Sun-Lite 865 Rebuild Project

[Mr4btTahoe]

Hey guys...

Fairly new to the forums.. been lurking around for a while and finally decided to join. Our original plans were to build a flat-bed slide in from scratch... however after getting a deal (I hope) on craigslist... my plans have changed.

Today, I got a '97 Sun-Lite 865 "hideaway" delivered to me for $900. The roof structure completely collapsed and needs fully rebuilt as do a few areas in the walls. Other then that (as if that aint too bad... lol).. it's in decent shape. It came with power jacks, heat, air, stove, fridge, water heater, toilet, shower, etc.. all of which work and are in good shape. The exterior is in solid shape as well.. no major dents in the siding, no busted windows, etc..

So here are some pictures of how it's starting....







Spent the evening gutting it... Got the AC unit off the roof (which was a lot of fun since there is literally no roof left... ) and got it tarped. Then started stripping everything inside.











I discovered (or think so anyways...) why the roof failed in the first place. The roof structure doesn't appear to have ANY framing other then some bits around the openings for the sky lights and the ac unit. The main structure was just 1/8" paneling glued to white foam. The AC unit was in the center of the roof. At some point, the vinyl roof coating had a slight leak which sagged the roof slightly in the center due to the weight of the AC unit. After that, it was all down hill as all the water would just pool in the center.

Anyways.. Hopefully I can get the fridge and the rest of the cabinets stripped out this week and see how much structural damage has been done. It looks like the majority of the wall framing is solid. Floor sheeting and framing is solid. The top runners where the roof was tied to the walls are shot.. but everything else seems OK. The previous owner also supplied me with the majority of the framing material to repair everything.

Plans are to cut out the roof... repair the wall framing... build the roof framing... insulate and fully re-skin the interior with something a little stronger then 1/8" paneling... (maybe 1/4" plywood). Skin the outside of the roof with 1/4" marine grade plywood (with doweled and glassed seams) and a few layers of epoxy. Then re-install what cabinets survive the deconstruction... rebuild those that don't... and re-install all the appliances.

It's going to be a LOT of work... but I figure I'm still saving myself a lot of time/money/headache by starting with this.. then starting from scratch.

Anyways, it'll be slow going for a few days as my work schedule is a bit tight coming up to the holiday weekend... but more will come soon. I'm also VERY open to suggestion or input on the work I'm doing.. etc..etc..

Thanks!

 

[kerry]

Many if not most truck camper roofs lack serious structural support. If I were you I'd put an arch in it during the rebuilding process and some serious structural support.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Not a bad idea. I'm not to knowledgeable on forming wood arches however... but I can do some research on that. Would it need to be substantial or could it be slight?

I was planning on 2x2 framing with 1.5" foam screwed and glued between layers of 1/4" marine grade... basically building a foam core composite roof.. then dowel and glass the seams.. and a few good coats of epoxy. I was going to do a flat roof.. but am open to ideas for sure.

 

[kerry]

My inclination would be to used a composite board of some kind like Coosa board, cutting the arches out of thinner material and laminating pieces together for strength. Maybe four or so arches for the whole span with joists between them. Personally I'd stay away from a plywood roof after looking at the plywood around the rim of my Northstar roof. I'd be tempted to use thin composite like Coosa board again for the top surface material. It can't rot. More expensive but much more durable.

 

[kerry]

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/225755-pro-s-cons-coosa-composities.html

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

I'll look into em'. Thanks

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Ok... from the looks of what I'm seeing, most arched roof campers don't have a substantial arch.. maybe a few inches. I'd say it would be easy enough to build the arch bows out of 1/2 marine grade (or thinner).. glued and screwed with cross bracing full width and some vertical supports. Basically.. an arched truss. Tie them together with 1x2s or 1x3s depending on height. Could also build them with a flat portion in the center at the top for the AC unit to sit flat.

Question is.. just how much arch would I need? In the center of the roof... how much higher should it be compared to the outer edges? 2"... 4"...? I wouldn't think it would take very much to get the water to run off. I could also build them with a slight overhang on the sides to help keep water runoff from running down the exterior walls all the time.

 

[kerry]

I'd think 2" would be more than adequate. I wouldn't build a truss, I'd just cut the arch out of Coosa Board or plywood, flat on the bottom, arched on top. If I wanted to lighten it up I'd drill some holes thru it with a hole saw.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Simple enough

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Talked to a buddy of mine who has been a general contractor for the last 40 years and basically has a private lumberyard (has been buying bulk material for years by the trailer load for dirt cheap because it was odds and ends..)

Anyways... he owes me a favor or 2.. so he stopped by and helped me layout the roof design and offered up the majority of the materials that I don't already have. Here's the plan...

The main bows will be cut from 1x6s... set 16oc. They will be ~2" higher in the center then on the outer edges and they will be notched to saddle the walls instead of just riding on them flat. The bows will be tied together via 1x2s on edge every 10-12". Roof will then be skinned with 1/4" marine ply, glued and screwed, with the seams and edges glassed/sanded... then a few coats of epoxy topped with Gacoroof silicone roll on.

I kinda want to integrate a flat area in the center of the roof structure to give the AC unit and solar panels a flat mount surface.. maybe 24 or 30" wide.

Reason for going with ply is availability in my area. If I find something different before I get the skin material.. I may go that route instead.

Anyways... once the roof it built, it will be fully insulated either using foam or fiberglass... what ever I can get my hands on that has a decent R value and is reasonably priced.

Doing it this way, all I'll have in it cost wise is the skin material and coatings.

Sound like a reasonable plan?

 

[kerry]

I'd say 16" on enter is overkill for a camper roof. It will get heavy quickly. There is very little structural framing at all in many camper roofs. I'd say 2' or 3' on center would be fine. I'm not an engineer.

 

[The Artisan]

I would make a solid foam 2" frp sip. Strong and light. Add marine grade wood supports on the perimeter that lines up to your bottom framing for attaching. No framing just make the sip and attach. Look at my pod. My roof is 12.4 x 7.4. My buddy is 150lbs and he stood on it with no flex, with a small roof footprint like yours it will be very strong.
Kevin

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

Great project! Check out my lance camper restore. You might find some ideas applicable to your build.

 

[UHAULER]

Great project! Check out my lance camper restore. You might find some ideas applicable to your build.

What happened to your camper ? All that work, did you end up using it ?

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

What happened to your camper ? All that work, did you end up using it ?

Ya all the time. Got it loaded up right now headed up north Friday to camp for the 4th. I'm finally going to spray the bed liner on it this summer. I got my dad's old Atwood Jacks this last weekend and helped him install his new electric Atwoods.