(un)Planned Mississippi to Managua venture / 1982 VW jetta diesel

[sierra madre]

Three strangers, one 1982 1.6L Diesel Powered Jetta, a trailer full of supplies, and a Kawasaki KLR 650 motorcycle. Destination: Managua, Nicaragua. Today travel is common, we all do it, so what makes this trip different? We have three people, myself (Lacy Greer) who will be documenting about our experience, Eli Baylis, a photojournalist who has traveled the world looking for adventure, and Amanda Braun, a ski instructor with a tongue for Spanish.

Three Amigos. Mean Muggin'



Sierra Madre Research, a company that is the creation of Richard and Juli Rhett, has brought us together. The Rhetts and Sierra Madre Research have promised to give back to the country of Nicaragua by providing fair paying jobs to local families and bringing clean water to areas in need. Something that is dear to all of us. We are starting this trip off practically strangers, and have chosen to brave the dangerous border towns of Northern Mexico, the rain forests of Guatemala, and rough streets of Honduras in hopes of bringing a few supplies for SMr to use down in Managua.

Much of the course we have chosen to take follows the very inspiration for the naming of Sierra Madre Research. Stretching from southern Arizona to Honduras The Sierra Madre mountain range passes through Mexico, Guatemala, and El Salvador along the way. These mountains cover a massive range of our world’s culture and affect so many lives with their adventure and beauty. Like a spine running through a body of land, the Sierra Madre range connects North America to Central America; which symbolizes Sierra Madre research’s mantra: advocating adventure, connecting people to people, and bringing hope to the hopeless. People, culture, nature, and adventure are a few of the things SMr is passionate about, and the mountain range symbolizes these passions spot-on.



We are sure to hit a lot of literal and figurative potholes along the way, but are hoping that the local communities will lend a hand when we are in need. With any luck we will be able to capture a fraction of this experience along the way and share it with anyone looking for first hand accounts of traveling in the dynamic region of Latin America!


Let the Adventure Begin!

 

[sierra madre]

Proper Introductions

Eli Baylis, photographer by profession and adventurer by life, is a man with vigor for a challenge and a heart for people. Eli left his lucrative lifestyle as Chief Photojournalist at the Vicksburg Post, to come on full time with SMr in Nicaragua. Though Eli was typically found either jetting around town on his red KLR, camera bag on side and fedora on top, or laid back with an ice cold Laughing Skull on the porch of his Antebellum Mansion, Eli’s true passion is quite the opposite. Comfortable living is not where Eli belongs, it’s in the hut of a village, elbow deep in the mud while a new well is being built, walking side-by-side, barefoot, on the dirt roads of a third-world country as a villager reveals his past struggles and future aspirations. Eli craves life without borders. He’s a storyteller, but he doesn’t want to simply capture a photo, or write a story and be done with it, he desires to truly live it first.

​

Eli has certainly lived the life of a vagabond traveler setting his paces towards untold stories and hidden places. After much work and play in his own country, voluntarily putting roofs on houses, cattle farming in South Mississippi, alligator wrestling and snake wrangling on Lake Washington, hiking the Appalachian Trail, and fully appreciating the beauty of his homeland one coast to the next, Eli packed up his life into one pack and a camera bag and headed overseas.

Africa: Eli headed to Nairobi, Kenya where he worked as an outdoor living instructor, lived in a dung hut for a bit, and traipsed around the Savannah in his off time. You can see the glimmer in his eye as he takes you on a journey alongside him, in remembering Africa. “I stayed with the Maasai tribe for a while, just cutting up with them, eating, dancing, and hanging out. They allowed me to join in a marriage dance one night. The dance consists of jumping in one spot, each trying to jump higher than the other. They were so impressed with this white boy’s ups that they bestowed a handmade tribal necklace upon me as a congratulate prize for being able to keep up.” Eli became close with the tribe Chief during that time who soon challenged him to a bow and arrow competition. The onlookers were amazed as Eli championed the competition. The Chief regarded him with a stern face, which cracked into a smile, and then a laugh. Bidding his farewell to the tribe, Eli moved on to the next venture, kayaking a portion of the Nile river. “You could ride, balls to the wall, through the rough white water sections, but it was the calm waters where every slight movement mattered. I had to stay completely straight and still through these sections, knowing that to tip over could lead to a risky encounter with a man eating reptile.” Eli had his spats with southern US gators, but in these waters, he was simply a vienna sausage appetizer to a 18ft, 1,500lb Nile crocodile.

Eli especially enjoyed the time he spent rock climbing in Hell’s Gate, and camping out in the safari grasslands. “One evening, right as the sun dropped below the horizon, we spotted a good bit of movement heading our way. We soon realized it was a troop of baboons, a hundred or so, moving fast on a mission to ransack our campsite. It’s happened before, and they take everything we have to survive, while showing no mercy, so this time we were ready. We posted up on a plateau with a three-man operated water balloon launcher, and as they grew near, we began catapulting rocks their way. It seemed to hold them back a bit, but these aggressive soldiers with opposable thumbs were relentless. We thought we had turned them away when the alpha climbed up the cliff towards us and perched on a rock face 100 feet away. He was a big bad dude, but we had him; queued in, lock and fire!! We watched in complete dismay as the small boulder we launched blazed towards him. He didn’t budge, he didn’t blink. He simply shot a hand up, caught it midair like a Bruce Lee move, never deflecting his stare from our faces, and sent it soaring back in our direction. The troop did move on, but we knew and he knew, that he had bested us.”

Performing Maasai Tribal Marriage Dance. This white boy's got ups!


Bow and arrow competition with Maasai Tribe Chief. Target was a Redbull can
​

India: Eli spent time in Calcutta, India volunteering in an orphanage for mentally handicapped boys in the morning, a physical therapist at an open wound clinic in the afternoon, and caretaker in a sick and dying facility at night. "Yea. I never ate. I couldn't. They needed me." Said Eli. Though he found himself, time after time, in dangerous situations that might have claimed his life, it was here, in Calcutta, that Eli stared death in the face. He met an Indian man in town, they hit it off and chatted for a bit, then the man invited him back to his village to meet his people. Of course Eli agreed, not truly realizing what he was getting himself into. After a long taxi ride, turned into a long train ride, turned into a haul in the back of a truck, turned trek on a three-wheeler, and a short walk, they finally arrived. Eli was not prepared for this, he expected a short travel time and basically only brought the shirt on his back. Eli was feeling a bit strange and woozy, but continued on to meet the elders of the village. Soon after he suddenly threw up and passed out. And that was the last he remembered. Severe Dehydration. The heavy setting sun had pelted him all day, and the dry dusty air coated his lungs and parched his tongue. He was blacking in and out and there was not a hospital within two days travel time. The next Eli remembered was laying in a hotel, of which he had no idea how he got there, in a bed of sheets soaked in his own sweat. The door slowly opened and a doctor entered. He gave Eli a shot, and exited just as quickly and mysteriously as he arrived. Eli would not have survived had this phantom doctor not appeared, however, he never paid him, talked to him, or even saw him again.

Man at tea in India who led Eli to his village

​

Haiti and Grenada: After the earthquake in Haiti, Eli took a taxi ride across the island documenting the disaster and helping as he could. He also served in a homeless shelter in Grenada, Spain. But these are stories best saved for another time.

Two boys after the earthquake in Haiti. by Eli Baylis

​

Why did he choose to join SMr?

“I support the way SMR chooses to run their business. Their passion for responsible business practices, like providing good paying jobs to people that need them and funding clean water for communities in undeveloped regions but also for their adventurous spirit.

I spent years volunteering with mission organizations and charities in undeveloped parts of the world and know first hand both the enormous need and incredible potential for companies like SMr.” - Eli Baylis

 

[sierra madre]

Proper Introductions - Lacy Greer

Lacy Greer - Logistics Volunteer

Originally from Arizona, Lacy pursued post-secondary education as a recruit for the Navy NUC program in Charleston, South Carolina before he moved to Seattle to start a degree in chemical engineering. While in Seattle, Lacy was passionate about volunteering his time for the Puget Sound Blood Center and the Banaroya Research Institute.
​

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He first started speaking Spanish when he enrolled in a language school in Costa Rica and also enriched himself by getting certified as a yoga-instructor in Puerto Vallarta. Enthralled with the wildlife and Central American culture, Lacy worked as a volunteer for 4 months rehabilitating the sea turtle population in Coasta Rica.​

Yoga instructor in Puerto Vallarta




Constructing a hatchery for sea turtle eggs with a group of international volunteers in Costa Rica

Lacy soon moved to Dutch Harbor off the coast of Alaska and got hooked on the Great North. He later returned to work in the tourism industry for three summers allowing him to extensively explore Alaska and the Yukon.​

Kayaking across a fjord in Whittier, Alaska

Lacy worked as a tour director and supervisor for an Alaskan tour company during 2011-2013. He spent any extra minute he had exploring Alaska and rock climbing​

.

Exploring Matanuska Glacier in AK

Lacy wrapped up his Alaska job this year on September 24th and quickly joined the SMr team at a rock climbing competition in Arkansas on the 26th.​

Lacy likes to integrate yoga with rock climbing : )

Lacy is passionate about environmental sustainability and interacting with people from different backgrounds and points of view. His passion for Latin American culture and the ability to positively change people’s quality of life led Lacy to join SMr as a volunteer.​

Starting a compost process in Montezuma.




Holding a few monkeys in St. Kitt


​

 

[Quest4ADV]

Subscribed. Sounds AWESOME. Good luck and have FUN!

 

[sierra madre]

Proper Introductions - Amanda

Amanda Braun- SMr International Relations Volunteer

Growing up in the suburbs, Amanda left the Minneapolis area to pursue her education at Colorado State University. She earned degrees in Spanish and Sociology, with minors in Latin American Studies and International Development.​

Climbing into a temple in Sukothai, Thailand

Her love of Colorado and skills on the slopes led to a job as a ski instructor in Aspen where she has worked for five seasons. Amanda has traveled South America studying abroad in Chile, working at a backcountry ski resort in the shadow of Anconcagua, and finessing her Portuguese in Brazil.
​

Backcountry Skiing in the Andes





Standing in the shadow of Mt. Everest

While attending Colorado State University Amanda volunteered with Engineers Without Borders in El Salvador working to help two small villages gain access to clean water. For her undergraduate thesis she focused on new and changing water privatization utility policies in El Salvador. She also had worked as a volunteer with Experience Himalayan Nepal where she helped install water filters in a slum area of Kathmandu.​

Backpacking Patagonia (Torres Del Paine)

Cross-cultural understanding is a cornerstone for her education and she is excited to continue her work in Central America. Her passion about securing clean water for people and fluency in Latin American culture and language makes her a pitch-perfect match for SMr team in Nicaragua.
​

Getting a tikka blessing from her nepali grandparent





Waterfall in Singaraja, Indonesia





Amanda at Machu Picchu





Holding an armadillo in Uyuni Bolivia


​

 

[trailsurfer]

Looking forward to following along on your trip.

 

[sierra madre]

53 Miles to the Gallon turns 25

Day 1 - Vicksburg, MS to New Orleans.

The SMr Team (minus Amanda) together for the last time before heading our separate ways en-route to Nicaragua

Myself, Lacy Greer (SMr Logistics Volunteer) and Eli Baylis (SMr's Photojournalist) wrapped up some last minute details, said our goodbyes, and began chuggin' down the road in our old trusty rusty. We call her Shaky Shakira, she's a 1982 VW Jetta that we scored for $300. She's the faithful steed we're driving down to Nicaragua from Vicksburg, MS. She was chosen for the sole fact that a VW Jetta built in the 1980's happens to be one of the most common vehicles in Central America. The car in itself is camouflage for us, so we will not be scoped out as any sort of target. Plus Eli helped restore the old girl, and is just thrilled with the idea of driving a certified antique through 5 countries. The air conditioner is broken, the fuel gauge works only every once in a while, and the once 53 Miles to the gallon burns out fast now due to the weight of Eli's KLR motorcycle and SMr supplies on the trailer.​

Shaky Shakira 1982 VW Jetta. Of course she'll make it... She's a VW. Right?




Shaky Shakira Loaded Up!

With the broken fuel gauge and zero experience driving Shakira with a trailer, we were not yet sure how fast she was burning through her fuel. Luckily we ran out of diesel on the side of the road in Louisiana rather than the "dangerous" first 200 miles into Mexico. We quickly deterred the situation as Eli rode off on his motorcycle to get diesel.​

Broken down





Hittin' the Highway Again

That evening we met up with Amanda Braun (SMr International Relations Volunteer) in New Orleans finally completing the SMr Volunteer team.
“I was excited to finally meet Eli and start this journey together with him and Lacy. It's a big jump in friendship and trust to go from being complete strangers to embarking on this type of trip together! He has prepared so well for this trip and Shakira is a much nicer ride than I had imagined.” ~Amanda
​

The Three Amigos finally all together

The first long day was coming to a close, so we raced down to Jacque-imo's and got to relax and enjoy the evening over some delicious Cajun Cuisine. We laughed and chatted, jittery with excitement about what was to take place over the course of this incredible journey that was set before us.​

Jaque-imo's





Daily Travel Log: 207 miles, 5 hours travel time

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[sierra madre]

There's Always Tim for Baseeball

Day 2 - October 4th - New Orleans to Victoria, Tx.

The day before, while ditched on the side of the road, we learned that Shaky Shakira would be much more reliable if we lightened the load. First thing in the morning we shipped 400lbs of SMr supplies directly to Nicaragua making the “little VW engine that could” much more efficient.
​

Lightening the load



We are now officially on our way. With the pedal to the metal we spent the first 3 hours getting to know each other the way every great relationship begins; practicing Spanish and discussing which Disney villain each of us would be.

Fresh air break in Texas

We decided to take the country roads around Houston to avoid it’s infamous rush-hour traffic. Shaky was still very slow, huffing and puffing, but traveling much more smoothly now with less weight. We felt as if the troubles were passing behind us, especially because we found ourselves now ahead of schedule. It was too beautiful of a day to stay in the car, so at a random pull off, we played a round of baseball and watched the sunset.​

Catching a Fly Ball




Allstar Amanda




Hard to beat a Texas sunset

We hit the road again endorphins pumping in result of brisk activity and the serene beauty in the sky. Our high spirits only lasted so long... While stopping to fill up for gas we discovered that Eli had left the credit card at the last gas station – a mere 5 hours and one state away. Luckily, Eli’s motorcycle goes a lot faster than Shakira, so he headed back towards Louisiana and Amanda and I headed south. "Using the Pythagorean Theorem we can find a good hotel in both of our paths.” Amanda suggested.

We met up and spent the night in Victoria, Texas, not quite making it to our scheduled destination of Brownsville, Texas where we hoped to cross the border early the next morning.​

Daily Travel Log: 10,070 miles traveled (including Eli's backtrack). 15 hours.




Overall progress so far



*Photos By Eli Baylis*​

 

[sierra madre]

Shakira's Hips Definitely Lie

Day 3 - October 5th -Victoria, TX to Brownsville, TX.

"Hmmm.. What clothes do I want to get diesel all over today?"

That pretty much sums up the mood of our trip Mississippi to Managua in 1982 VW - Shaky Shakira thus far. I originally saw Shaky Shakira as a pleasant old woman, but now view her as a chain smoking B%^ch! We are constantly shadowed by a trail of black diesel smoke, which gets all over the gear in the trailer and is beginning to stain all of my clothes. I fear I will look like an orphaned hood rat when I arrive in Nicaragua. She is full of surprises and on the eve before we enter the "danger zone" ie. North Mexico, I am beginning to feel quite anxious.​

Refilling Shakira after running out of diesel...again

Before the trip even began, Shaky was revamped, rebuilt (top pictures below), yet here is Eli on the side of the road (again) using whatever resources he has to make a quick-fix to the eBrake we believe caused us to run out of fuel, now a second time. We now have a feeling we'll continue to make alterations and quick-fixes for the entire duration of the trip.​

We arrived in Brownsville, a moderately sized border town on the southernmost tip of Texas. It was only about 4pm, but we had to stop because we wanted an early start at the border the next morning as we planned to heed the warnings to stay off the roads in Mexico at night.​

Shaky Shakira calling it a night in Brownsville, Tx

We pulled into a cozy little Best Western with a "harmless" cricket infestation complete with signs advising us to pick them up and place them outside if they were jumping around in our room. The front desk attendant Tule was a curvy Mexican mother of four with kind eyes who was knitting pink booties for her expectant sister. She greeted us with a shy but beautiful smile, saw Shakira and the trailer through the security camera, and asked us about our trip.

"Están locos," she said "Why don't you fly?"

Definitely a valid question! We asked her for tips about crossing the border.

"You don't want to take anything with you that they would want," she recommended.

"They" referring to organized Mexican criminals.

"Take a look at that," Eli proudly pointed to shabby Shakira, "I don't think that will be a problem!"

Tule took another look and clicking her tongue on her teeth pointed to the motorcycle.

"I don't know," she said "They may want that."

Another good point! Eli cringed because Amanda and I had already grilled him about the liability of taking his nice motorcycle on the trip, which he had staunchly and firmly defended. Upon leaving the lobby to our room, Tule spoke privately with Eli in a sharp whisper and said,

"Never leave her alone."

Referring to Amanda and not so subtly implying that the first two hundred miles into Mexico were not safe for a sola American female.​

Amanda with Shaky Shakira attempting to conceal the motorcycle

At 7pm the sun went down and smooth Mariachi rhythms came drifting from the neighborhood across the parking lot. The photojournalistic hairs on the back of Eli's neck rose as Amanda and I continued in our "border crossing hyper-planning" mode. He urged us to come, but Amanda rolled her eyes,

"Don't you think its a good idea to find a map and decide on our route for tomorrow?" she asked.

Digging in his heels Eli left the room, camera in hand, seeking to experience the Mexican-American culture of Brownsville. Amanda and I staked out in the room planning for our safety into Mexico.We printed and analyzed maps, read accounts from travelers who had used the route we planned to travel, and obtained road-side assistance and emergency phone numbers for the states of Tamaulipas and Nuevo Laredo. We didn't find many first hand accounts of the route, but instead the same strong State Department warning blazoned on different sites all over the Internet. "Dangerous Travel Area. Do not travel alone or at night"

Eli came back to the hotel later in the night elated after experiencing a top-notch Mariachi experience North of the border. He was fed delicious food, took some great photos and even led one of their songs.​

Eli captures the melody of the mariachi

Eli has an acute taste for experiencing culture, and cool-natured ease that allows his subjects to feel comfortable around him. It is a fine art of a photographer. He has a phantom way of almost going completely unnoticed so he can swift in and out of a scene and capture the essence of a memorable moment.​

Dancing the cha cha!








There on the border, where the southern tip of Texas melts into Mexico, Eli captured the heart of a community and warmth of celebration. We didn't even have to go to the party, for his pictures took us there instead.


Brownsville local jams on the chords of his guitar





The whole crew bidding Eli farewell




Daily travel log: 231 miles traveled, 5 hours travel time, Victoria, TX to Brownsville, TX on US 77 South.




Overall progress so far: 1,301 Miles





*Photos by Eli Baylis*​

 

[trailsurfer]

Great trip report. You will be overwhelmed by the hospitality you receive in Mexico an underwhelmed by the danger you don't feel or experience once you cross the border. Don't drive in the dark and and stay out of the big cities if possible. You are going to have a great time. I recently did the same trip on my motorcycle to Panama and had a fantastic time.

 

[sierra madre]

Trailsurfer, you are absolutely correct on many occasions people have gone out of their way to help us. We have tried to stick hard and fast to the no driving in the dark, and it is paying off. Beautiful country!

That sounds like a fantastic adventure, a moto would really allow you to be nimble in traffic. What bike did you take?

Great trip report. You will be overwhelmed by the hospitality you receive in Mexico an underwhelmed by the danger you don't feel or experience once you cross the border. Don't drive in the dark and and stay out of the big cities if possible. You are going to have a great time. I recently did the same trip on my motorcycle to Panama and had a fantastic time.

 

[sierra madre]

Borders Are Just Terribly Large Speed Bumps

Day 4- October 6th - Brownsville Border Crossing



Shakira can't function without her morning cup of coffee.

We awoke at the crack of dawn and fed Shakira her morning coffee. Amanda and I had dealt with our fears from the night before, Eli never having doubted or faltered. There are three bridges going out of Brownsville that cross the Rio Grande into Mexico, all having slightly different facilities to handle certain types of travelers. Our situation required us to test all three of these border bridges. The second and biggest crossing we tried named "Veterans Memorial Bridge" was where we learned a few lessons about crossing a border with multiple vehicles and a trailer.

Three gringos, a trailer packed with goods, and a KLR 650 Kawasaki sport bike bumped along all wrapped up like a sloppy burrito in a brown tarp. Shakira's shiny white "antique" license plate was the only marker that we didn't belong in Mexico. We rolled into a solid concrete border crossing with several lanes to choose from depending on the type of migratory status you were going to declare. We pulled up to the customs office to get our vehicle permits and insurance. The recepionista, a gorgeous Latina with a very tight black bun and bright green fingernails snatched our documents from us. She told us that one person could not import more than one vehicle into Mexico, and nonchalantly recommended that we falsify a document that would help us cross the border more easily. Surrounded by Mexican border officials, drug-sniffing German Sheperds, and two plump cleaning ladies who splashed soapy water on crow crap build up, we took shelter within Shakira's black limo-tinted windows.​

Borders are just terribly large speed bumps

We whipped out our Mac laptops and created a new document on Sierra Madre research letterhead authorizing all three of us the ability to drive Shakira across the border, in hopes that we would be granted the necessary permits. The recepionista sent us to her uniformed superior, a spectacled Mexican man with a quickly graying mustache, who firmly denied us our car permit. We decided that we had some problems to sort out and retreated to the comfort of an air-conditioned Starbucks back in Texas.​

Regrouping at Startbucks

Amanda and I sorted out probable remedies to the long list of issues at the border while Eli headed back to the border for a second attempt at getting the permits. This time he thought he could schmooze a bit more and possibly have more of a chance if he appeared solo. Denied.

On his third independent attempt at the border, the third guard of the day was about to wave him through before discovering that the VIN number on Shakira and the one on her title did not match. To our dismay, this could imply a stolen vehicle or forged title, which could have gotten us into some serious trouble at other borders. None of which is the case. Between 1982 and 1983 the state of Mississippi decided to change VIN numbers from 15 to 13 digits, foiling our plans crossing into Mexico 30 years later!​

So close... yet so far away. Turned away at the border of Mexico

Eli returned and filled us in. We would not be able to travel with the trailer and motorcycle into Mexico, we needed a new corrected title, we needed SMr employee badges, we needed to catch a break! We sent an SOS message to our "SMr parents," Juli and Richard, to help us figure things out. We were sent north to San Antonio, to family friend of the Rhett's, Kirk and Ellen, leaving nothing but a long puff of black smoke at the border.​

Daily Travel Log: 277 mile backtrack Brownsville, TX to San Antonio, TX. 15 hours. Long Day. Behind schedule. Need a plan.





Progress (or lack of) so far: 1,578 Miles





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[PetitFrereArmada]

Wow, nice trip. Keep on telling your story. And be safe out there in that VW.

 

[sierra madre]

Remember the Alamo!!!

Day 5-7, October 7th-9th, Seeking Recourse in San Antone!

After speaking with Richard Rhett (Owner at Sierra Madre Research) about all of our setbacks, it was clear we needed to drop the trailer and motorcycle and wait for the new title to arrive. After a 31 year mistake we were a little concerned as to how long the correction would take. The Rhetts decided it'd be best to head back to San Antonio where the they had friends and we could stay safe, and for free. Kirk and Ellen own an international structural engineering firm and live in a big house in San Antonio's suburbs complete with its own police force. As Shakira screamed up their long, perfectly-paved driveway, with her diesel exhaust stained trailer and goods in tow, we imagined an open-mouthed neighbor dropping her newspapers and retreating into her air conditioned home. As we click a button close to the front door, a peaceful chime sounded within the house. Two LED lights turned on above and we saw a camera lens above the doorbell. Smiling, I immediately looked down at my diesel stained Chino's and scratched my new itchy beard, I definitely felt like a gypsy who had abandoned the road for a hot meal.​

After having no choice but to loose the trailer, we have to repack everything!




Definitely prioritizing adventure gear! Somehow we managed to fit everything but the motorcycle into the car! (though Eli Tried!)

Kirk and Ellen were the most generous hosts we could have hoped for. They had an entire second floor that they let us take over and we each had our own comfortable bed. They helped us deal with some atomic meltdown of team relationships and gave calm and rational advice. All hail Kirk and Ellen!!​

Hangin' with Mrs. Ellen watching for the FedEx man

We found San Antonio to be a lovely city with great roads and restaurants. The verdant Riverwalk downtown was like being in a Texan version of Venice, complete with boats floating by with serenading Mariachi bands. We stopped by to say hello to the Alamo and saw some of the historic missions from the era when Texas was still a part of Mexico.​

Hangin' out in her Pares Hammock in front of the Alamo. Not a bad detour in the trip!




Scoping out the walls

Being marooned in San Antonio while waiting for the state of Mississippi to send us a new title was an endeavor in and of itself. We had already spent a week together and felt like we were back at square one, bringing many personality conflicts bubbling to the surface. For the first time in my life, I saw what some people mean when they say that you truly get to see someone's true character when you are traveling with them.​

Exploring San Antonio















Hopefully we'll receive the corrected title and be moving again by tomorrow.


​

 

[sierra madre]

Go and Brush your Shoulders Off

Day 8, October 10th, San Antonio, TX to Monterrey, Mexico

We were drearily waiting for a FedEx delivery from the Mississippi State Title Office. They promised an accurate title for Shakira which would enable us to get the car in and out of Mexico. However, after all the mix-ups thus far my confidence was shaken. After all the bumps, hiccups, miscommunications with Fed Ex, miscommunications with the Mississippi Title Office, and miscommunications among the three of us, we were all expecting the worst.
​

Eli and Amanda... STILL hangin' out in San Antonio

It was a beautiful morning in San Antonio, the temperature was right at the sweet spot, and the stately oak trees in Kirk and Ellen's front yard were swaying in a fragrant Texas breeze. As the FedEx truck pulled up, we were stacking our gear in Shakira's spacious trunk using our Tetris skills garnered from growing up in the 1990s. Eli skipped to meet the delivery man. ALAS! It was an envelope from Mississippi State! Eli took the envelope with a grin and tipped his fedora to the delivery man. He opened the envelope slowly, keeping Amanda and I on the edge of our seats. It was correct, the Mississippi Title Office had pulled through! We wasted no time jumping in the car and leaving the gorgeous city of San Antonio behind. We had rerouted and decided to drive from Texas to Monterrey in the Mexican state of Nuevo León.

This time we were OVER equipped to make it across the border without looking like regular American ex-cons trying to flee their home country. We had a new corrected title (proving Shaky Shakira wasn't stolen), one vehicle (instead of 3), employee IDs to account for the supplies we were carrying (in English AND Spanish) and were more determined and confident than ever.​

Employee IDs Sierra Madre Resarchwhipped up for us from headquarters in Nicaragua

We breezed right through the border crossing, ignoring the cat-calls and hand gestures of people who were trying to confuse us and telling us that we needed to stop. We could see that following the advice of the wrong person would cost a pretty penny and could be dangerous. Keeping our original goal in mind, we put the pedal to the metal leaving the border far behind and covered in our dust (literally).​

We got the Golden Ticket! Car permit for Shaky Shakira in Mexico. FINALLY!






Eli experiencing his first Mexican Coke-in-a-bag

The drive from the border to Monterrey was hot, dry, and filthy. There were few personal vehicles on the road, but plenty of semi-trucks to keep Shakira's diesel exhaust company.
As one of the most industrial cities in Mexico and the biggest industrial trade hub to the USA, we could see and smell the thick cloud of burning petro-chemicals miles before we entered the city. As I felt my lungs fill with thick, staunchy air, I remembered reading somewhere that just breathing in some of the cities in Mexico is said to be the equivalent of smoking two packs of cigarettes a day. Very possibly the same from sitting inside Shakira for too long!​

Cars leave streams of light as they rumble around Monterrey at night

However, had I not known what the source of the clouds were, I would have said that they gave the tall mountain peaks surrounding the dry city of Monterrey an extra heir of majesty. We were traveling in the foothills of the Sierra Madre mountain range. Stretching from southern Arizona to Honduras, the Sierra Madre mountain range passes through Mexico, Guatemala, and El Salvador. These mountains cover a massive range of our world’s culture and affect so many lives with their adventure and beauty. Like a spine running through a body of land, the Sierra Madre range connects North America to Central America. These mountains symbolize Sierra Madre Research’s mantra: advocating adventure, connecting people to people, and bringing hope to the hopeless. Looking to the mountains continues to remind us why we are here on this journey in the first place.​

Sierra Madre mountain range in the distance

Driving into the city, the cars on the packed streets thickened the haze around us. The bold yellow lines we've been so accustomed to in the states were replaced by horns and worn out drivers who were pushing and merging their way around the loose traffic laws of Monterrey. At the worst possible moment Shakira had to let her opinion of the situation be known. Amanda and I sitting straight up in our seats noticed Eli struggling as we lost 2nd and 4th gear. Not only fighting the hectic stop and go pace of the roads, and Shakira's slipping gears, but also Amanda's squeaks and screams at every unexpected jerk and pothole, Eli got us to there safely. As the colors from the North Mexican sunset swirled in the life-choking clouds that engulf the city of Monterrey, we pulled into the hostel.

After we checked in, naturally, there was only one place we were absolutely certain we needed to go. We wiped the soot off our faces, dusted the dirt off our shoulders, and headed out to let off some steam at Sierra Madre Brewing Company, where the beer was delicious, and the locals dressed to the "nines". It was nice to relax, and kick back for a bit with the feeling that the REAL journey had finally begun.​

Sierra Madre Brewing Company in Monterrey









Daily travel log: 300 miles traveled, 6 hours, San Antonio, TX to Monerray, Mexico on 35S to 85D in Mx.




Overall Progress: 1,878 Miles traveled264



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