Shotgun Cleaning Question

[adventureduo]

My dad passed away in 2004. He left us his shotguns that he hunted duck and trap shooted with. Well, next month i want to head out and shoot some clay pigeons. He always took care of them.. cleaned them all the time and they've been well kept in plastic cases and zipper pouches.


My question is, Do i need to clean them first? Im pretty sure last time they were used they were cleaned before being put away. But now its been a couple years. What signs should i look for if they do indeed need to be cleaned?

Oh yeah one other question... if they were last registered under his name and i take them camping with us, do i need to get them registered in my name or can i simply use them and then return them? They do not reside with me, they are at my moms and i would be just borrowing them for the weekend.

thanks guys

 

[Mike S]

My dad passed away in 2004. He left us his shotguns that he hunted duck and trap shooted with. Well, next month i want to head out and shoot some clay pigeons. He always took care of them.. cleaned them all the time and they've been well kept in plastic cases and zipper pouches.


My question is, Do i need to clean them first? Im pretty sure last time they were used they were cleaned before being put away. But now its been a couple years. What signs should i look for if they do indeed need to be cleaned?

You should inspect tem to see that they are clean and functioning well before you shoot them. If they need cleaning, use some spray on gun oil, a rod and barrel brush, and a soft, lightly oiled cloth to go over the outside after you shoot them.

Oh yeah one other question... if they were last registered under his name and i take them camping with us, do i need to get them registered in my name or can i simply use them and then return them? They do not reside with me, they are at my moms and i would be just borrowing them for the weekend.

thanks guys

You do not need to register guns in California. Last time I checked regulations for transport. You may transport them legally in a 'lockable' case, in the trunk, or in another enclosure that is not accessible from the passenger compartment. If you are traveling directly to or from a club or grounds used for shooting you can just transport them in a case in the vehicle.

 

[adventureduo]

Perfect thanks Mike for the quick response. I'll make sure to check them out and get them dialed in correctly before leaving for the trip. It will be good for me to get familiar with them again since it's been at least 10 years since i've touched a shotgun.


Pull! :REOutShootinghunter

 

[ntsqd]

You do not need to register guns in California. Last time I checked regulations for transport. You may transport them legally in a 'lockable' case, in the trunk, or in another enclosure that is not accessible from the passenger compartment. If you are traveling directly to or from a club or grounds used for shooting you can just transport them in a case in the vehicle.

While good general practice, as far as KA is concerned this applies most directly to "Concealable Firearms". "Concealable" is defined as shorter than a 18" barrel and/or shorter than 28" overall. For general transport a long gun can be anywhere in the vehicle so long as it is unloaded. Though I do my best to not make them obvious.

For post use cleaning I've been exceptionally impressed with Tico Tools for the cleaning of shot gun bores. If these are high dollar firearms you really don't want to use a wire brush on the bores unless absolutely necessary. Such bores are lapped & polished and a wire brush destroys that.

The plastic case comment has me a little concerned. Any sort of non-breathing case (vinyl covered soft case, molded plastic hard case, etc.) is subject to condensation. The shop I worked for insisted on only selling soft case made of breathable fabrics.
If these shotguns are in something that can't breathe I will strongly suggest that you secure cases that will breathe. At the very least use "Gun Socks".

For post use or handling wipe-down I use the standard silicone impregnated cloth. Some folks have very corrosive skin oils, so a wipe-down soon after use or handling is a critical step not to be forgotten unless you know that your skin is not corrosive. Even then the level of corrosiveness will change depending on recent diet.

 

[Carlyle]

Just make sure they're not loaded. Probably fifty percent of the firearm injuries we see in the ER are related to poor handling and that includes people cleaning loaded firearms, at least that's what the injured claim...

 

[adventureduo]

Oh , i know they are not loaded for sure. Gun safety is number 1 for us. I've been brought up to respect guns and have taken hunter safety course. We do not screw around when it comes firearms.

NTSQD, thanks for the tips. I will look into all of what you mentioned. I know he wouldn't intentionally ruin his own fire arms, so im sure they're in proper protection. But nevertheless, i will review all and make sure his beautiful shotguns are properly maintained.

 

[spressomon]

Ditto as above on the plastic case. You definitely want to keep them in a breathable case of some kind. And NEVER put a gun into any case that has even the slightest bit of moisture on it. Fingerprints are not good either. In fact to be kind to all your firearms just get in the habit of wiping them down with a soft cloth that has a bit of quality lube sprayed onto it before they are put away.

In terms of lube: Each brand and type of gun is a little different: Some like a light coat of oil some don't.

And ditto again, if you are not familiar with firearms, as above: Treat EVERY gun as if it is loaded. And right after you pick ANY gun up (irregardless of who told you right before you picked it up it is "unloaded"!!!) check it thoroughly for yourself...and even after you've proved to yourself it is unloaded treat it just the opposite and you'll avoid disaster!

 

[Buckru]

I know this thread is a little old but would like to add my 02. I ALWAYS transport my guns in a lockable hard sided case. After I shoot, I give em a wipe down like the suggestions above. When I get home I take em back out of the hard case to store in a gun sock.

I normally clean my upland once a year after hunting season unless rained on. Duck gun is cleaned after every trip due to water and muck.

Buck

 

[njtaco]

For post use cleaning I've been exceptionally impressed with Tico Tools for the cleaning of shot gun bores.

For post use or handling wipe-down I use the standard silicone impregnated cloth.

So I don't have to start a new thread, here goes..

I too recently inherited a variety of long guns, ranging from .22 to 12 ga. These have all been neglected, sitting in the corner of the garage, uncased, and somewhat unloved. None of these guns are valuable, they are just tools with a hint of sentimental value.

On to my question...besides the Tico product recommended above, is there a favorite brand of kit that covers all common rifles and shotguns that does not cost an arm and a leg? A kit that will also do handguns would be a nice bonus. I'm already figuring on WD40 by the gallon for cleaning and de-rusting, but what about favorite oils and greases? Rem-oil, for example? BTW, all stocks are wood, all steel is blued, if it matters.

I've been lurking on the shotgun forums, but don't know the personalities there yet, like who's opinion to trust. I'd appreciate the input of the experienced among us, if you have a few moments.

PM's welcome, too...

Some folks have very corrosive skin oils, so a wipe-down soon after use or handling is a critical step not to be forgotten unless you know that your skin is not corrosive.
Even then the level of corrosiveness will change depending on recent diet.

I'd better lay off the hot wings...:smilies27

 

[ntsqd]

WD-40 is Public Enemy No.1 to firearms. Yeah, I know some folks swear by it. They haven't had to clean the 100's (no exageration) of firearms that I have that were 'lubed' with that stuff.
Please don't go there.
Use lubricants and cleaners designed for the application. About the only thing that I substitute is non-chlorinated brake cleaner for Gun Scrubber. There is a difference, but the much larger price of Gun Scrubber is hard to justify. Be particularly careful with any of this sort of stuff on older wood finishes and know that you will need to replace the oil removed by any such cleaner. Bluing doesn't prevent rust, the oil that it traps on the surface of the metal is what prevents rust.

Cleaning kits: It is more expensive to buy individual components, but I frequently found that most kits were generally lacking. I prefer one piece cleaning rods with a bearing swivel handle. I buy them for the use, rifle or pistol. The rifle rods are a little more of a pain to store, but they are so much nicer to use. In particular I would look for the Dewey rods.
If that is more than you want to go with, consider what calibers you've got and buy as few multi-piece rods as will do the job. Note that some mfg's have different thread sizes for small bore and larger bore calibers. Shotgun rods are bigger still, though with a Tico Tool the bore will need to be terrible before you're likely to need one. Some brands use the same threads for the sections as they do for the jags & brushes. If the brand that you're looking at has any sort of marking denoting the end piece it's likely that it does not do this. The advantage here is that the first section of a sectional rifle rod may be used on a pistol.
Then buy the needed jags and patches. You may be money ahead to buy one kit as the base, and then expand into the other calibers from there.
Set your old tooth brushes aside, they make great action cleaning brushes.

Rust removal: Soak in nearly any light oil or Hoppe's No.9
The longer the soak, the better - but a week is usually more than long enough. Then clean like normal. May take several times. Sometimes 0000 bronze wool is needed for surface rust. Saturate the wool and the surface before using, and be very careful with it.
If pitted or scaly with rust, then soak as above, but before cleaning use the edge of a pre-64 penny (all copper) or a piece of a small sheet of copper to scrape the rust away. Keep the work area saturated in oil or Hoppe's. Know that pitted or scaly rust has removed the bluing under it, so you will have bright and bare metal when done. Personally I would not use a cold blue, but rather leave it alone. It's honestly presented that way.

Some links:
http://www.midwayusa.com/

http://www.sinclairintl.com/cleaning.html

http://www.brownells.com/

 

[Photog]

NJTACO,

I agree with NTSQD overall. But; since your group of firearms are not competition equipment, I would simplify the cleaning equipment list.

One long cleaning rod (not sectioned) that is long enough to clean your longest rifle or shotgun barrel. The diameter of the rod should be small enough to fit in the smallest high-power caliber rifle in the bunch (not .22 rimfire). Typically 30"-36". Dewey rods are top shelf equipment, and my favorite.

One short cleaning rod (not sectioned) that is long enough for the longest pistol barrel (if you have a pistol). Typically 8" - 12".

There is typically no reason to scrub a .22 rimfire barrel, unless there is rust in the bore. If this is the case, make sure your (1) cleaning rod is small enough diameter for a .22 bore.

If you really need the compact storage of the sectioned cleaning rods, definitely get one that allows you to use the first section as a pistol rod, as NTSQD sugggested. You will probably have to buy the brushes and jags from the same mfg'r.

Purchase the proper size brushes, jags (used to push the cloth patch through the barrel), and patches, for each caliber in the bunch.

Some cleaning kits come with the oil, lube, bore cleaner, and all but the cleaning rods & brushes. Some kits include sectioned rods, some brushes, and forget lube or oil. I like the lube-oil-bore cleaner kits, since the other parts are firearm specific.

A tackle box is a great place to keep all these little bits organized.

If you are skilled with hand tools, you may want to remove the wood stocks, and use the cleaning materials mentioned to clean everything back to bare metal, and then properly oil and lubricate the metal and moving parts.

I have not had to deal with much rust. My skin oil is very corrosive, and I get meticulous about removing all fingerprints with an oily rag. I would follow what NTSQD recommends, to the letter, for rust removal.

I find reloading and gun cleaning to be theraputic, quiet time. Not something done, while also trying to cook dinner, or watch TV.

 

[njtaco]

NTSQD and Photog,

Thanks for the advice. I stopped by the local Big Box sporting goods store (********'s Sporting goods) to see what they had in stock, and picked up the Hoppes #9, and Hoppes kits for shotgun and rifle. I'll get gun-specific rods later, as I see what ones I need most, and have more cash to dedicate to this "new " hobby. The kits came with sectional rods, patches, brushes, jags, oil, and more #9. I suspect the 10-22 and the Mossy 500 will see the most use, and the 500 will be stripped of furniture, and have the most attention paid it. This is the only one of the bunch with any real sentiment attached.:REOutShootinghunter

NTSQD, advice taken on the WD40. Further research leaned heavily to the Hoppes product, so that is what I picked up.

What container do you use to soak a barrel in? Most of the ideas I have come up with require too much solvent to be practical. Surely I am overlooking the obvious...the longest barrel at this time is the 28 in. on the 500. Will the Hoppes #9 react badly with ABS or PVC? Another idea is a section of aluminum gutter.

On edit... some say silicone cloth, others say oily rag to wipe off prints/skin oils. Does it matter which, or is it just personal preference?

Thanks again,

Bob

 

[ntsqd]

Poor word choice on my part, sorry. By "soak" I mean to use a nearly dripping wet patch to slather the bore with bore solvent and then let it sit for a while.
For external use (rust removal etc.) just lay it on thick enough to keep the rust submerged. An old tooth brush dunked in bore solvent works great for this. I only toss old tooth brushes when completely used up!

I'll second Photog's advice on the .22LR barrel. It is very rare to see one get copper or powder fouled, so cleaning one often tends to do more dmage than good. Auto-loader actions do tend to get gunked-up by the bullet waxes and partly burnt powder. The solvent dunked toothbrush really shines here.

The 10-22 is not a difficult firearm to field strip though getting the bolt out the first couple of times may take some doing. It isn't totally necessary to do it every time, but it should happen on occasion. If you start getting mis-fires it's probably time. The barrel un-bolts, but don't do so. It will change any sight settings and is not necessary.

For the shotgun barrel I can't say enough good about the Tico Tools. Again, it is rare to need a bore brush and IMHO a bore brush in a shotgun barrel is an act of desperation. The shotgun actions are pretty much larger versions of a .22LR and the solvent dunked tooth brush is my cleaning weapon of choice there too.

I prefer the silicone cloths. I find that the silicone oil stays on the firearms very well and the cloth makes it easy to apply. There may be other oils or methods that work as well, but I know nothing about them. We used the cloths at the gun shop that I worked in.

Thom

 

[njtaco]

I somehow missed the nature of the Tico product...and the cost. I will get the 20/12 ga Tico tool before I start on the inside of the shotgun barrels. How are the Outers "mops" to use on the .22?

Thanks again...

 

[ntsqd]

I use a jag and patches almost exclusively for rifle and hand gun bore cleaning. Push a couple solvent soaked patches through the bore, let sit for a while. Then I push dry patches through until they come out clean. If more than 5 dry patches and still not coming out clean I repeat the wet patch routine. If I have to repeat the wet patches more than twice, then I break out a bore brush. I buy patches by the 500 count bags.

Given that you're starting from scratch and have no idea what you have, you might start out with a wetted bore brush. Ideally you push through from the chamber end only. Remove the brush to withdraw the cleaning rod. With a 10/22 this isn't possible without removing the barrel from the receiver. which I think is excessive unless the barrel is a high dollar match piece. Can insert the rod and install the brush at the chamber end, then pull the brush through with the rod. For a OE barrel, ennhh..., maybe. Just be careful of wear on the crown (just in case, that is the transition from the muzzle end face of the barrel to the barrel's bore) and clean from the muzzle.
I've seen compitition 10/22's with a hole drilled through the rear wall of the receiver so that cleaning can be done from the chamber end. For a garden variety 10/22 that is convenient though excessive.