Sudden misfire after downshifting - 22re 1988 4Runner

Rosco862003

Adventurer
First off I'll introduce myself as this will be my first post in the Toyota side of this forum. My name is Chris and I live back in Charlotte after having lived in the Bronx for a year, and finally got to buy my dream rig which is a 1st gen 4Runner. My DD/ light adventure rig is a lifted 06 Impreza 2.5i wagon that I plan on keeping since it's able to do about 80% of the trips I plan on doing. I plan on building the 4Runner for the other 20% of what I have planned. Unfortunately it seems like it's been one hurdle after another in regards to getting this thing to a streetable condition. The first issue was starting related, and my initial thought was the ignition switch and ignition cylinder. I replaced the switch, which made no difference, and ordered 2 ignition cylinders (both of which didn't fit, despite the parts store stating otherwise), and finally replaced the starter, which was the culprit as you can see in the picture. After replacing the starter the truck ran great after the addition of some craigslist 31" off-brand specials. All was well for about a week when I was headed to work on the highway and decided to downshift from 5th to 4th to pass an inconsiderate *explicit* doing 10 under in the fast lane, who I can only assume is somehow related to Hitler to justify a crime so heinous.. Anyways after doing so the engine immediately sounded and felt as though it wasn't firing on all cylinders.

Oddly enough the CEL would only come on while on the highway, and when it did it would flash about 3 times over the course of a 30 minute drive for 1 minute or so, not a constant flash, and never come on while driving around in the city. It doesn't blow any smoke, there are no leaks, there is no water in the oil, and vice versa. I've replaced the plugs (OEM spec NGK) and wires (Duralast) which made no difference, removed the exhaust including the cat back, thinking that it might be a clogged cat, but there was no difference in engine response. I did check my grounds and found one that wasn't connected, and after reading that these motors exhibit similar misfire symptoms with bad grounds, I rejoiced when I tightened it down only to be saddened once I started it again and had the same issue. I've cleaned the MAS with MAS cleaner, cleaned the throttle body and am now asking for some advice before I start tearing things down to look at the injectors. I removed the fuel tank access under the panel and noticed that the ground attached to the body appeared to be freshly ground down making me think that the fuel pump was recently replaced. Are these motors particular on the type of fuel pump used? I should also note that the fuel gauge didn't work to the PO's knowledge and he only put $10 in at a time. The day before this happened I put a full tank in and to my surprise found the needle gauge to reflect the full tank. I'm thinking that it's not fuel related as it starts up strong each and everytime and after about 5 seconds settles to a lumpy idle.

I'm hoping that someone may be able to easily diagnose the issue given the odd and sudden onset of the stutter. I should add that I tried pulling the code using the paper clip method, and there is no breaks in blinking, there is 1 blink with a 5 second break in between, which honestly stumps me. Most of the other videos I've seen of this procedure show a clear break in the blinking of the CEL. Thanks in advance for the help.
4Runner.jpg Broken Starter.jpg
 
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v_man

Explorer
Are you sure you checked the right slots with the paperclip? And you didn't have the truck running ...

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/

Have you put a multimeter on anything ? You checked for fuel at the banjo bolt ? Checked compression? Checked your timing ? Milkshake in your radiator?

Those are all ez things to check before you start shooting parts at it . I recently had an intermittent stumble-then-die issue w/ my 90' 4runner . It was a bad igniter and coil .

You might know this but yotatech.com is also a great resource for diagnosis and help .... Best of luck
 

Rosco862003

Adventurer
Are you sure you checked the right slots with the paperclip? And you didn't have the truck running ... I'm certain I had them connected in the right slots, and no it was not running, but in the "ON" position

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/

Have you put a multimeter on anything? Will be putting a multimeter to the TPS tonight
You checked for fuel at the banjo bolt ? Didn't think to do that, so I'll check that tonight as well.
Checked compression? Not yet, need to pick up a gauge to do so.
Checked your timing ? No timing light, but I just checked Harbor Freight and they're only $32 so I might pick one up for the tool bag.
Milkshake in your radiator? No milkshake in radiator, first thing I checked after experiencing the misfire.

Those are all ez things to check before you start shooting parts at it . I recently had an intermittent stumble-then-die issue w/ my 90' 4runner . It was a bad igniter and coil .

You might know this but yotatech.com is also a great resource for diagnosis and help .... Best of luck

I've actually become well acquainted with Yotatech and believe I should probably make an account over there as well. I appreciate the help and hopefully can fix it soon.
 

1911

Expedition Leader
Check the timing and the TPS

That's the first thing I'd do (set the timing).

In general, if it only misfires in a certain rpm range it's probably a fuel issue; if it misfires at all rpms then it's more likely to be an ignition issue. There are exceptions to these, but it's a good place to start trouble shooting.
 

Rosco862003

Adventurer
Wasn't able to get much fiddling done last night, but in the event that my TPS is bad, are these trucks temperamental with brand, and is it in my best interest to stay OEM?
 

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
I would stay OEM. The 22re is pretty temperamental with electronics. I would suggest this as a good time to upgrade to the newer intake plenum.

Really I bet it's timing, but it's worth looking at the TPS anyways as they do need adjustment every once in awhile.
 
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Rosco862003

Adventurer
So after a month after dropping the 4runner off, the mechanic *thinks* that I have a bent rod(s). I'm unsure of my next step forward and thought I would come here to get some input and ideas. I should first start by saying that I first bought this truck about two months ago, had to put new tires, a starter switch and a starter before I could really drive it. Once all of that was done, I drove it for a week before it decided to completely lose steam while on the highway. I had it towed to a friend of a friends who happens to be a Toyota master mechanic. This was a month ago, and after much frustration in how long it has taken to get any word back on it, I'm now being told that I might have a bent rod. Before I lost power altogether I never heard any knocking or clattering at all, it just simply went quietly if you will.
My first question is how likely it is that my rod is bent, without hearing anything? He stated that when you hydro-lock an engine you typically don't hear anything. The truth is, I was driving down the highway when it died, and saw no signs of water on the dipstick after it died.
Second, I didn't have much time to access the vehicle and develop any kind of relationship with the thing, other than one of disappointment, disgust and failure, so even if I rebuild the engine, I don't know if anything else is set to self destruct. What would you do in my shoes? I paid $2500 for it, have another $550 into it and has no significant rust. I would hate to put another $1500 into it only to have the rear axle explode or something. Is it worth rebuilding or even replacing the motor on a vehicle you don't know much about?
Third and one that I think I have answered is if I need to take my truck elsewhere to be looked at?
 

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