Sliders

Bretthn

Explorer
Why is it that every set of sliders I have ever seen for the 100 series Land Cruiser/LX470 are built on a backbone of 2x4 steel tube? I understand the 100 series is heavy but I see full size pickups and other vehicles that are as heavy or heavier do very well with sliders that are all round tube.

I would love to see a set if anyone has some to share. I have even looked at some that are built for Tacoma's thinking I could cut the legs off and make them fit as I need but I have never found any that are the right length.
 
Why is it that every set of sliders I have ever seen for the 100 series Land Cruiser/LX470 are built on a backbone of 2x4 steel tube? I understand the 100 series is heavy but I see full size pickups and other vehicles that are as heavy or heavier do very well with sliders that are all round tube.

I would love to see a set if anyone has some to share. I have even looked at some that are built for Tacoma's thinking I could cut the legs off and make them fit as I need but I have never found any that are the right length.

These are trail gear tube with kickouts. .120 wall dom tube. I had to get the longer ones for a tacoma and cut it down to fit the lc. The shorter tacoma ones were about 3" too short on each end. Welded the legs on to the frame. Saved me many times and work well. They cost around $200 plus welding.

53a08c62a0fdcbff759717162ac21e57.jpg
 

Bretthn

Explorer
These are trail gear tube with kickouts. .120 wall dom tube. I had to get the longer ones for a tacoma and cut it down to fit the lc. The shorter tacoma ones were about 3" too short on each end. Welded the legs on to the frame. Saved me many times and work well. They cost around $200 plus welding.

Awesome! Could you provide some more pictures of how you mounted them? Did you cut the sliders in the middle to shorten them?
 
Hi all,

X 2 what Billy Goat wrote. I installed a set of the weld-on Trail Gear tube steel rock sliders onto my Tacoma, and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the welds, etc. on the sliders. A great value for the money, and easy to install on a rig if you have access to someone that is a good welder.

Regards,

Alan
 
I've always thought people tend to over-do the sliders. Agreed, overkill in certain areas is not always a bad thing, but with careful driving, you can get away with much less.

My simple method for sliders uses one 2" round DOM tube that starts at the frame and comes out to just outside the pinch welded seam under the cab and then turns to go towards the back where it intersects with a kickout that turns back into the frame.

I have a strict "weight bearing" criteria for my sliders too, so this method doesn't mean they're weak.

These pics show them on a '87 4Runner. They are removable.









 

Bretthn

Explorer
I've always thought people tend to over-do the sliders. Agreed, overkill in certain areas is not always a bad thing, but with careful driving, you can get away with much less.

My simple method for sliders uses one 2" round DOM tube that starts at the frame and comes out to just outside the pinch welded seam under the cab and then turns to go towards the back where it intersects with a kickout that turns back into the frame.

I have a strict "weight bearing" criteria for my sliders too, so this method doesn't mean they're weak.

These pics show them on a '87 4Runner. They are removable.










Nice, I like the look and I am sure that is more than enough for an older 4runner.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Sure a round tube can be used. Just don't skimp on tube thickness and design to save a few pounds or a few bucks... Rocker panel damage repair will cost many times what a good set of sliders cost. I like my Slee sliders with the 3x2 rectangle on the inside with a 1.5" tube on the outside, the rectangular tube hangs 1" lower than the tube and creates a smooth uninterrupted surface for the rock/log to slide along.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Not the same application, but this is what I did on my 80-series framed FJ45-esk truck project...



I used 2x3x3/16 wall A500 rectangle tubing as a base. The outrigger is constructed of 10 gauge cold roll sheet and they also contain the body mounts for the tub. For this weight vehicle, and a bit harder trail use, I decided to use a bit thicker material for the main tube, basically because of the longer span from outrigger to outrigger. The body mounts are also the roll cage tie in points. I didn't want to over-busy things by having more outriggers. Depending on how you use the vehicle, rockers can take a lot of abuse and can see the full vehicle weight dropped on them fairly commonly.

Over time, they might even start to look like this...



If I remember right, those are 0.120 wall steel tube rockers. Tim Hardy has more miles on that thing than most, but it is only about 2000lbs.
 

shmabs

Explorer
For those of you who weld them to the frame, is there anything done to prevent corrosion on the inside of the frame? I just built a set of bolt on sliders for my 80 series, using a trail gear kit and fabbing my own legs and bolt on mounts as I didn't like the thought of bare steel on the inside of the frame. Even though I don't live there now, I grew up in the north east, and combined with some time working military aviation, I despise corrosion....
 
Out here in the west, corrosion isn't much of a problem, but I do like to squirt some paint on the insides. Sometimes I just use a straw attached to a rattle can nozzle and get whatever I can. I grew up in MN, where rust is really bad, and I remember they used to sell some wax or oil spray that you applied with a pressure sprayer (like a weed sprayer). I haven't seen that stuff in a long time though.
 

shmabs

Explorer
I was hoping you would have chimed in.....

I think I'm just being overly cautious, but I was thinking I would either coat the inside of the frame fluid film, or perhaps eastwood's internal frame coating.
 
I don't know if metal tech makes sliders for the 100 but I could not be happier with mine on my 80. Trust me they have taken tons of abuse and they are just scratched/gouged.
 
I was hoping you would have chimed in.....

I think I'm just being overly cautious, but I was thinking I would either coat the inside of the frame fluid film, or perhaps eastwood's internal frame coating.

I don't think you're being overly cautious. The whole point here is to make the cars and trucks we drive to be BETTER than when they left the factory. Any compromise always has me weighing the options.
 

shmabs

Explorer
There were many factors why I went bolt on, and corrosion was one of them. I'd like to see how much flex, if any, the various aftermarket bolt on options for 100 or 80 series cruisers sliders have.

Mine have a bit of flex when jacked up by the outrigger, but I know I need to go through and adjust/tighten the mounts before I draw a conclusion.
 

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