Red, Blue or Yellow?

[DaktariEd]

OK, so I think my primary battery on my FJ40 is fading fast. It's only 2-1/2 years old but it has dropped dead a couple of times and we just can't find any current drain to explain it.
I am going to upgrade to an Optima or Odyssey.
Should I go Red, Blue, or Yellow....or what?
My secondary (backup) battery in the Cruiser is a Yellow Top...

:sombrero:

 

[Pskhaat]

Ed, I may just be unfortunate, but I've never had any battery last longer than about that time fram (2.5 years) other than my deep-cycle marine Wallyworld battery I've had almost 6 years.

The big Panasonics, the factory Toyota 84 month, Optimas, Napa's, no-names, et al. I wonder if it isn't the constant 40C+ heat or conversely the cold we travel in? Or...it's just Land Cruisers?

The best batteries however have still been the old Toyota Panasonic white-top G27 batteries. I don't know who's making the Group27 84 monthers for Toyota now, but they seem to hold up slightly better than most.

 

[DaktariEd]

Interestingly...maybe oddly...the battery on my Sequoia just went out, too. Good last week and now...dead. Won't even take a charge all that well. But it's 4-1/2 years old, the factory battery. Can't complain about that!

 

[Big Daddy Chia]

I had a red top that I switched between 2 vehicles that I put 150k+ miles on in 3 years before a faulty alternator consumed it. Best bettery I have ever owned and as soon as I have the spare cash one is going in both my SUV's

 

[ntsqd]

I think I've finally killed my red top. It's of the suspect vintage, so I'm not too surprised that it won't take a charge.

I'm kind of surprised that yellow tops, being intended as deep cycle designs, live as well as they do in starting applications. It's not something I would do, but it does speak highly of the battery. Hopefully the new Optimas are more like the old Optimas and a lot less like the intermediate batteries (those produced shortly after Optima's purchase).

 

[Westy]

The Yellowtops are designed for dual application vehicles - starting and deep cycle use

 

[ntsqd]

I've seen that posted in the past, I think it's a web wheeler myth started to justify their use as starters. The rep who supplied CSU Chico's EV with 26 of them called them Deep Cycle batteries, not as combination starter/deep cycle batteries. The Optima page lists red tops as starter batteries and yellow tops as deep cycles. The only Optima's I've ever seen listed as combo batteries are the blue tops.
According to Optima's graph Yellows work, at best, as good as a 'normal' battery for starting chores. If it is a long cranking cycle then their performance falls below that of a 'normal' battery.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publ...n/config/product_info/automotive/starter.html

 

[ZooJunkie]

In most cases high heat kills a battery faster than cold. Living in AZ, NM, and TX could also be suspect. :shakin:


There are other alternatives like Odyssey batteries. I run a PC1200 in my Z3coupe, and I run a red top in my Trooper. So far, both are doing well, only time will tell.

Check out Odyssey's PC2150 or PC1500.

 

[offroad_nomad]

I've got a Blue Top D34M in the 4Runner, no complaints.

 

[erin]

Is it the type of battery that is affected by cold, as I have always found electronics in the winter to go thru cells like water. Granted, the heat we have here isn't easy on car batteries either, but I always thought cold was worse. Any hard info on this?

 

[ZooJunkie]

Here's a good read on Pb-acid batteries.

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-6.htm

The optimum operating temperature for the lead-acid battery is 25°C (77°F). As a guideline, every 8°C (15°F) rise in temperature will cut the battery life in half. VRLA, which would last for 10 years at 25°C (77°F), will only be good for 5 years if operated at 33°C (95°F). Theoretically the same battery would endure a little more than one year at a desert temperature of 42°C (107°F).

For additional reading about temperature affects on Pb-acid batteries, do a search for lead acid thermal runaway.

 

[DaktariEd]

Good info, thanks all...

I am leaning toward the Blue Top at the moment. The D31M has better reserve capacity (155 aH) and capacity (55 aH) ratings than the yellow (120 & 55 respectively).

I am still checking on Odyssey batteries...I don't see a lot of difference yet.

 

[ZooJunkie]

the difference is that for the roughly same price of a red top, I got my PC1200, I saved 7lbs over my old battery (PC1200 weighs 38lbs), versus the blue top models ranging from 38-61lbs.

Also the PC1200 is smaller footprint over the similar Optima batteries. So, in theory, depending on space in your vehicle, you can place two of these in the same spot.

The blue top model 31 is a whooping 61lbs! Whoa.

Anyways...check out www.batteriesplus.com for some good info on the two companies. I purchased my battery from them. To help you decide they are having a 15% off this month. :chowtime:

 

[Westy]

I've seen that posted in the past, I think it's a web wheeler myth started to justify their use as starters. The rep who supplied CSU Chico's EV with 26 of them called them Deep Cycle batteries, not as combination starter/deep cycle batteries. The Optima page lists red tops as starter batteries and yellow tops as deep cycles. The only Optima's I've ever seen listed as combo batteries are the blue tops.
According to Optima's graph Yellows work, at best, as good as a 'normal' battery for starting chores. If it is a long cranking cycle then their performance falls below that of a 'normal' battery.

You are incorrect regrading the Yellow top batteries. They are indeed designed for both deep cycle AND starting. I know this for one because when I purchased I specifically read both the Red and Yellow top manuals.

Secondly, here it is straight from the manufacturer -
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publ...onfig/product_info/automotive/deep_cycle.html

 

[Pskhaat]

Good information on temperature degredation. I'm sure Toyota ain't too happy about my returning their 84 month batteries repeatedly after 24.