Traxide dual battery system - Which version to get?

[srschick]

looking into adding a second battery for onboard device use, such as fridge or on-board electronics.
I'm a bit confused with the different versions available.
What I'm looking for is a kit that will allow me to run the extra equipment off the extra battery, while leaving the original battery for "normal vehicle needs". Preferably without having to toggle an in-cabin switch.

 

[dwh]

Never heard of the Traxide. Looking at the web page, I don't much like it. It keeps both batteries tied until the cranking battery is down to 12.0v.

There are several issues with this. For one thing, both batteries had better be identical size, age, type, etc. I'd rather have a dedicated cranking battery for the engine, and a dedicated deep cycle for the aux loads.

If you want a smart isolator, I'd suggest you'd be better off with a National Luna or a Blue Sea.

 

[ZG]

What vehicle is this?

 

[srschick]

What vehicle is this?

LR3

 

[umbertob]

D3 Kit-BS is the one you want. It will add a new 12V socket in the trunk and also allow you to convert the existing 12V socket there to both run off the auxiliary battery instead of the cranking one. I installed a kit in my LR4 and, although install was a bit of a PITA (partly because the LR4 is more challenging than the LR3, you need to "make room" for a spare battery in the engine compartment), the setup is great.

 

[David.gamble]

National luna with two odyssey batteries is the set up I use. To be honest all these kits are horrifically over priced. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost and you'll learn loads.

Follow the link below.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/wiring-split-charge-relay-system-61268.html

 

[Colin Hughes]

I've been using a Sure Power unit for a few years now in my vehicles (D1, D2, P38)to charge the 2nd deep cell battery that powers my fridge, etc. It was about $75 plus the #8 gauge cable to run from the batteries to the Sure Power. I haven't gotten around to installing it in my LR3 yet but I think it should work just fine there too. The nice thing about the Traxide is the cables are all cut to length and finished but you pay for that.

 

[superbuickguy]

I use a TMaxx battery isolator. It works really well. It ties the batteries together to be charged, but won't tie them together unless you press the button to jump between them.

 

[PhyrraM]

I forget the details, so you'll have to do some research, but there is a reason most universal automatic battery isolators/switches are not recommended to be used in a LR3/4. It has to do with the ECU controlled charging rate. The alternator does not have a traditional voltage regulator. The ECU controls the alternator output with a PWM signal and it outputs variable voltage/amperage based on many factors the ECU sees (RPM, engine temp, ambient temp, running time, voltage, load, etc..). Basically, the charge voltage changes as needed and the "isolation" voltage of an aftermarket switch needs to accommodate for predicable operation.

To my knowledge (I could be remembering wrong) the Traxide kit is the only relay where the logic takes this into account.

 

[psykokid]

Here's a couple of traxide installs in an LR3 and LR4. You might be able to ping the OP's of these threads and see which model they went with.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/134713-Dual-Battery-Installation-in-LR3
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/111179-Traxide-dual-battery-kit-on-LR4

 

[mpinco]

Good info PhyrraM


I would be asking some questions of Traxide. Per their website - "The SC80 has been in production for more than 20 years since it is was first introduced" Relatively old technology, repackaged?

A basic battery isolator + custom cables for your vehicle.

I went Blue Sea marine product SI-ACR for engine and trailer (house) config, along with m-Series switch. They do offer the Add-A-Battery Kit - 120A, wiring / install up to you.

 

[dwh]

To my knowledge (I could be remembering wrong) the Traxide kit is the only relay where the logic takes this into account.

Heh. Logic? What logic?

From their web page:

"Cut-In at 13.1v, Cut-Out at 12.0v."

http://www.traxide.com.au/isolators/sc80---90-amps-standard.html


All it does is keep the batteries tied until they both drop to 12.0v, so they both drain together and after the 12.0v cut-out, the engine battery is down by half and still has (hopefully) enough juice to start the truck.

Once the truck is started and the engine battery gets back up to 13.1v, it ties them back together. Rinse and repeat.

Since both batteries are basically tied full-time as a single battery bank, the batteries have to be identical. No "cranking battery" for the engine and "deep cycle battery" for the aux loads. That's what I personally don't like about it, though I don't think it'd be a problem for people who don't put a hefty drain on the aux battery when camping, as I do.

 

[dwh]

Also, from that same web page, this part is somewhat deceptive:

"Sheared [sic] current loads, by spreading the current draw over two batteries, each battery's current load is only around half that required from a battery in an ordinary dual battery system ( including DC/DC type set ups ). So again your batteries are much more likely to have a longer life span."


A) The two batteries must be identical - since they are tied into a more or less full-time battery bank - and since at least one will have to crank over the engine, they will both have to be "cranking type" batteries.

B) Cranking batteries are designed to be drained only a couple of percent (usually less than 5%) to start a vehicle, and then be immediately recharged. They last a long time in that use. They DO NOT last a long time when repeatedly drained to 50%.

C) "Deep cycle type" batteries are designed to be repeatedly "deeply" drained (50% being the average recommendation) and will last a LOT longer than a "cranking type" battery when deeply drained.


So, that quote above would be true ONLY IF: Both batteries were assumed to be cranking batteries. In that case, then yes, a pair of them will last longer being repeatedly drained to 50% than one would last being repeatedly drained to 100%.

But that ain't saying much - because no cranking battery will "last longer" being drained to 50% than it would only being drained the 5% it was designed for.


Using a cranking battery for cranking only, it will last a long time.
Using a deep cycle for deeply cycling it will last a long time.
Deeply cycling a pair of cranking batteries will shorten the life of the cranking batteries.

 

[srschick]

looking at the other posts, it looks like the D3-BS or BU is indeed the one I should look at. I may be installing a winch in the near future, so I'll probably look at the higher rated unit (BU).
I don't plan to haul a trailer, so the FPC part is not needed.

 

[unseenone]

I do not recommend the ARB, having installed one for a guy in town. I have the Traxide SC80, but ordered the 160 and haven't installed it yet. I did a group buy with a few guys a few months back to save on shipping from Australia. If you want Tim's e-mail address drop me a PM, and then you can e-mail him.

I do recommend the Traxide system. I do not have identical batteries.