roof rack on topper?

beags86

Adventurer
does anyone have a roof rack mounted on a fiberglass topper?? if so post up a pic. i want to do this but i am unsure how much weight the topper can take. also how did you mount it? i am thinking if i take a roof rack and weld a flat bar on each side it would be enough to distribute the weight across the whole side of the topper that it would hold. don't want to put alot on the rack but at least a farmers jack, spare tire, shovel, ax, and few lights and some gear. 200- 300lbs when all done. any thoughts?
 

Mike S

Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
I have an ARE topper with a Yakima track system and it is quite strong. They are a factory option on many models and makes. You can carry a good load up there if needed. Or a tent.
 

beags86

Adventurer
yes i realize that, but i guess i was wondering if a standard ol' fibeglass topper was strong enough for this. as i am trying to decide if i want to go that route to buy a topper or not. and my budget would only allow for a used topper at this point.(full size 8ft toppers are not cheap new)
 
S

Squatchout

Guest
I can vouch for the Yakima tracks working well. I have also used an old style Obsolete Thule tracker foot for a 2000 Dodge Durango from thule. I believe it is the 530. Without the plastic base it is almost flat. Just a tiny angle which matches most caps well. You make a sheet metal backing plate for the inside. Then drill 3 holes for each through the roof and backing plate. Seal with Black polyurethane caulk. This is a permanant but strong mount. On my Titan I used large aluminum angle for the inside backing plate and drilled 3/4" holes in the other flange. This allowed me to put 3/4" PVC pipe throu for curtain rods hanging racks ect.

P9230023Small.jpg

Look close and you can see the Aluminum angle in the corners. It runs legnth wise 4" long.
P9230021Small.jpg

P9230022Small.jpg


Yakima and THule also make brackets that mount on top or on the side of the cap by through bolting for rain gutter mounts. These will allow you to remove the bars.


On my old Powerwagon I used some old Thule cross bars and some 3/8" eye bolts, fender washers, An all thread coupling as a standoff. Put the eye of the bolt inside the truck to tie things to. These eye bolts are also good for mounting the cap to the bed rails and provide tie downs in the bed.
PC290030Small.jpg

PC290031Small.jpg


Hope this gives you some ideas.
 

Toyotero

Explorer
It's not a typical fiberglass topper, but I installed one that I made on my old 88 4Runner which has a fiberglass top.

5828297_1e0f8c71b1.jpg


Installing it was a bit of a guessing game of where to put the holes and how much weight it would hole. You should be able to get data from the manufacturer regarding weight capacity and perhaps rack install locations. Alternatively, get in there and look at what you can see regarding the structure. On a truck topper, near the corners are probable the stronger locations to mount the rack.

Some info on my rack install:
 
S

Squatchout

Guest
anyone know if it would be better to use a topper with no side windows?
Do you mean as far as strength is concerned? I don't think it matters. My way of thinking is I don't want more than the weight of a couple of canoes or yaks on ANY roof rack. MY tandem canoe weighs about 80 lbs. I have carried 2 of them on my racks on several different vehicles. Well lashed down and driving with some sense but on rough roads with no problems. Most rack manufacturers say stay under 150 lbs. That's 2 canoes. Probably a good idea. At that load windows or not probably doesn't matter. Do be careful how you mount the racks. Many caps now have a foam or honeycomb core between the fiberglass layers. You don't want to crush that with bolts. You could always go with a contractors cap or one of the ladder racks that surround the cap like a roll cage. Best idea is to remember that roofs are for large light items that won't fit inside. I'm a big burly nugget and I have no desire to lift a heavy truck tire on and off the roof of a truck. Back country is no place to throw your back out because you did something dumb. The 35's and heavy steel wheels on my Powerwagon are well over 100lbs each.
 
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Bikemobile

Adventurer
Mine was on my truck when I bought it. Thule feet with gutter plates bolted on and siliconed in place. I would replace the rusty bolts but im afraid they will leak after I mess with them.

Ive got one thule bike tray for my mountain bike, canoe/kayak brackets to keep it centered, and some quick fists to get my shovel out of the bed when we camp.

photo3.jpg


photo1.jpg


photo2.jpg
 

beags86

Adventurer
Do you mean as far as strength is concerned? I don't think it matters. My way of thinking is I don't want more than the weight of a couple of canoes or yaks on ANY roof rack. MY tandem canoe weighs about 80 lbs. I have carried 2 of them on my racks on several different vehicles. Well lashed down and driving with some sense but on rough roads with no problems. Most rack manufacturers say stay under 150 lbs. That's 2 canoes. Probably a good idea. At that load windows or not probably doesn't matter. Do be careful how you mount the racks. Many caps now have a foam or honeycomb core between the fiberglass layers. You don't want to crush that with bolts. You could always go with a contractors cap or one of the ladder racks that surround the cap like a roll cage. Best idea is to remember that roofs are for large light items that won't fit inside. I'm a big burly nugget and I have no desire to lift a heavy truck tire on and off the roof of a truck. Back country is no place to throw your back out because you did something dumb. The 35's and heavy steel wheels on my Powerwagon are well over 100lbs each.

yeah i have thought about those contractors caps with the ladders rack but i don't really think i need to go to that extreme. i will be putting my tire up there. i only run 33 on my truck and my spare is a 31. my truck it not really and overland vehicle, more of a truck camping hub for riding atvs with mild wheeling to the campsite off of jeep trails. as i see it i need a roof rack to mount:

spare tire
off road lights, 4 in the front, 2 or 4 in the back
ax, shovel, high lift. chain saw.
canoe.
water container for shower i am building.
mountain bikes

and for the roof rack itself i will be building so it will be stout enough to hold everything i need.
 

78Bronco

Explorer
If you dare, you could have a subframe that passes thru the canopy shell that the rack bolts to. The subframe would be mounted to the bed rails of the box. It would be quite easy to seal by using a simple labrinth style seal. All the materials are readily available, cheap and would support more weight. Steel, rubber and plastic.

The hazard of just using the canopy to support the load is that when off road you exert much more force up and down beause of all the bumps and shocks. If you were to put 200 lbs on the roof and drive over a large bump at speed the vehicle tends to shoot up in the back, even if for second. Due to this sudden acceleration vertically your load increases and now that 200 lbs has become 250 lbs.

:ylsmoke:
 
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ilike2ride

New member
Roof Rack on Topper

I bought a fiberglass Topper with Yakima rails embedded into the top. Run the standard Q-Towers with a Yakima Load Warrior (with Extension). I've routinely had 35" Spare, water & fuel jerry cans, Hi-Lift, and other assorted gear. Never weighed everything together but I am sure it was close to 300. Also, when loading I (190lbs) stood on top of the rack with kit. Topper cost $700 and basket/bars around $700.
 

PrepVet

New member
I'm looking to do something similar to my rig as well, just concerned bout the weight limits on a fiberglass one.
 

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