The perfect trailer?

precision powder

Backwoods Explorer
So I gave myself a new project for the winter; to build the most comprehensive, detail oriented, complete trailer for my Jeep.

While winter time is a fairly busy season for me in the shop, it also means that my trips are limited. Winter means I spend most of my time in my shop because I cannot take more than 12-24 hours off at a time.


In my quest to build the most complete trailer (something I can just back up to, fill with food, and leave with everything I need right there) I am here to ask you guys what features do you wish your trailer had? This will be a small trailer, typical small expo style. Yet at the same time I want it to be modular. I will be building a rack that will be able to be dropped on when needed.


Long I know, sorry about that.
The idea is to have everything at my fingertips without going so far as to get a camper/tear drop. I would still like to be able to use this for utilities jobs around here if needed, hunting, SAR, etc. The entire thing will be made from metal and will be powder coated top to bottom including all the smallest details to prevent any rust or anything of those sorts. Talking axle, frame, hinges, doors, knobs, nuts and bolts, rivets, brackets, mounts, jacks, rack, everything and anything will be coated.

I intend to have on board fuel storage at the front, water storage will be under the trailer itself. The water will be stored in 2 tanks below everything under a deck to keep the COG low. Fuel storage will be either a system to hold several jerry cans, or it will be a single aluminum race tank mounted towards the front. Either system will use a siphon or pump system for fuel transfer. Water will be filled via a port on the side behind a door.

I plan to also have on-board propane storage for a cook top, water heater, and the fridge. I am going a different route with the fridge here, rather than the electric units most people go with, I intend to use a fridge from a pop up camper. That way it will run off propane and I can leave it on for long periods of time without worry of batteries and solar charging to keep it running. The outdoor shower will also be from a pop up camper as well. While that can be used for showers I also intend to use that like the sink as well. I am thinking I can build a drawer right below it that will pull out and have a small stainless bowl sink in it. The shower head will act as the faucet. I have been toying with the idea of adding a small 3rd tank to use as grey water storage. That would allow me to empty that away from the camp site, no one likes to be standing on soggy ground. Propane will be stored outside but in a small cage that will keep it safe from any bumps or theft. The top will have a hinged locking top, that will keep people out from trying to take it or disconnect it, but it will also keep the water off the whole top where the most damage/rust could happen. The cook top will be on the side near the fridge/shower for ease of use. At this point the cook top will slide out from the side and a secondary slide out will house a prep surface.

Since I brought up power and solar the pumps will all be run on 12v pressure activated RV pumps. These will run off a house battery setup which will be stored low in the trailer which will charge off solar panels that will pull out of the side from a drawer. Rather than have them lay flat I will have them stand up with an adjustable pair of legs for maximum solar gain. This whole unit will be attached to a lazy susan of sorts to keep them facing the sun. Lights will be provided via LED (low light consumption) and will comprised of both white and red LEDs. I do go on several trips where the red light is beneficial. Especially when hunting at night, or going into stands/blinds early in the morning. The lights will all be accessible from a waterproof panel on the outside. If it is dark I do not want to fumble with keys and doors to get some light on. Along with the solar charging the batteries I will be running some heavy gauge wire from the front of my Jeep to the back where I can connect it to the trailer using winch quick disconnects. This means I can charge my vehicle battery off the trailer, or in the event the solar goes down I can charge the house batteries when I run my battery. Just need to do a bit of extra wiring on each end. All the rest of the electronics will be run through a central panel (which will have switched 12v outlets and switches 120v outlets run off an inverter) in a shallow pocket at the back of the trailer which is keyed (as all the doors will be). I will also have an onboard radio that will run off a marine head unit with waterproof speakers. Who doesn't like a little tunes.

While the rack will be removable it will likely stay on most of the time and it will have awnings built into it that will provide cover. The rack is planned to raise up for when camp is ready to be set up. That will produce the head room needed under the awing. I likely will only have one awning off to one side. The trailer its self will have 4 jacks that drop down to firmly set it and level it on the ground. This will double as a built in jack should a tire need to be changed. Speaking of changing tires, the goal is to have the wheels/tires be the same as I have on my Jeep and also have a swing out rear carrier with a spare for it. That also lends me the added benefit of a second spare for my Jeep. There will be tool mounting locations on the outside for axe/shovel/pry bar, but things like my highlift will have a covered mount. Last thing I need it for that or other tools to get damaged from water/mud/rust. There will also be two side mounted fire extinguishers, one on each side. I think it is silly to go without them.


The central portion of the trailer has yet to be determined. Either it will be enclosed or it will be open with a cover that drops onto it an locks in for waterproofing. This trailer will not have an RTT, instead it will have something a little different. I will have an arm that swings out (giant L shape) that I can attach my hammock to. One side will attach to the trailer, the other to the other end of the arm. To keep the trailer happen a foot will drop out of the bottom of the other end of the arm to support it on the ground and keep the strain on the trailer down. Think of it like a trailer jack, but more simple. Rain fly attachment points will also be built directly to the arm and trailer. To me this gives me a little extra flexibility on where I can set up, plus if I want to sleep under the stars I can. Also should I have plenty of trees I can use those instead. The arm could also be set down and used in conjunction with a tree or multiple trees to sleep many people in hammocks.

Since this will sometimes be used as a base camp for hunting trips I will have an on board CB. If someone stays back while others are out in the vehicles they will still have a means for communication with them as cell phones rarely work. I have an idea on how to have a table slide out and either lift up with 2 legs that come down, or slide out and twist flat with 2 legs to flip down to provide a little work or dinner area. Sometimes those roll top tables are just not quite what I want. I will still have one with me though.

I likely will build an OBA system for this trailer as well. Partly because I have everything to build a complete second setup but if something breaks on mine I will want it, or if I am gone and someone at base camp needs it they will have it. As with the water tanks the air tanks will be mounted under the trailer to maximize space up top. The compressor will be in a sound insulated box with 2 12v fans to keep it cooled (the fans will have small weather sealed doors over them to keep everything clean. I will also have a rear mounted winch attached directly to the frame of the trailer. The goal there being if I get stuck with the trailer on I do not need to mess with that dirty situation I can just pull myself out with the trailer itself. Also it would be excellent should I need to drag a moose out of the woods and for some reason do not want to use my Jeep for that. Who knows maybe the one on my Jeep dies. Included with the winch there will be d ring mounts front and back. The front mounts are going to be for tie down points for gear but I want it to match the rear. The rears would serve the same purposes the ones on the back of any rig would.

The rest of the trailer will be general storage. Some doors will have pull out trays, some dividers that will slide in and out. Last but not least an offset receiver hitch in the back. Offset because the winch will be in the center but the goal it to give me an ever adapting ability to add trip specific options. Bike rack, trail basket, step, etc.


This is all just in the planning/drawing stage but I want to build this once and I want to build it right. I will build all the tough stuff from steel and the rest from aluminum to save weight. What other things would you add/change. Is there anything on your trailer you dont have that you wish you did? This trailer will need to serve many purposes so some items many not get used on every trip but it will be there when a trip does call for it.
 

Curmudgeon

Adventurer
Perfection is in the eye of the beholder

The perfect trailer doesn't exist. If you build a trailer to your idea of perfection, it will not be perfect to everyone else. If you were to loan it to 100 people and ask for their opinion, a vast majority would have suggestions for improvements or changes. But it will still be perfect for you. We all have our own concept of perfection, and it rarely matches the concepts of even our closest friends. That's a good thing. I would hate to walk out of a store and try to find my own car in a parking lot full of 300 identical cars.

I'm not trying to offend you but if I do, so be it. I really can be a bit of a curmudgeon at times. You've been here less than two months, and you've already amassed well over half the number of posts I've made in more than six years. And I can guarantee you I'm not the only one here who has noticed. I'm just telling you what most of the people here are too polite to say, for fear of hurting your feelings.

I really do wish you the best of luck on this project, and I hope you end up with a trailer that matches your idea of perfection. Your trailer doesn't have to meet anyone's expectations buy your own. We should all be so fortunate. Most of us have never had a trailer or any other piece of equipment that we didn't want to change and improve in some way.
 

bonomonster

Adventurer
I think it's great that your really thinking everything through. I can agree with Curmudgeon that the perfect trailer is different for everyone. I have been in the planning stages of a trailer build for longer than I care to share, and through that time I have changed, redesigned, and scrapped ideas more times than I can remember.
You wrote that you want to put a rear swing out with tools and etc on the back, just remember that doing so can lighten the tounge weight considerably making the trailer difficult to tow, so be sure to compensate with weight up front.
You also plan to use an RV fridge. This is something I was planning also until I did much more research. I'm not a fan of spending crazy money on an ARB or similar fridge, but this is not a place to skimp. ARB style fridges are far superior to RV fridges in every way. There is a great article around here somewhere, I'll try and find it for you.
Good luck with the build. Keep us updated with pics and changes.
 

quickfarms

Adventurer
You have put a lot if thought into this.

My concern us that with everything you want to have in the trailer, it will not be small or light.

A small trailer means a small awning. A fly would probably work better.

A one piece lid would be lighter and simpler. You could set it up so it is also the rack and fly support. Using 4 support arms you could create a parallelogram that would lift the lid to open it, it would also move the same amount it is lifted.

For the jacks you could simply use two drop legs at the rear. You have your tongue jack at the front. If you want to level the trailer you can use you high lift jack.

Look into a max axe.
 

indiedog

Adventurer
Like a lot of others I've mulled over numerous designs, all of which at some point I thought would be the perfect trailer for my family. Things change, kids grow, your concept of what's important changes, and over years of camping you work out what exactly YOUR priorities are. The perfect trailer is the one that gets you out there. Just make sure your design doesn't get too convoluted or you'll find it too much effort to use. Work out what you need vs what you'd like on a rare occasion. Hopefully that will simplify it somewhat for you. I'd question if you need the OBA or the winch, both seem like a lot of effort/cost for very occasional usage. The hammock would be different for sure. Seems a bit crazy to go absolutely nuts on the details of the trailer, and then sleep in a hammock! :D

Good luck with it and I'll be interested to see what your version of perfect looks like.
 
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precision powder

Backwoods Explorer
Here's the fridge thread... Some very good info in here..

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130169

Thank you for the link. I will have to read through it all tonight and adjust as needed.

You have put a lot if thought into this.

My concern us that with everything you want to have in the trailer, it will not be small or light.

A small trailer means a small awning. A fly would probably work better.

A one piece lid would be lighter and simpler. You could set it up so it is also the rack and fly support. Using 4 support arms you could create a parallelogram that would lift the lid to open it, it would also move the same amount it is lifted.

For the jacks you could simply use two drop legs at the rear. You have your tongue jack at the front. If you want to level the trailer you can use you high lift jack.

Look into a max axe.

In theory it should still be fairly small (then again what I think is small may be different). The weight factor may become an issue but that is why I intended to make any non structural part from aluminum. The ability to be modular really comes into play here. The main portion on the trailer will remain the same but the rack would be able to come off, same with a lot of the external mounts and boxes. There are some portions of the electrical system that do not need to be in all the time such as solar and the batteries. Using quick disconnects i hope to build something where I can remove those quickly without it being too involved. Good call on the rain fly, I may be able to combine the aspects of both. Use silnylon as an awning, have it roll up on a fiberglass rod. To attach to the rack. I have looked at the max axe but I'm not sure that it is better/as strong as the normal tools.

Like a lot of others I've mulled over numerous designs, all of which at some point I thought would be the perfect trailer for my family. Things change, kids grow, your concept of what's important changes, and over years of camping you work out what exactly YOUR priorities are. The perfect trailer is the one that gets you out there. Just make sure your design doesn't get too convoluted or you'll find it too much effort to use. Work out what you need vs what you'd like on a rare occasion. Hopefully that will simplify it somewhat for you. I'd question if you need the OBA or the winch, both seem like a lot of effort/cost for very occasional usage. The hammock would be different for sure. Seems a bit crazy to go absolutely nuts on the details of the trailer, and then sleep in a hammock! :D

Good luck with it and I'll be interested to see what your version of perfect looks like.

I honestly much prefer sleeping in a hammock over a tent or rtt. It is just more comfortable to me, especially with my back which was wrecked when I got tboned then hit by a semi after that. While I dont NEED OBA I wouldn't mind having it. With this trailer serving as a base camp during hunting there are some things I will only use then. The winch is one case, the hunt for some animals definitely brings you to questionable ground. Having a winch makes taking a moose out of the woods much easier. A benefit of it being on the trailer is that if we take another vehicle that doesn't have a winch like my cj, one will still be available.
My same reasoning goes with the OBA. Either option would not cost me anything as I have both setups sitting in my shop collecting dust. The OBA I was thinking about housing in a tool box or a metal crate so it could come out with 4 bolts and a few quick connects on wiring and air lines. That would save weight when, it wouldn't be needed if my jeep stays attached or close by.

I am sure as with any build when I stay laying it out things will change, move, get deleted, or be simplified. I wont know til I reach that point. I try to plan as much a head of time as possible, when dealing with powder once it is all coated and put together making changes is a huge pain. If I wanted to make a change it is not as easy as spraying on some paint and calling it a day.

I guess I just have to see where it takes me, it should also be an excellent test on myself as well as develop and refine new skills.
 

precision powder

Backwoods Explorer
Would you be better off using stainless hinges and catches?
Look at marine suppliers.

I doubt it, stainless can still rust over time. They really would stand out I think as well. I want everything to tie together. A mini texture black would be excellent for the bulk of the parts on this build, including the hinges. Small parts like that are really not an issue.


This would be what I am doing the bulk of my parts that will see handling, abuse, or need to be grippy will be in this. Very tough, thicker than most other colors, and hides any wear (not likely to happen but you never know)

10403093_10152904604929879_3414760169889285026_n.jpg


10325697_10152816936704879_612889767782245379_n.jpg



The rest will be powder coated this (very close match I just need to add a tiny bit of gold pearl into it).

10641215_10152999483029879_5225329138149993189_n.jpg






Going with everything powder coated I should have something that will last forever assuming I do not physically break it.
 
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cwm

Observer
From my experience powder coating will not last forever. The problem is that in Colorado CDOT uses magnesium chloride on the roads. It is much more damaging than the usual road salt.

On my jeep the bumpers are powder coated. After 5 years they are rusting a lot. The rock rails, which I painted are in much better shape. With little rock chip the mag chloride gets under the powder coating and then you have a larger area rust under the powder coating.

I guess if you washed the vehicle every time you use it it might last longer. Hard to wash a vehicle in the winter when it is cold.

I am building a off road trailer and it will be painted.
 

precision powder

Backwoods Explorer
From my experience powder coating will not last forever. The problem is that in Colorado CDOT uses magnesium chloride on the roads. It is much more damaging than the usual road salt.

On my jeep the bumpers are powder coated. After 5 years they are rusting a lot. The rock rails, which I painted are in much better shape. With little rock chip the mag chloride gets under the powder coating and then you have a larger area rust under the powder coating.

I guess if you washed the vehicle every time you use it it might last longer. Hard to wash a vehicle in the winter when it is cold.

I am building a off road trailer and it will be painted.


That tends to happen when line shops coat parts. There is no prep work, they do not get fully cured, they are not phosphated, they also are not primed with a zinc coat.

I will be blasting everything with AO, doing a full phosphate treatment, zinc coating it, then powder coating it. Anything that will be under the trailer or is likely to see any abuse will be get two layers of powder on top of the zinc for an 8-10 mil thickness. I have powder coated parts on my jeep that get drilled with rocks and dirt every day they are still perfect. Same with bumpers on work trucks. They all get the same treatment. I had one fail but they ran into it with a fork on a forklift which gouged the metal in the process. I gave it a quick on site repair coat to clean it up. Its not as tough as it would have been but it does match the rest now.


When done correctly you can't beat it, that is why it is the coating of choice for so many industrial applications.


To address the salt issue. We use plain salt here, a standard powder is rated for 1000 plus hours of salt spray (5% solution) before it is compromised at that layer. Two layers makes a huge difference the zinc and phosphate will stop it in its tracks. I can post a video of my hitting a pipe with a hammer and it just denting, no chipping
 

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