6 - and not the NA ranger). It got 2.5 old diesel (non commonrail) with 4 speed automatic and 2WD (in my country - Indonesia, the 4WD 2nd hand mostly subject to abuse and either have high 2nd price or really bad rust underneath)

I bought this with modification donor car in mind (only need the frame suspension body etc.. the engine, transmission, and drivetrain will go in favor of 4WD 5 speed ford/mazda 3.0 commonrail engine)

but its on later stage. Right now, i am looking to replace the rear leaf spring.

The terrain it will go with are :
1. high speed gravel
2. Lots of plotholes ( so looking for friendly suspension)
3. maybe 10-20 % Muds, river crossing, and other things that need 4x4 with locker


No rock crawling, no things that need long articulation

I am looking for a comfortable solution for long range driving ( there are some days that i spend driving 2-3 days straight)

I have searched the forum (and google) for leaf spring conversion, and have found below solution.
1. 3 Link coil conversion
2. 4 link coil conversion - parallel - with panhard rod
3. 4 link coil conversion - triangulated
4. Watts link

As far as i know, 1 and 3 need welding on the chassis for the middle link, so since im looking for bolt on solution (its kinda hard to find good welder in my area, but its easier to send CAD design to some small manufacturer and have them made it, all cut and welded by machine), i probably will go with either 2 and 4

right now im geared toward 4. Theres some company in US that made similar conversion for race track (Mustang? i believe it was called Fays). Its reverse watts link where the middle link are on the chassis, and the side rod are mounted on both side of rear axle. If i limit the middle travel, the axle will stay on linear articulation (without touching the curving end of watts link)

if i choose 2, theres thailand company who made the kit available (4x4 exo) for USD 1600.
I have to made myself if i choose 4.

I will either use airbags spring or regular spring - gas/oil performance spring (fox/kayaba probably )

My question, do i miss something (other kind of solution? the risk of using bolt-on system? etc?)?

Thank you.2015-09-10 21.30.05.jpg

*edit
no, it wont run street HT tyres like in picture. it was using MT tyre - GT Savero. I changed it to HT since last few month i couldnt spend time offroading at all, and travelling strictly on good roads/packed gravel.

I will use AT tyre again after the modification to 4x4 done.
 
Last edited:

geniuskidzz

New member
I think you'll be happiest with some quality smooth body shocks and the stock leaf springs.

the rear axle goes side to side quite much.. especially in high speed gravel.. and thats with stock leaf spring which is quite hard.

Since i plan to tune it down a bit ( the leaf spring was originally for double cab version of old Ranger, which i recall for 5 grown adult +- 1 ton payload. My common payload are 2 to 6 adult with 100-300kg of payload- which is waaaay lighter that it intended to be ) i couldnt even imagine side-to-side movement of the rear axle.. it got 6 pcs of leaf spring each side, i plan to remove the 2nd one and replace the 1st one using isuzu's (panther/wind? idk if that vehicle sold other than in indonesia or not)

Well i know that its also means i'm going too fast in gravel, but if could tune it a bit i will be happy :D

If i were going to keep the stock leaf spring (remove the 2nd one etc), other than phanhard rod, do you have any idea to keep side-to-side movement? Since panhard will make the rear axle movement assymetrical if i recall?
 
Plenty of leafsprung vehicles came stock with a panhard aka trackbar. It works, and works well. Your other option with the leafs would be very stiff springs and using solid bushings........
 

geniuskidzz

New member
Plenty of leafsprung vehicles came stock with a panhard aka trackbar. It works, and works well. Your other option with the leafs would be very stiff springs and using solid bushings........

ah i see what you mean.

Keep the leaf spring (or tune it down a bit, maybe replacing 1st to 3rd leaf with lower payload kit or maybe longer spring and longer shackles, while keeping the rest as overload spring), and add either pandhard or watts to keep the axle from lateral movement?

yeah, i didnt consider this at first. I might go this route..

i will compromise with the weld, gotta find some welder with TIG welder though hehe

thank you.


edit1:

and while at it, i sourced some large airbags commonly used for bus here.. a bit expensive, but quite sure could be installed in place of rear shackle..

Its later though, after i got replacement engine hehehe
 

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