Stuff on roof (boat) with HECO lift system?

[mkish]

Howdy. I have a Northstar TC 800 and will be putting a large canoe on the factory-installed roof bars. The weight should be fine but I'm worried that the boat will act like a sail and peel up the roof at highway speeds. Obviously that is ridiculous. But is there any reason for concern? Is it worth putting hooks or something on the roof latches? Anything I should know to avoid an embarrassing or dangerous situation? Thanks!

 

[kerry]

Not sure about the factory bars but I routinely carry either 3 kayaks or 2 canoes on the roof of my Northstar TS1000. I made my own racks by installing yakima artificial gutters on the sides of the roof. I have 4 bars but attach the boats to only two. I made a longer handle out of a sailboat winch handle to make raising the roof with the HECO system much easier. HECO said it was too much weight for their system. I've been doing it for 4 yrs with no incident so far. I do tie the bow and stern of the boats to the truck in addition to tying them to the bars.

 

[bphang10]

valid concern, no one wants a large object like that coming off the roof ever. first, i'd double check all the connection points to make sure they're solid. i've carried up to 4 longboards (9'-10', about 30 lbs each in bags) on the roof on very long trips at highway speeds and high wind. i put a backing plate (3/8 ply) on the inside of of the camper and through bolted my mounts. they are yakima mounts and bars and attach to the top of the roof. not sure how yours would be mounted, but i like the idea of the connection being on the vertical surface of the roof, not the flat on top. that said, i've never had a mount pull through, though i did have yakima tower fail and come apart on top of the roof in high wind on the freeway. the other 3 mounts held it on top, but since then i've always added a safety strap for highway travel. i had a very long strap of climbing webbing made with hooks on each end and a buckle-like slide adjuster in the middle. i run it over the boards at the front bar and attach the hook to the bottom aluminum edge of the camper roof. that way you can still pop the top without undoing the strap. it's just a safety, in case something came loose, i think you would feel it, and the strap would keep it from coming off.

 

[mkish]

Thanks guys. I like the idea of an extra belly strap that's independent of the crossbars. I like to think Northstar attached them properly but I don't really know. The canoe is 50 lbs so I am hoping I won't have to do any mods to raise the roof.

Sounds like you guys tie down a lot of things. Do you think crossbars 6 feet apart for a 19 foot canoe should work or do I need to look into adding another to get a better spread? This boat is sort of awkward to load!


Thanks for the advice! The people behind me on the highway appreciate it!

 

[kerry]

I'd run a long line off the bow and stern for additional security. I have a load bar with a piece of ABS pipe over it right near the back of the camper which makes loading easy. Lay the canoe at at angle at the back of the truck with about half of it forward of the back of the truck. Turn in upside down and pick up the forward end. Keep picking it up until it is almost standing vertical. Rotate the canoe towards the truck and tilt it down onto the bar at the back of the camper. Then pick up the end of the canoe on the ground, sliding it forward onto the top of the camper. I have a helper pull the long line on the bow of the canoe from the front of the truck while using the line hanging on the stern to stop the canoe from dropping straight down onto the rack suddenly.

 

[Regcabguy]

I have Yakima bars secured though the horizontal portion of my Northstar roof w/backing plates. Carried 4 longboards many times but I do unload them before lifting it up. I have cranked it up with one longboard. I've heard the gear on the crank strips sometimes.

 

[kerry]

I've seen pictures of stripped gears on the crank handle. I carry a spare. From what I've observed, the handle has a tendency to walk outward as it is turned. My guess is that most stripped gears result from this walking. Once it backs out a half inch or so, all the load is on the very end of the gear and it could easily strip. I keep inward pressure on the handle while cranking with the other to avoid this problem. I've cranked mine up and down at least 50 times with 150+ lbs on the roof racks without incident.

 

[mkish]

Thanks guys. I do have a spare crank handle but I think I'll be within the weight limits of the lift system. I have the small cabinet over the dinette also attached to the roof but that's it. I'd rather remove the cabinet tha have to unload the canoe for lunch breaks.