The Saga continues...

[4Rescue]

So the new T-chain went in, my milage improved, power is up, and overall the engine is breaking in nicely....hopefully I won't have another issue there for a few hundred-K...

NOW: Still having the heat up issue as the engine warms up. I replaced the T-stat (it was bad) and now it doesn't heat up quite as much, but it's still get's up there than "Pops" and drops down to op temp. Plus this morning, when I started the truck up and took off, it sounded like someone was sucking a gallon of watwer through a straw (first acceleration from a stop) what the hell could that be???

AND!!!!!!!!!! now I have this annoying "rattle" as I'm going down the road. I've checked all the major suspension pieces, I've even taken a malett to the underside of the truck to try and figure out where it's coming from. I guess maybe it could be awheel bearing, but man this is getting annoying. Any guess what could be loose under there???

Cheers

Dave

 

[corax]

NOW: Still having the heat up issue as the engine warms up. I replaced the T-stat (it was bad) and now it doesn't heat up quite as much, but it's still get's up there than "Pops" and drops down to op temp. Plus this morning, when I started the truck up and took off, it sounded like someone was sucking a gallon of watwer through a straw (first acceleration from a stop) what the hell could that be???

AND!!!!!!!!!! now I have this annoying "rattle" as I'm going down the road. I've checked all the major suspension pieces, I've even taken a malett to the underside of the truck to try and figure out where it's coming from. I guess maybe it could be awheel bearing, but man this is getting annoying. Any guess what could be loose under there???

the water noise was most likely an air pocket trapped in the heater core, I've seen it on different brands. It will eventually purge itself, or you can jack up the front end ~2' and open the raditator cap to let any air out of the system (use a radiator funnel for less mess). The temp problem may also be an air pocket in the system, air doesn't transfer heat as well as coolant and could be causing "localized overheating"

the rattle probably isn't a wheel bearing. bad bearings will "howl" or sing to you constantly when at speed and change pitch as you make a left or right turn (loading one side vs the other). make sure any exhaust heat shields aren't too close to the pipes & that the bolts are all tight. I've also had a few rattle type noises from pebbles stuck in a heat shield

what part of Oregon are you in? I may be moving up to Ashland/Medford area in a few months

 

[DaveInDenver]

The temp problem may also be an air pocket in the system, air doesn't transfer heat as well as coolant and could be causing "localized overheating"

This is a pretty good piece of advice. You have the 22R-E if I recall and the temp sender is on top of the intake, between #2 and #3 intake runner. It's got the spade connector on it, near the thermostat housing. Anyway, when you have an air bubble in our engine, it tends to often sit right there and cause the temp gauge to act weird. This can also be the cause of a weird running engine, having an air bubble stuck right there because on the front of the intake, to the lower right of the throttle body, is the EFI temp sender (it's got a green plug on it) and when an air bubble sits there it confuses the ECU since it thinks the engine is hotter or colder than it really is. Gives peoples fits tracking that one down sometimes. Burp the cooling system and I bet things get happier.

 

[ntsqd]

Look at the firewall on the driver's side. Is there a valve there plumbed into the heater hoses? If so, that is your heat control valve. On my turbo truck it's factory mounting makes it the highest point of the system (an inch or more higher than the radiator cap). This is NG, but there's no easy cure for it either. I find that I have to open up the upper hose, with no pressure in the system (!), and pour water in there. Doesn't take a lot. That cures my truck's gurgling in the heater core.

Have a look at the heat shields bolted to the underside of the body and to the frame near the exhaust. I've got one that fractured two of it's mount tabs and would make the most horrendous noise when the conditions were *just* right and it would vibrate.

 

[4Rescue]

Thanks guy's, I've been thinking about the Air bubble issue, I thought I purged the system, but anything is possible eh (and I like so many of us I can screw anything up as well)

I live in Portland, but I'm a travel lover so drop me a line.

As far as the rattle, it's not specifficlay when I hit a bump, it seems to just happen as the chassis shimmys with road texture. I thought I had found something, namely a huge thick washer between the fuel tank and skid (and I CAN'T figure where THAT came from!!!) but NO, the noise persists. Tomorow, I'm going to jack the truck up off the wheels and see if I can re-create the noise when the tires are hanging free. I will also be going over every single bolt I can see/touch and a few I may have to dig for.

Thanks You guy/gals are great

Dave

 

[ntsqd]

My noise was more triggered by how hard I was leaning on the engine, and at what rpm's I was doing it. Can not recall any road surface ever causing it.
HTH....

 

[corax]

it's factory mounting makes it the highest point of the system (an inch or more higher than the radiator cap). This is NG, but there's no easy cure for it either. I find that I have to open up the upper hose, with no pressure in the system (!), and pour water in there. Doesn't take a lot. That cures my truck's gurgling in the heater core.

Prestone makes a "Flush Kit" that fits the heater hose very well - you can find it in most part stores for less than $10. You "T" it into a heater hose & it has a screw cap on it to open up the system (it allows you to use a garden hose to flush out the system). On my last truck I put one on & just unscrewed the cap, with the engine off, to purge the system.

 

[4Rescue]

Prestone makes a "Flush Kit" that fits the heater hose very well - you can find it in most part stores for less than $10. You "T" it into a heater hose & it has a screw cap on it to open up the system (it allows you to use a garden hose to flush out the system). On my last truck I put one on & just unscrewed the cap, with the engine off, to purge the system.

I may have to look into that if the jack the truck up and "burp" it method doesn't work out

Oh yeah, the other thing I forgot about is the Damn back window... Litteraly THE most annoying thing on these Gen1's has to be the damn rear window. Mine worked intermitantly and could be coaxed to go up and down when leaning on the Gate and using the outside key switch on teh Gate. Well, those days are over. Now I've got climb in the back, tear off the trim panel and check the relays... I did jump them ala 4Crawler so that I had power all the time even w/o the keys in the ignition. I am literaly racking my brain trying to figure a way to take the interior skin off the gate and jump it with batery to get power to it to open it so I can work on it. Better yet, I wish I could add just the hub and mechanism of a mechanical window on the outside and just have a detachable crank to lower/raise it... It's really lame to have a truck you cant get into the back of...really lame.

SO any bright ideas on how to get this thing at least open? I know I can get into the gate frominside and "screw" with the assembly, more specificaly the toothed gears that the window arms ride up and down on. I've done tis beofre to get the wondow to line up with the top after I first bought it, but... that makes me nervous because you end up having to fiddle with it alot to get it to go up and down evenly and not slip and get out of alignment. this is mostly because you nhave to reef of the geared bits to literaly make them un-mesh which the factory never intended. I've read over all of 4Crawlers troubleshooting info, and franly something I'd add would be the Latch mechanism. I have a real suspiscion tha tthe wiring and the switch in the latch that tells the window the gate is closed and can therefore operate goes bad or breaks a wire. When I finess the gate by leaning on it, it's the left corner right under the glass that I push on. I can hear the realy click and the window works. now I'm getting no click co I'm hoping it's the relays. Knowing me it won't be...

Cheers

Dave

 

[DaveInDenver]

On my turbo truck it's factory mounting makes it the highest point of the system (an inch or more higher than the radiator cap).

Yup. This is where I put the flush-n-fill tap on my truck. On the return hose from the heater core, opposite the heater control valve.

View attachment 16520

 

[ntsqd]

Only thing is, I don't dare use local tap water in the coolant system. Going to distilled has been a small PITA but worth every penny in terms of cooling system longevity. I can now rot the fins out of a radiator before it needs to be rodded out.

 

[corax]

Oh yeah, the other thing I forgot about is the Damn back window... Litteraly THE most annoying thing on these Gen1's has to be the damn rear window.

try lightly pushing the rear wiper arm up into the "park" position. there's a switch in the rear wiper motor that will prevent the window from going down if it isn't all the way up. You know about the 4crawler article, so you know about the switch in the LS bed rail. you can also use 1" of wire with 2 male spade connectors to bypass that switch (you might be able to reach it through the spare tire jack opening)

 

[4Rescue]

SILENCE!!!!!!! So I got under there and right away, I could tell the right front lower shock bolt didn't look right. Put a socket on it turned and... odd, I never knew that nuts and bolts were quick disconnect somehow I managed to break the old bolt and it was rattling around as the truck flexed over the terrain. so I went and got a nice grade 8 bolt from my dads "endless supply of stuff we never thought we needed but seem to use quite often"... I put a fender washer on the back and a split/lock washer up front. belt and suspenders I know, but I dont want to deal with it again. That made me happy, and I drove back to my place windows (front ) down enjoying the quiet and amazing ride the truck has going on now.

That's something I'm just constantly grinning about in this truck. at 250+K on the body/chasis, this truck is pretty quiet in terms of rattles and stuff. The rear gate makes some noise when you go over really big bumps, but the dash is rattle free, the body doesn't creek and groan, it really is holding up like no other truck I've ever owned. Add into that the new suspension, the new motor, and with some interior fix-ups, it's like having a brand new truck. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, when the time comes to buy another truck, I'll be taking my money and buying an older toyota and droping in whatever diesel I decide on and doing the suspension to my needs. I literaly can'y see the use in buying new. it's just not for me. While the interiors are nice and quiet these days, I just don't feel like they make small trucks of this caliber anymore. Mater of fact I've been really mulling over the idea of finding an older truck (not sure of what gen or model but it won't be newer than a 95 and it will be a toyota) and just stashing it in the barn for the time being.

try lightly pushing the rear wiper arm up into the "park" position. there's a switch in the rear wiper motor that will prevent the window from going down if it isn't all the way up. You know about the 4crawler article, so you know about the switch in the LS bed rail. you can also use 1" of wire with 2 male spade connectors to bypass that switch (you might be able to reach it through the spare tire jack opening)

Good thought on the wiper arm. I have cleareneced the ramp that the wiper arm rides up on when it's off so that it doesn't have such a hard time going back to up and stowed. I know there's a bolt in the top that is a "safety" so that the window can't go up with the top off, but with the way I've had to "finesse" it I've always had it in my head that it's been the wiring up into the gate or the "switch in the left latch of the gate. I will however be taking your advise and probably bypass the switch in the bed rail. I bought new relays when I got the truck thinking they were what was causing the problem. It wasn't so I now have extra relays which I really hope is the problem because its the most painless thing to work on with the rear window in this state.

Cheers and thanks

Dave :safari-rig: