Recommendations for portable solar charging system

[Grassland]

My wife and I have placed a deposit for an Escape Trailers model 19. (Placed a build slot deposit, trailer will not start production until March)

E19 Travel Trailer

he Escape 19 is a lightweight trailer with lots of room for storage and the ability to sleep 5.Can be easily towed by an SUV or small truck.

escapetrailer.com

They have several options for batteries and solar.
The factory solar panel is 190w and flat mounted to the roof which while provides charging while towing, is less than ideal for while camped. (It's flat and we are far North with bad sun angles in spring and fall, and I don't want to park in full sun in hot weather if I can avoid it)
They offer several lithium battery options for the $ premium lithium costs, but also a dual 6V battery option.
I figured skipping their fixed solar panel and solar charging system which is probably pricey for what you get, and going to a higher quality portable panel and charger is a better idea.
The dual 6V SLA batteries are mounted in the tongue external storage box and thus have easy access to attach the charger and run cable to a remote panel.

We currently just use interior LED lights and roof fan in our pop up, but would be intermittently using the 12v water pump, charging USB devices like smart phones and an iPad, and the LED awning strip lights in the new trailer, and the occasional inverter use only if we can't avoid it. Plus the propane detector which is generally always on, bit a fairly small draw.
*Edit* wife would likely want to use the furnace first thing in the morning on chilly days/in the mountains, and I recognize trailer furnaces are not remotely efficient

I don't think we will need much solar to go a week with these loads and dual 6V batteries. Escape lists 225 AH, so that's 110 AH usable which is over double our pop up trailers 90 AH group 27 with 45 usable AH.

The only thing up in the air right now is of we chose the compressor fridge rather than the 3 way fridge, and I'll see if I can dig up the specs of that fridge for you guys.

Batteries are fixed, charger/controller and panel are portable. This is the goal, as we keep trailer shaded, and I can use this set up for a portable power pack later for when bush camping aka overlanding. Considering lithium prices will probably come down in the next 5-6 years when the SLA batteries need replacing, a charge controller that works with lithium as well is probably a good idea.

I'm fine to solder and crimp cables and connectors to things, but want to avoid making my own controller/fine electronics.
I'm not in a rush either as we intend to have this trailer for a couple decades and have currently gotten by with a 90w Coleman panel and charger so far.

 

[tacomabill]

If you do not order a rooftop panel I would ask them to pre-wire it for solar if that is not included, both rooftop connector and in the rear for portable. That will make it easier to install later. I am really glad my camper came pre-wired for solar as I later decided to add a fridge and solar. It will also add value should you sell the camper.

 

[Mfitz]

I would recommend using a portable in addition to rooftop rather than instead of rooftop. The rooftop can charge while you drive, still generates charge when the angle isn't great, and is more secure from theft- you don't have to pull it in at night, when you leave the camper unattended, etc. One portable is fine, but having several laid out each time you camp might get to be a bit much. The rooftop is always there to catch whatever light is available

 

[Winterpeg]

I've heard lithium batteries don't charge well when it's cold... I forget where I read that... you may want to look into it.

 

[vomhorizon]

I've heard lithium batteries don't charge well when it's cold... I forget where I read that... you may want to look into it.

Depending upon what BMS and how it is set up that is most definitely more severe a problem with some and less so with others but the technology itself has its limitations at charging at low temperature. On my battery, the OEM BMS is set to 25 F at or below which it will cut off all charging (though it can still discharge) and re-connect once the temperature gets to above freezing. Other BMSs, or home built kits can be configured to stop much earlier. Not a big deal for me since I don't plan on winter camping or having my batteries mounted in the engine bay or outside w/o temp regulation, but it is something to consider. Of courser 12 v heating pads and even a light bulb can be used to keep their temperatures slightly above freezing and they will charge and discharge just fine.

 

[Grassland]

We are very likely starting out with the lead acid do to upfront cost.
The storage box is just fiberglass from what I can tell, but I could put some rigid insulation on 2-4 sides of the batteries. Generally when we camp it's only below freezing by a few degrees and usually only over night.

Isn't there issues to worry about depending on the charge controller, battery management etc for if so have factory panel and then also try to add a remote panel that's a different wattage etc?