Hey guys i have Solar on my four wheel camper the way it’s wired in now is behind my main switch that cuts power to the camper which means the solar is always on accepting power. If I store my camper in my garage and the solar isnt getting any charge from the sun wI’ll it actually drain my house battery? Should I put the solar on a switch so I could cut power from it when the camper is being stored? Thanks
Solar while camper is stored in garage
- Thread starter Vst
- Start date
That’s what I was thinking with the controller basically being on while connected it would have some type of draw so I would need a disconnect or a fuse I can pull from the controller to the battery
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
I think the point here is that whatever draw there may be is so trivial that it can be ignored. Especially if you have your camper on shore power in the garage, as you should.
In my case, I almost always have at least one fan running to control mold, etc. And any fan draw way more than a solar controller with covered panels.
If not, then you need to disconnect the batteries and, assuming that you have a master kill switch (not just a load switch) that will make the solar controller moot.
In my case, I almost always have at least one fan running to control mold, etc. And any fan draw way more than a solar controller with covered panels.
If not, then you need to disconnect the batteries and, assuming that you have a master kill switch (not just a load switch) that will make the solar controller moot.
For storage, any expensive House bank should be isolated from all circuits. Cooler the better.
Check on it regularly to maintain the desired SoC point, for lead that is 100% Full, maybe every 2-3 weeks.
For LFP below 60%, make sure the BMS is disconnected or Off if possible, if not then che k V more frequently.
If loads must be fed, a cheap starter batt floated on a little charger will do.
If the bank is cheap then can never mind
Check on it regularly to maintain the desired SoC point, for lead that is 100% Full, maybe every 2-3 weeks.
For LFP below 60%, make sure the BMS is disconnected or Off if possible, if not then che k V more frequently.
If loads must be fed, a cheap starter batt floated on a little charger will do.
If the bank is cheap then can never mind
broncobowsher
Adventurer
When I got my solar controller I actually shopped for dark current. Most don't publish this number. Some do and it can be 100 mA. Which in a normal solar application doesn't mean squat, the solar the next day will more than cover that overnight loss.
The Sunkeeper SK6 charge controller I have isn't the latest drool-worth controller ever made. But it has been running non-stop for a decade now. The self consumption (the dark current at night) is something like 2mA. I have no issues leaving that hooked up in a dark garage for weeks at a time.
I prefer fewer switches and connections in my electrical, less points of failure.
The Sunkeeper SK6 charge controller I have isn't the latest drool-worth controller ever made. But it has been running non-stop for a decade now. The self consumption (the dark current at night) is something like 2mA. I have no issues leaving that hooked up in a dark garage for weeks at a time.
I prefer fewer switches and connections in my electrical, less points of failure.
Peter_n_Margaret
Adventurer
I have a polycarbonate sheet in the shed roof. Enough to provide a little charge from time to time.
Otherwise, put a small solar panel on the shed roof and plug it into the system.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
Otherwise, put a small solar panel on the shed roof and plug it into the system.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome