Refreshing the TJ - Build Thread
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Kelly, I removed them when checking all the components for clearance. Under a hard hit they fully compress anyway and it is best to assume they aren't there and the metal is the hard stop.
Thank you!
imagrsmnky
New member
Great build... Really appreciate your attention to detail. Nice TIG work.
One thing I Have learned is that the factory upper panhard mount in the front is not sufficient once the leverage point is moved down. the whole cast piece rips out of the frame:Wow1: That point sees a lot of force.
I have had to retrieve multiple tjs off the trail using two ratchet straps to locate the axle.
My recommendation is either gusset it really well or replace it with one that wraps the frame. Also putting that joint in double shear gives a lot better piece of mind.
just my .02
One thing I Have learned is that the factory upper panhard mount in the front is not sufficient once the leverage point is moved down. the whole cast piece rips out of the frame:Wow1: That point sees a lot of force.
I have had to retrieve multiple tjs off the trail using two ratchet straps to locate the axle.
My recommendation is either gusset it really well or replace it with one that wraps the frame. Also putting that joint in double shear gives a lot better piece of mind.
just my .02
Thank you! I hope to improve from here. I love operating a TIG but my cosmetic results leave much to be desired! Overhead and vertical have been the biggest pain on some of these brackets.
Seen this happen too and it is something I plan on solving in the future. For now I just want the Jeep driving again!
Well I should get some more posts up soon! Thread has been dead because I've been so swamped at work the past month and then I spent 10 days on vacation pronghorn hunting up in Montana.
I did get the transmission and transfer case in, but nothing is wired in yet.
This weekend I hope to get the skid plate done. I'm very close, just finding the time is tough right now.
Well guys, it's been a while since I posted.
The past month and a half has been crazy busy with 2 work trips, a 10 Day hunting trip, sisters engagement party and this last weekend's Overland Rally. Weekends are my get everything done days...running grinders, air tools and welders during weeknights doesn't lead to happy neighbors.
The next week or two is the final stretch of this project's drivetrain phase, and I have a lot of catching up to do on this thread about what I've done.
Stay Tuned and thanks for all the support so far!
The past month and a half has been crazy busy with 2 work trips, a 10 Day hunting trip, sisters engagement party and this last weekend's Overland Rally. Weekends are my get everything done days...running grinders, air tools and welders during weeknights doesn't lead to happy neighbors.
The next week or two is the final stretch of this project's drivetrain phase, and I have a lot of catching up to do on this thread about what I've done.
Stay Tuned and thanks for all the support so far!
Thank you! I've only gotten better over years by buying the tools to do it myself. It hasn't always been easier or cheaper, but the knowledge has been worth it.
To keep pictures flowing...last night I mounted the rear reservoirs. I debated mounting them inside the fender well, but thought it was too high profile for tampering. I decided to cut a hole in the tub and run them inside under the lip. You can see in the photo I have 2 rubber stoppers there temporarily. I'm probably going to pick up some firewall grommets from the junk yard or push in style grommets from McMaster : http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-in-grommets/=epd2lm.
Before I drive I'll split a hose and run them over the hydraulic line.
Some other updates:
Drive shafts : Will be here Monday.
Exhaust : My down pipe, 3 catalytic converters & muffler were stolen from side yard. They must've been sticking over fence or the wind blew the tarp off the top making it visible. I just realized this a few days ago when I went to grab them to re-install. Frustrating & Expensive. Haven't decided which route to go. California emissions doesn't leave me with many options.
I'll update the parts list at the beginning of the thread later tonight; the weather is beautiful and there are lots of small things to do before I can start the Jeep up again next week!
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Bumpstops squeezed into the rear coils. Use dish soap!
Rear Bumps fully installed. By the looks of the picture I have about another inch or so before full droop. I went a different way than some of the Jeep Speed guys do with their bumps by mounting them instead of leaving them loose.
Front end is dirty! Using a bolt to slowly adjust and check all clearances before welding new extensions so that the prothane bumps can be used and my shocks are properly protected.
Here you can see one of my tierod bolts is hitting. These need to be no further than 45 degrees back to prevent this contact. This view also shows the max articulation on the currie JJ track bar & the clearance i'm leaving under full bump between the track bar and linkage. Yes I forgot the washer on the top of the track bar bolt. I will be installing it before driving.
Looking up from under the car. Here you can see how much I carved out of the ARB diff cover to comfortably clear the JJ track bar. The drips on the bottom of the cover are water not poor painting!
Absolute max articulation on the JJ.
Full bump clearance between the Axle and Engine. This is with a 1" Currie motor mount. I certainly wont be hitting my oil pan with the axle anymore.
Driver Side fully stuffed. Looks like I need run highline fenders with 32" tires.
PS full droop (jack replicating limit)
DS full bump.
Rear Driveshaft from Coast installed. Coast put the Currie adaptor flange on one end, the 8.8 adaptor on the other. The finished unit came out great.
Front driveshaft loosely installed for length check. Clearly I received the wrong driveshaft and it is about 2" too short. Bill at Coast Driveline and Gear already sent me the label to return this one and has one being made before the first is returned. Great customer service! I can't say enough about how easy they were to deal with.
Side of AW4 for tub clearance and mockup.
Dark photo, but shows the full drivetrain assembled under the car. Still have wiring and hydraulics left.
Rear Bumps fully installed. By the looks of the picture I have about another inch or so before full droop. I went a different way than some of the Jeep Speed guys do with their bumps by mounting them instead of leaving them loose.
Front end is dirty! Using a bolt to slowly adjust and check all clearances before welding new extensions so that the prothane bumps can be used and my shocks are properly protected.
Here you can see one of my tierod bolts is hitting. These need to be no further than 45 degrees back to prevent this contact. This view also shows the max articulation on the currie JJ track bar & the clearance i'm leaving under full bump between the track bar and linkage. Yes I forgot the washer on the top of the track bar bolt. I will be installing it before driving.
Looking up from under the car. Here you can see how much I carved out of the ARB diff cover to comfortably clear the JJ track bar. The drips on the bottom of the cover are water not poor painting!
Absolute max articulation on the JJ.
Full bump clearance between the Axle and Engine. This is with a 1" Currie motor mount. I certainly wont be hitting my oil pan with the axle anymore.
Driver Side fully stuffed. Looks like I need run highline fenders with 32" tires.
PS full droop (jack replicating limit)
DS full bump.
Rear Driveshaft from Coast installed. Coast put the Currie adaptor flange on one end, the 8.8 adaptor on the other. The finished unit came out great.
Front driveshaft loosely installed for length check. Clearly I received the wrong driveshaft and it is about 2" too short. Bill at Coast Driveline and Gear already sent me the label to return this one and has one being made before the first is returned. Great customer service! I can't say enough about how easy they were to deal with.
Side of AW4 for tub clearance and mockup.
Dark photo, but shows the full drivetrain assembled under the car. Still have wiring and hydraulics left.
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Unlimited04
New member
damn nice work!
Well it's driving! Been taking the past few weeks to tinker during the re-gearing 500 mile break in.
There are still a lot of things to straighten for me to feel complete with the Power/Drive train upgrades; Exhaust, ARB Compressor, AW4 TCM Wiring, however it drives freaking great!
On road the Jeep is more stable, more responsive and incredibly predictable. I think this has a lot to do with the 3" widened stance in the front, 1" widened stance in the rear, shocks being outboarded, and coils corrected to vertical travel. It is a bit stiff on the road without any load, however once I put a couple gas cans and tools in the back, the coils and shock valving soak everything up and keep it stable. Couldn't be happier. Obviously there is still tuning required, but for a first try I'm ecstatic.
A few things I've done to get the jeep a Daily Driver again:
Cutting template to modify the factory skid plate to bolt to the AW4:
Cut and welded in the new location:
First front shock tower tacked:
Both Towers tacked:
Fitting over cut factory shock tower:
New Stance:
Some Articulation Testing:
Still a few inches of fender to tuck
10.5/11.5" of front travel
Zip ties are only to reinforce the hard mounts.
There are still a lot of things to straighten for me to feel complete with the Power/Drive train upgrades; Exhaust, ARB Compressor, AW4 TCM Wiring, however it drives freaking great!
On road the Jeep is more stable, more responsive and incredibly predictable. I think this has a lot to do with the 3" widened stance in the front, 1" widened stance in the rear, shocks being outboarded, and coils corrected to vertical travel. It is a bit stiff on the road without any load, however once I put a couple gas cans and tools in the back, the coils and shock valving soak everything up and keep it stable. Couldn't be happier. Obviously there is still tuning required, but for a first try I'm ecstatic.
A few things I've done to get the jeep a Daily Driver again:
Cutting template to modify the factory skid plate to bolt to the AW4:
Cut and welded in the new location:
First front shock tower tacked:
Both Towers tacked:
Fitting over cut factory shock tower:
New Stance:
Some Articulation Testing:
Still a few inches of fender to tuck
10.5/11.5" of front travel
Zip ties are only to reinforce the hard mounts.
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X-plorenow
Adventurer
Fantastic Job, beautiful work. Makes me miss my 02 TJ Sahara.
Thanks X-plorenow! Looking at the current fleet in your signature I'm sure you don't miss it THAT much!
Update:
Clearly have been busy the past 4 months, but have been doing small projects here and there; mainly tuning and tweaking all the changes.
Some of the bigger ones which I will update later:
- Installed a rear catalytic converter
- Wired the AW4 into the TJ computer
- Wired the TJ computer to think it has the factory transmission behind it to prevent CEL Codes.
- Passed SMOG after modifications above.
- LCA Bracket re-welded after cracking and almost tearing off completely on a recent trip to the mountains. Currie LCA Brackets are waiting for a weekend to pull the axle and weld in. Debating trussing the D30 while I am at it.
- Installed Spectre intake through the cowl, as the shock towers now block the factory location. Working on routing a pre-filter before it, possibly a snorkel....
- Building the GotTrikes.com tubing bender to make my bumpers. I have to admit, the Milwaukee Dry HD Dry Cut saw is one of my favorite tools. It cuts cleanly, accurately, and most importantly makes easy work of 2.5" x .75" steel bar!
- Bumper/Winch - Acquired a Warn HS9500i and picked up the Expedition Portal Edition Winchline. Currently working on a bumper for the front.
An Early Mock Up: Excuse the duct taped cross bar and lack of level...It was quicker than tacking and just for visual purposes!
Current Mock Up will be this design but the lower aluminum skid supports will be wider to match the frame rails:
Winch somewhat cleaned up. I need to re-paint the motor fins and check all the electrical connections.
I hope to be active in this thread again shortly!
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