Stronger pinion

[cumminscruiser]

Well, stupid driving techniques and broken welds at the spring perches lead to a snapped pinion gear in the rear axle. Then the drive line fell out. The bad part was not being able to go forward. One inch in the forward direction and the rear end locks up so that meant 2 1/2 miles in reverse down a tough 4WD trail.

Enough of the expanation, Since I will be replacing the ring and pinion, is the stock Toyota ring and pinion the strongest way? or is there a better aftermarket set-up out there. The vehicle is a '85 FJ60 with stock running gear. My ratio is 3.90:1.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The 27 spline pinion that your FJ60 already has, is the upgrade. The older (pre-80's) LandCruisers had 10 spline "course" pinions that had much greater stress risers and a smaller minor diameter, thus it is common for them to switch to a later pinion setup for what is considered an upgrade. It easy for them, all aftermarket gears come in the 27 spline variety. For those like yourself with the 27 spline already, there isn't much you can do. You can send your gears to places like Longfield to have them cryo treated for strength increases, but as far as using off the shelf parts to acheive a notable strength upgrade, nothing available.

Now, be sure you have 3.90 ratios, if so you have something unheard of (at least here in the states). 3.7 was the common ratio used in all 80-87 FJ60's here in the states. With the FJ62 and auto they moved back to the 4.1 which was used through the 80 Series and was also used in all the earlier 40's, 55's, etc.

 

[KevinNY]

I don't think that is a break you will have to wory about again, stock is fine you just stressed it in a direction it was not designed for. Couldn't you have just removed the rear axles?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I don't think that is a break you will have to wory about again, stock is fine you just stressed it in a direction it was not designed for. Couldn't you have just removed the rear axles?

The FJ60 most commonly comes with a Semi-Float rear axle, so unfortunately you can't just pull the shafts.

 

[cumminscruiser]

My ratio may be off now that I think about it. Probably 3.73's.

 

[cumminscruiser]

Is there a full floating option ?

 

[ntsqd]

3.70's then, most likely.

You are SOA right?

I've read on 'Mud that this is a common issue when spring-over. Most resort to some sort of anti-wrap linkage. I've yet to see a A-arm type design that I thought worth using. None of them actually follow a leaf spring's travel path. The single, double pivoted link on top works pretty well, but it does place the main leaf in compression. Short of linking the rear there isn't a solution without compromises, and even that has it's own set of compromises.

There are Full Float axle housings that employ your existing third member. I just made the change myself. Was the easiest robust way to deal with a destroyed axle shaft.

 

[Mike S]

You can get FF rears for the 60 - stock from foreign spec 60's. You can swap in your gearset, 3.73 or 4.10.

I did this on my 60 when the OME suspension was installed.

 

[cumminscruiser]

Are the FF axles made from unobtainium or can they be found. Wow that is nice, Locking hubs on the rear axle or am I dreaming?

 

[cumminscruiser]

Oh and how do you post those large pictures by the time I reduce to 600 x 600 my picts are very small.

 

[ntsqd]

Having seen the results of a rear (Warn) locking hub failure on MISF's Warn FF converted Scout II I would not want locking hubs on the rear. Even if they were Aisin's.

Both MAF & SOR stock the FF rear axle housings. I got mine from SOR as their price was $200 less than MAF's for the same spec level (used). Availability varies with how recent their shipment from down-under is. Don't be confused by the MAF online picture, they don't come with rear disc brakes. The pic is, I'm told, of a 70 series rear axle housing.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Are the FF axles made from unobtainium or can they be found. Wow that is nice, Locking hubs on the rear axle or am I dreaming?

They are very available, we've done two loads of them from SOR in Cali to customers here in SLC including several for my own Cruisers (my 40 and 62 has FF's). They re-use your 3rd, brakes, etc and a good cruiser shop will have all of the rebuild kits in stock

 

[Root Moose]

Having seen the results of a rear (Warn) locking hub failure on MISF's Warn FF converted Scout II I would not want locking hubs on the rear. Even if they were Aisin's.

I'm not sure about the Aisin stuff but the WARN stuff allows you to use drive slugs instead of locking hubs. You'd really have to abuse the equipment to break it at that point.

There must be similar for the TLCs and/or the factory setup is effectively a slug?

 

[cumminscruiser]

I am looking in to the FF. I have all the ingredients for a anti axle wrap, just have not found the time. I could have built it quicker that driving a hard trail backward to camp, driving home in a borrowed car for 6 hours then replacing the third member in the dirt.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm not sure about the Aisin stuff but the WARN stuff allows you to use drive slugs instead of locking hubs. You'd really have to abuse the equipment to break it at that point.

There must be similar for the TLCs and/or the factory setup is effectively a slug?

It happened while making a left turn in front of on-coming traffic. Which is why I wouldn't want a locking hub there. He now has drive slugs, which is what he tried to buy originally, but the 4WP salesperson talked him into hubs. Too bad they wouldn't cover the cost of the Detroit that their poor advice cost him.
Granted, he is particularly hard on parts, but still......

The stock Toyota axle drive arrangement works fine for 99% of it's users. It is extremely similar to how Dana 60's etc. in the US are built, except for the cone washer arrangement. There are some OZ comp guys that shear off the drive studs & alignment dowels no matter how tight they torque the cone washer nuts.