Rigid HVAC Micro DC AirCon

[jmnielsen]

Has anyone used or installed on of these Rigid HVAC Micro DC AirCon (micro dc air conditioner)? https://www.rigidchill.com/micro-dc-aircon/#

I'm purchasing an older Hallmark Ute, and a requirement for camping in Nebraska in the summer is AC. Rooftop air is out, don't care for the added height or the extra weight on the roof. Shaker unit is possible, but I am always interested in other (better looking, smaller form factor) options. Rated at 1500 BTU/hr, it is a bit lower than a window unit but I don't wonder if it would be enough for our needs. Bonus that I could run it off solar when I get that set up how I want.

Any other options people have come across? (no swamp coolers)

Specs Attached:

 

[CoyoteThistle]

Hadn't seen this before, looks really promising for a small camper. I too am very interested in anyone's experience.

 

[tanuki.himself]

definitely interesting....any ideas on pricing?

 

[AeroNautiCal]

The 12v model is listed at $550 to $570.

This looks to be just about perfect, a genuine 'State of the Art' Micro DC Aircon Unit!

 

[bglenden]

I'd worry that it might not be enough cooling (~10% of a window AC capacity), but if it is it would be awesome. Fantastic form factor and power requirements.

 

[john61ct]

4" thick insulated space of 4-5 cubic meters might make it practical, but even then not in Death Valley at noon.

 

[jmnielsen]

I'd worry that it might not be enough cooling (~10% of a window AC capacity), but if it is it would be awesome. Fantastic form factor and power requirements.

Agreed, it is a little lower than I would like. I emailed them with some questions and was actually told they are working on one that is a complete system with a 2900BTU cooling capacity, which I think would be plenty.

4" thick insulated space of 4-5 cubic meters might make it practical, but even then not in Death Valley at noon.

Thankfully I am not and will not be camping in Death Valley, especially at noon.

 

[luthj]

Input power is 150W with supposedly 450W of cooling. Thats a COP of 3.

It has a capillary tube, not expansion valve. The compressor is variable speed, so it may not be a problem? I would be curious if there is a temp sensor on the evap. The max discharge temp is 105C, so the unit should be able to operate in higher temps. Nominal is 85C, which in theory means rated performance is possible in ambient temps up to 100F.

The ideal setup would be to cool a bed. For example, one of those ducted air blankets that hospitals use. Or a bed platform/mattress with holes to duct air to the bed. 250W of cooling is enough to keep two people comfortable when sleeping. With only 10-15A of input power that could be reasonable.

Of course there are no standardized ratings cited, so actual performance may vary.

Also not that air flow over the condenser may prove a challenge. One option would be to use ducts, and swap to a high head blower to move the requisite amount of air.

 

[jmnielsen]

Input power is 150W with supposedly 450W of cooling. Thats a COP of 3.

It has a capillary tube, not expansion valve. The compressor is variable speed, so it may not be a problem? I would be curious if there is a temp sensor on the evap. The max discharge temp is 105C, so the unit should be able to operate in higher temps. Nominal is 85C, which in theory means rated performance is in theory possible in ambient temps up to 100F.

The ideal setup would be to cool a bed. For example, one of those ducted air blankets that hospitals use. Or a bed platform/mattress with holes to duct air to the bed. 250W of cooling is enough to keep two people comfortable when sleeping. With only 10-15A of input power that could be reasonable.

Of course there are no standardized ratings cited, so actual performance may vary.

Also not that air flow over the condenser may prove a challenge. One option would be to use ducts, and swap to a high head blower to move the requisite amount of air.

I've never considered just cooling the bed, not a bad idea though.

 

[luthj]

I have been working this idea for possible implementation next year.

Coarse anti condensation mesh under the bed (about 1" thick, supports mattress but lets air flow freely). The edges are sealed except where the ducting enters. A foam mattress will have 3/4-1" holes cut in it, maybe 30? That will let you duct dehumidified cool air into the bed. With a good blanket on top, it should do a great job, even in hot humid weather.

I find that trying to keep a vehicle cold in the summer heat (especially with sun) is not reasonable without shore power. The biggest issue for us is sleeping when its brutal hot/humid. If the weather isn't crazy a 450W unit might be able to keep a curtained off bed cool. Otherwise sleeping under the blankets it will be more than enough to dehumidify and keep 2 people comfortable.

 

[john61ct]

My approach, if I were to need aircon, would be to first build a super-insulated well sealed up living space, incorporating the design for my chosen unit

maximum cooling output per energy input, sized just under the maximum a Honda EU2200i can support using an EasyStart 364.

Apparently a Webasto 16kBTU works well, GE 8kBTU stays in ECO mode.

Then add a heavy curtain to section off the smallest part of it possible for cooling, and make sure my mains charger(s) are flexible enough so that my bank gets recharged while the aircon is running.

I would not even consider running aircon off stored battery energy.

If my rig's roof was large enough that "free excess solar" could run the aircon after the bank was full, well wouldn't that be nice.

But probably better to go park in the shade.

Or best of all, pick up and move when it's that hot, stay in the 55-65°F zone all year long.

A major point of mobility afaic.

 

[C p weinberger]

Cold falls / heat rises, would an option be to curtain off the sleeping area and blow air above the bed and have return under the bed to help pull cool air downwards.

 

[luthj]

With modest speed forced air, natural convection isn't a big influence in a small space. Though the supply return setup you describe would probably have a lower temp differential across the space.

 

[john61ct]

Even if only psychological, I think a cool breeze wafting down from above would be better than actually involving the bedding itself.

The return path (non forced other than by the aircon unit's path) going through / under the bed platform would be better than away from it though.

Maybe a long narrow torso-length grill in the sidewall just at body height, above the bedding so doesn't get blocked

 

[Bayou Boy]

1500 BTU in a popup truck camper isn't going to do anything more than piss you off at the effort you spent installing it.

Seriously. Buy a 5000BTU window unit from a pawn shop and install it in the door opening to see how that does cooling your camper before spending time on something less than 1/3 the size.

The Petcool that the teardrop guys used to use was 2000BTU I think and that would only really cool a very well insulated teardrop size space.