Tips on Fiberglass Work -Hummer Camper

[Fresno]

For a short period of time a Hummer camper shell was produced for the two door extended cab. I have one and need to modify it to fit a four door soft top Hummer H1.

Here is a photo of it on the two door model attached.

I have an idea as to what need to be removed to make it fit. I have not worked with fiberglass much (I made a surf board in collage). What would be the best way to join flat panels together? Any links to basic techniques would be appreciated.

 

[Fresno]

This is the four door soft top I want to adapt the camper to. One challenge will be to fit the camper without removing the rear of the roll cage.

 

[FlatBlak]

If you have 2 panels that you want joined together, say a butt them up to one another, it's not that difficult.

First you want the edges being joined to be roughed up. I typically use a small wire wheel on low speed to feather out the edges about 1/4" or so. Not a total knife edge but close. Do this on each side of each panel all the way around the joining seam.

Next is to set the panel in place. Use whatever you can make work, tape, wood blocks, diapers, etc. Anything porous will soak up the resin and that's not always a bad thing. The most important thing to remember is have the panel perfectly lined up where you want it. You can lay down duct tape on whatever you don't want the resin to stick to, support blocks, etc...shiny side to resin of course.

The last small panel I layed I simply taped the seam with painters tape behind the joint. Layed the panel down on the ground and filled in the joint with resin, then layed some mat down, more resin and viola. Don't worry about strength, as long as you have roughed up sections being joined the new resin will be just as strong as original.

Now...sand sand sand sand sand sand sand it, body filler, sand sand sand, wet sand, wet sand, wet sand, paint, drink.

 

[Fresno]

Thanks. I've been looking at vids on youtube so I think I follow what you are saying. As I understand it I will shave/sand both pieces down at and angle and place the points of the angle against each other. This should form a shallow "V" between the two sheets. Then resin, mat, resin, sand, ect.

Correct?

 

[FlatBlak]

Yes, the bevels are to allow more contact area for resin adhesion. The more time spent with setup and execution the less finishing work that is needed. If you lay on 1/4" extra of mat and resin it will take a lot of sanding to get it back down to where you want it.

Tips on sanding, stop before you think you would! If you start with 60 grit on a built up area you need to leave some material to sand away with your 100, 220, 400 adn 800 grit down the road.

You will sand too much and have to build it back up and start again....guaranteed! Everybody does it, including guys that do it everyday for a living. Don't get discouraged though, patience is key.

My process is to lay resin and mat for the main fill. Then short strand fiberglass filler for any areas that need built up for asthetics. Then body filler only to cover up pin holes and any low spots less than 1/8". If you can get it all with the short hair then great, but it doesn't happen very often due to air bubbles, etc.

The sequence also follows the hardness of the materials. Pure resin is harder to sand than the short strand, and body filler is very soft, no need for anything rougher than 220 if using a DA.

 

[Capt Sport]

Hey Fresno,

Have a look around here: http://fiberglassforums.com/

Lot's of good info and people that are willing to help. Not knock'n Expo as I love this place, but I think you might get more help over at FF.

Note: Mod's if it's not allowed to cross post other web forums please delete.

 

[psychohawk]

Not to sound silly, but would it be easier to convert your truck to the two door model? Parts might be a bit hard to come by though, huh?

Also, you mentioned wanting to keep the roll bar, but I noticed the camper sits quite a bit higher than the roll bar. Are you also planning to shorten the camper, so it doesn't sit as high?

 

[Fresno]

Not to sound silly, but would it be easier to convert your truck to the two door model? Parts might be a bit hard to come by though, huh?

Also, you mentioned wanting to keep the roll bar, but I noticed the camper sits quite a bit higher than the roll bar. Are you also planning to shorten the camper, so it doesn't sit as high?

It actually would not be that hard to convert to a two door. Basically just remove the rear seats. The door and floor panels are easy to get or fab. But as you noted I like the roll bar and the extra seating comes in handy.

I have started to fit the camper. The rollbar is 4 inches higher than the top on a two door so some fabing to raise the height will also be needed. I will post photos when I get a rough fit.

 

[UK4X4]

if your but joining 2 panels and using it on a truck..........vibration-shock stress,

a butt join with just resin will break-crack in an offroad enviroment

Its the fibers that give fiberglass the strength, resin on its own is quite brittle

If I wanted a flush joint I would sand or router both sides of both panels 1.5 to 3mm deep 1.5 -2" in from the edge depending on how thick the panel is

then lay in 4" wide fiberglass tape or mat and build back up to surface on both sides.

If your not worried about the join showing then just matt on both sides after sanding down to matt on both sides.

Background....fixed a few boat hulls in my time, including hovercraft-jetski and the like.

Like others...prep and care mean less sanding, less sanding means less itching !