Water filtration

[Ramdough]

Well, I am not ready to build my filtration for my camper build, but since I have had 3 boil notices in 2 years, I think I will start building my system now.

My current plan is at least a UV light and 5 micron carbon block and a pleated 5 micron pre-filter. I am looking at using 4”x10” big blue filters. I would mount it all on a plywood board, but then rebuild it in my camper when I am ready.

What does everyone suggest?


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[dreadlocks]

RC3-UV Home drinking 4 stage water filtration System with 8W UV

Free shipping within USA, 48 states only

www.purewaterclub.com

I've been eyeballing that for the kitchen, mine is supplied by water jugs.. I can get one thats okay to contaminate w/questionable water and have a valve that switches between filter or not depending on if I'm using it.. draining it all out for winter use seems to be a hassle tho.

*edit* on second thought the filters would age out before they wore out so might as well pump everything through em.

 

[4x4tripping]

Thanks for the Link @ dreadlocks, looks nice also if it is not build for 12v. Here I did a buy list for doing it by yourself:

Wohnmobil Wasser-Filter im Eigenbau

Auch den Wasserfilter kann man selber zusammenstellen und bauen - eine Anleitung

www.4x4tripping.com

Looks with purewater we did get it also a bit cheaper!

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

We always add sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine) to our water tanks every time we add water, irrespective of its source.
Then we go through a 5um sediment filter followed by a 0.5um carbon/silver filter situated after the pump and before the taps.
Chlorine breaks down quite quickly (a few days, depending on temperature) and any remaining chlorine is removed by the carbon filter.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[Ramdough]

RC3-UV Home drinking 4 stage water filtration System with 8W UV

Free shipping within USA, 48 states only

www.purewaterclub.com

I've been eyeballing that for the kitchen, mine is supplied by water jugs.. I can get one thats okay to contaminate w/questionable water and have a valve that switches between filter or not depending on if I'm using it.. draining it all out for winter use seems to be a hassle tho.

That looks like a really cost effective unit. I was planning on building something for my camper and just using it in the house as needed. I may reconsider at that price.


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[Ramdough]

We always add sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine) to our water tanks every time we add water, irrespective of its source.
Then we go through a 5um sediment filter followed by a 0.5um carbon/silver filter situated after the pump and before the taps.
Chlorine breaks down quite quickly (a few days, depending on temperature) and any remaining chlorine is removed by the carbon filter.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

What filters (mode numbers and manufacturer) are you using? Where do you get them?


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[dreadlocks]

Thanks for the Link @ dreadlocks, looks nice also if it is not build for 12v. Here I did a buy list for doing it by yourself:

Wohnmobil Wasser-Filter im Eigenbau

Auch den Wasserfilter kann man selber zusammenstellen und bauen - eine Anleitung

www.4x4tripping.com

Looks with purewater we did get it also a bit cheaper!

That big giant power brick on the plug means the light is likely DC, just needa read that label and find out what input it takes and then buck/boost it up to whatever it needs after cutting that off.

 

[DaveInDenver]

That big giant power brick on the plug means the light is likely DC, just needa read that label and find out what input it takes and then buck/boost it up to whatever it needs after cutting that off.

That may be a fluorescent lamp ballast, e.g. stepping voltage up. There exist 12VDC ballasts so it may be possible to find one that matches what the bulb needs.

 

[dreadlocks]

ah yeah I forgot those are fluorescent, this would make it 12v: https://www.amazon.com/Realgoal-sterilizer-alarming-Germicidal-Electronic/dp/B07H65HRW5

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

What filters (mode numbers and manufacturer) are you using? Where do you get them?

I buy the carbon/silver filters on line by specification, not by brand. 10"x 2" under AUD$20 each.
Sediment filters from $2 each cash form a local water treatment company.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[Joe917]

UV lights take a fair bit of power, don't do well being switched on and off, and I am guessing here, probably don't like vibration.
We have got by with treating water with bleach, then 5 micron and 0.5 micron carbon block filter.

 

[dreadlocks]

at low flow rates most of us have you dont need a very high power one I'd think.. would be less energy than running a pump for long enough to generate RO.

 

[llamalander]

UV is measured in micro-watts per cm squared at 1 meter and the intensity increases exponentially as you move nearer.
Running a fairly small amount of water slowly around the outside of a 6-watt bulb is more than enough UV-C energy to kill most living things besides spores and bad ideas.
The water needs to be as clear as possible, which is why it is last in the line of filters.
While the bulbs are not terribly efficient converting electricity into UV-C, it takes a very small amount of energy to disable very small bacteria or waterborne pathogens, especially if they are only centimeters from the source of energy.

 

[4x4tripping]

The UV Lamps need some time to warmup. Professional RV Waterfiltration Systems start with 1 min delay - because of this reason.

 

[Alloy]

We filter the water going (seen allot of used tanks with muck on the bottom) into the tanks.
After every use the filters are removed and left to dry out.

If the source has not been purified then we use Progene (purified sodium chlorite) that we carry It does not form Trihalomethanes like chlorine does.



I write the puchase date on the jugs of bleach I buy because the concentration drops by 50% after 7-8 months.