The Clambulance build.

groverdisco

New member
Well here we go! Just picked up my 2000 E450 type 3 Crestline ambulance. I have a UJOR kit to go in as soon as I can get it up on blocks. I'm going to try document the build as best I can to help out others and hope others will be able to help me!
Is going up 6" with the kit I got from UJOR with fox shocks, and custom rate springs. Also got the brake upgrade from u-joint, 8 piston caliper set. I have the transfer case sitting waiting as well as the front end with new 4.56 gears waiting to get set up, easier said then done! Lol. This will ultimately end up as a self contained RV for overland travel. I hope you guys will follow along and make suggestion and help with questions. Hoping to have this thing done for next spring to head out on a trip from Albeta to the coast all done on back dirt roads!

Here we go!!
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Buy the bits Chris uses, and plenty of cutting fluid. Drilling those holes is the single biggest beyoch of the whole job.

What size tires?
 

groverdisco

New member
I got the bits from Chris with my kit so no problem there. I'm not completely sure what I'm going to for tires on this thing? I'd like to go singles but duel rears are fine by me too. I really like the look of singles but at what cost for rims and tires? Totally open to ideas here.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
What bolt pattern is your rear axle, 8x170? I'm not sure when the changes are, but being a 2000 model year I'm guessing it's not 8x6.5.

Sticking with duals limits you a bit on tire sizes. They tend to get wider as they go taller, and fitting wider on dually rims means spacers between, and somewhat bulgy sidewalls. Tall skinny tops out around 35", and they don't come all that cheap.

Singles you can do pretty much whatever you want size wise, but most likely still need a spacer out back so you tire doesn't look so far back in the wheel well. Most an aesthetic thing.

Conventional Ujor wisdom says 35" max on a 6" lift without the need for trimming. I'm running 37", and while I see no need for real fender trimming, I did have to chop the bumper back, and there's a bit of inner fender/plastic fender liner liner that could use just a touch. The proper extended bump stops would negate the need even for that.
 

FDM2012

Adventurer
I thought they went to 8 x 170 in 99', but mine is a 2000, and it is 8 x 6.5 on all four.
Dana 60 Front and Dana 70 Rear. 4:10 gears in both.

I talked to Joyce @Quigley, and she said they would NOT have changed the rear end, so......??? I dunno!

For $100, I scored steel rims with 2'' offset that I am going to run 35's on. Eventually.

Our rear boxes appear to be the same width. This is about what SRW will look like on the rear, with a 2'' offset.
Right about where the outside DRW tire sits.

IMG_20160727_165757.jpg

IMG_20160727_170357.jpg

Not sure what the WMS of the Ujoint front would be....
 

huskyhauler

Adventurer
Man, I'm jealous of the 450. I really wish I could have found a 450 when I was in the market. I'm pretty well tapped out on the GVWR of my 350.

Take lot's of photos!
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
Man, I'm jealous of the 450. I really wish I could have found a 450 when I was in the market. I'm pretty well tapped out on the GVWR of my 350.

Take lot's of photos!

@huskyhauler What's your GVWR? Mine's 8800 lbs and I've only got about 5800 lbs to start with. My current spring packs are rated at 4000/side, and there are packs rated at 5000/side.

@GroverDisco How heavy is your rig? GVRW? Which wheelbase is it?
 

wagex

Adventurer
if you wanted to go to a 37" tire you can get the surplus double beadlock humvee wheels which are 8x6.5 and some 37" surplus tires on the cheap. atleast around here you can get a set of 5 for like $450+ depending on tread, and wheels like $20-40 each.
 
Last edited:

cjken

Explorer
That is what I was running originally
Nice things is you can retain the front dually hubs.
They are a bit noisy on highway. That is why I switched.
 

groverdisco

New member
Sorry for the late reply, I was actually out on the island for a family emergence. Looks like I could be relocating out that way soon to help take care of my wife's mother, not sure yet. Not too sure on what my rig weighs as it sit, never ran it across the scales. I was going to wait till I had her all put together and just before I start the rear camper conversion. I have a wheel base of 158" and the 8x6.5. I do have a bit of work to do on the cab before I can take this thing for the OOP inspection to register. I need to replace both drivers and passenger rockers and patch some floor holes on both sides. Not massive amounts of work but work none the less. I'm also going to build reinforcements to go between the cab mounts and the cab to help with strength in those areas. Middle cab mounts most importantly. So far I've striped the inside of the cab to expose the entire floor to address the rust problem. I will patch and then rust proof the floor and then sound proof it. I also removed the front fenders, grill and bumper. New front fenders are also in order due to rust. I see that some oil has collected in the valley so the turbo will be coming off. Also a couple broken exhaust studs will have to be replaced. Starting to source the couple of items that I need for the transfer case to go on as well, adapter, gaskets and speedo tone ring. Also going to have to come up with a emergency brake set up as the drive line drum will be eliminated. Chris at ujoint recommends a line lock in the rear brake circuit, lots of time to figure that one out.
Looks like slow and steady on this build. Again, thanks for all the tips and info you guys provide.
 

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