WH (WK) Preparation for the Pyrenees

crossed-up

Observer
Hello All and happy New Year!

I’ve been lurking here for months having stumbled across jeepgc’s wonderful Iceland thread whilst searching for expo parts for my own ’05 WH(WK) Hemi. There can’t be many of us UK Hemi owners about!

This was all in preparation for a trip to the Pyrenees I have planned with my brother and his family sometime in the summer. He’ll be taking his new Renegade Trailhawk and I’ll be in the WK. Neither of these has the most copious luggage space and we will need space to be three-up in each vehicle with all our associated camping gear, inflatable kayaks, fridge, food, tools, some basic recovery gear, and in my case at least a jerry can of spare fuel.

These are the beasties:
I0000N08z5Dgm_FM.jpg


So I’ve been getting inspiration from the the many builds in the Storage Solutions section and I always liked the idea of a drawer based system, but never beed too convinced by all the weight or whether they would just take up space rather ‘creating’ it through more efficient packaging.

I had dabbled with various ideas back in October when I needed to use the Jeep as a rally service/chase car (Mull Rally). This generally involves charging about the island laden with crew, various tool kits, spares, wheels and tyres, and fuel. In previous years (with the ZJ and Commander) I’ve managed to just pack everything in to Action Packers, tool boxes and plastic crates, and pack it all in nice and tightly so it can’t move. But this time I needed to take a much bigger and very heavy trolley jack, and didn’t fancy it flying around, especially in the event of an accident! I also like to keep my interiors clean and undamaged.

So a few days before the event, I came up with a quick plan to make a simple 9mm plywood plate to mount the trolley jack on the left hand side of the luggage space. The plate was secured to the cubby side walls with some simple brackets using ‘Plastite’ screws, and the jack was secured to the plate with a small ratchet strap. All this partially covered the cubby space, making it impossible to use the original floor panel so I also cut a couple of 9mm ply floor panels to cover the cubby space. These actually made the cubby much more useable and managed to stow all my recovery gear and a spade under there. It was a quick build a couple of days before I needed to travel, so didn’t take any pictures!

Sadly the Mull event ended prematurely due to fatal accident, so I didn't take many pictures. But here's the WK on service duties. The square panel leaning against the bumper is the replacement ply cubby hole cover.

I00005MNE8DZfwQs.jpg


I00004DV2Iz_dyQo.jpg


Roll on to last week and with a few days off over the holiday period we had planned a laning trip to Wales as a bit of a shakedown for the Pyrenees to check out some of the gear, tyres, CB’s etc, and a general excuse to get the Renegade muddy. Having postponed this a couple of days to New Years Day, due to all the flooding and storms, I decided there was time to build a basic single draw to serve mainly as a chuck box/kitchen, and also check out an idea for a shelf/guard arrangement using Tracmats.

So here’s the build….

Firstly I needed to decide on some dimensions. Since the drawer's primary function was a camp kitchen/chuck box I based it on the width of my Coleman twin burner stove and the height of tallest cooking pots and kettle. Luckily, these dimensions also allowed a folded Coleman oven to fit. In terms of depth I decided not to go back as far as the rear seats as this would prevent access to the two cubby spaces for the factory jack etc. So the drawer only goes back to the hinges of the cubby hatches which conveniently left space for two rectangular tote bags that can still be accessed from passenger compartment by folding the seat back down.

Tote bags fill space between seats and drawer box.
I00004bIHrT.TC.8.jpg


The Tracmats also fitted nicely across the width of the luggage space, but would need a frame to mount them as they were too short to drop on to the parcel shelf runners. I don't carry the jack around on a daily basis, but wanted the option to do so, so I decided to leave space for the mount when required and the option of using it with the drawer. As it turned out the jack proved to be a vital bit of equipment on the Wales trip! (I'll post up some details of that trip later)
The 20 litre jerry can also fits nicely on the right hand side.
I00003hBOxFKxBfE.jpg


Secondly there was the construction method and materials. Given the two day timeframe I needed to get it all the materials from the local DIY store (B&Q/HomeDepot) so I went for 12mm ply. I had considered 9mm for the draw and 12mm for the case, but the store only had a single warped sheet of 9mm in stock, so 12mm it was! Although I did go for 5.5mm for the drawer base to save weight. I'm no cabinetmaker (more used to metal fabrication and car bodywork) but decided that I could use the router to produce simple rabbet and grooved joints to add strength to the relatively lightweight construction. I actually only ended up using a hand saw, small plane (to straighten the cuts), the router, small chisel (to square of the ends of routed slots) and power drill.

I0000iDj6.QJd6u4.jpg


I0000QM5Pg0sFc1g.jpg


That really is only a 12mm wide rabbet!
I0000EbalWfzqPu8.jpg


Determining runner location - these were 550mm runners from Screwfix.
I00008qZEhNI_scA.jpg


I decided to recess the runners to avoid loosing too much drawer width.
I0000TwTeEvbXlE0.jpg


Determining the overall draw length. I made the drawer slightly over size so I could cut it back to for the best fit later. At this stage I hadn't decided on whether I wanted/needed a drawer front, but left enough space for a 12mm ply front.
I0000psN1bkam3Rw.jpg


Checking the position of the stove and deciding on the side profile of the drawer, allowing for access to the second burner control and vents.
I0000PLKJLQC8cx8.jpg


Setting position of divider between stove and storage area. For maximum drawer space I sat the stove as far forward as possibly, but allowing for a 12mm drawer front to be fitted if required.
I0000S.KAtiRUJl8.jpg


Routing slot for the divider.
I0000fntI.zz5DUw.jpg


Various pieces heading towards their final shapes and sizes.
I0000ZDby.DFHZt4.jpg


Dry fit of parts to check fit.
I0000m8HbQfQgBO4.jpg


Adding 'lightness' to the drawer case sides.
I0000LFYFPXlJS2Y.jpg


No, I didn't buy a kit from Ikea!
I0000jdaOB_L_KwM.jpg


Final gluing and screwing together of the draw assembly.
I0000qwiteiN7dc8.jpg


As is often the case with these 'make it up as you go' projects I had to rethink a few things. When determining the runner positions I hadn't allowed for the vent holes in the draw sides, so had to route a wider grove for the runners to move them up 12mm. I also had to route pockets into the rear panel as the runners needed to go back 20mm to clear the burner control hole on the LH side panel.
I0000DmAp3s1Rbdg.jpg


Drawer case screwed and glued.
I0000NRve__qDOaQ.jpg


Repositioning the runners in their wider slots to clear the vents.
I000062YttMu7pBs.jpg


Whilst the glue and varnish was drying I turned my attention to the Tracmats. I had some lengths of 30mm ali angle so decided to use that to make a frame to create a shelf for the mats. I intentionally positioned the mat off centre to the right so that at least one end was supported on the parcel shelf runner, and this also created a nice little space for a tote tray on the left hand side.
I0000qKTf0ZA_UxI.jpg


Trial fit in the car. Conveniently the drawer case could be mounted to the side of the jack mount panel with small ali brackets. Access to the cubby hole requires the drawer to be removed, but I only kit seldom used kit in there. I will probably but out the centre of the jack mount plate for better access. The section of cubby to the right of the drawer is covered with a removable 12mm ply panel.
I0000wrOg_aKkwBI.jpg


By this time it was was getting late on the eve of the Wales trip, so had to finish of the installation ready to leave at 6.30am after the New Year's festivities. So I had to forget about taking pictures and just get everything securely fixed as bets I could. This involved ratchet straps to hold the Tracmats and a simple ali strut to hold them at right angles.

Ooops, reached the thread picture limit.... continued in next post....
 

crossed-up

Observer
continued....

Ali strut to hold vertical Tracmat to act as a cargo guard.
I0000Ih0knY5vuHw.jpg


Jack and tool bag fit nicely next to the drawer and also provides a nice fixing point.
I0000nqgUEtRFdvM.jpg


The draw finishes short of the cubby boxes, which can still be accesses by foreign the seat backs and moving the tote bags. I might also cut the rear section of the drawer case away to give access to the floor cubby.
I0000HNzVTlpB_MI.jpg


All loaded and ready to go (actually shot this today)
I0000nLmsmiYdSK4.jpg



In action in Wales.
I00004Ai79WSdfoU.jpg


All in all I'm really pleased with how its all worked out, especially as it mostly evolved whilst building it. The brief trip to Wales has also convinced me that it is a workable solution for the Pyrenees trip in terms of packaging and convenience, and does help 'create' space rather than consume it. I just needs some refinement now and I'm now thinking of adding small fold out work table attached to the side of the draw, and possibly some thin internal dividers for the drawer.

Watch this space.... :)

Simon.
 

BCobe

Adventurer
The Pyrenees sounds like an awesome place to go out and explore. Be sure to post up a trip report!
 

jeepgc

Adventurer
Good work Simon and thanks for mentioning my thread.

Your storage system looks good.

Looking forward to reading about your future trips.

Great to see another WH/WK on here esp. From the UK :)
 

crossed-up

Observer
Thanks guys, I'll be sure to do a write up on the Pyrenees trip, and the rest of the preparations. We're not expecting any hardcore offloading as such, so mods have been limited (so far!) to underbody protection, storage/comfort and general prevantative maintenance. Tom's Renegade already has most of this already since it's brand new and is the Trailhawk version with underbody protection, recovery points and slightly raised ride height.

I've only had this Jeep for about 8 months. It was a replacement for my Commander Hemi that got written off in a deep ford about this time last year. This GC was the only Hemi (had to be Hemi!) I could find and got it at a good price as it had a EGR code, TPMS and airbag light showing. It also had a full Startech kit fitted (20" wheels, air dam and sills) as it had been a dealer demo vehicle before the previous owner bought it 'new'. I've now ditched all of that and gone back to stock size rims and tyres.

Thankfully I got the main issues fixed the day I got it home:

I knew an EGR valve was about $80 from the States, but figured I'd have a quick look at the existing one first. After I removed it I could see and feel that the actual mechanical part of the valve was clean and free moving, so then checked the resistance across the terminals and found a dead short! So I carefully prised open the connector assembly and found a protection diode across the terminals. This had failed short circuit. I also checked the coil by applying 12V to it and the valve opened. So it was obviously just the diode that was the problem.

The removed EGR valve.
I0000Sg_PmorgeXQ.jpg


All was clean and free mechanically.
I0000ix6m0NRIVZc.jpg


Failed protection diode across the terminals. This is what was throwing the MIL code.
I00000RHGuBku1fY.jpg


Luckily I had a suitable replacement albeit an SMD rather than leaded version (electronics is my job).
I00009ARcsG0JFZU.jpg


Replacement soldered in place.
I0000D3NOKwAKfuQ.jpg


After reassembling and refitting and clearing code it all worked perfectly.


The airbag issues was the common problem (on many old vehicles) of a poor connection under the passenger seat. I disconnecetd the battery to avoid any waited 10 mins to avoid any impromptu deployment issues, then remade the connector after applying a squirt of contact cleaner. Then reconnected the battery. After firing up the engine the warning light went off and had remained so.

The TPMS issue, as I suspected due to the different valve stem that was visible, was due to a puncture repair to a rear wheel where the TPMS sensor hadn't been replaced. I cured this a few months back by fitting an aftermarket Schrader sensor for about £45. I also used a set of these on the new 17" wheels to keep the TPMS happy. I do still have problem with it reporting a low pressure on the spare, but I think that is due to the code for that being hardcoded into the ECU. The warning light is off though which is all that matters for the MOT.

On the drive home I also noticed some knocking sounds from the front end which I later found was the lower balljoints, and were an advisory on the last MOT. I bought a whole set of new joints and bushes but decided just to replace the whole bottom arms as it was quicker job and I was doing it all with my leg in a a vacuum cast after rupturing my Achilles tendon a few weeks before!

New bottom arms come complete with all new joints and bushes.
I0000BCp89fDFUGU.jpg



In terms of the underbody protection, I did contact the company that did jeepgc's prep to see if they could produce another guard, and they were very helpful but they 'built it to suit' so didn't have any plans to build another without having the Jeep. So I need up importing a full set of guards from Asfir 4x4 in Israel.

Sump guard fitted.
I0000C8rtWL37bds.jpg


Transfer case guard.
I0000Gxqlw9x_IUM.jpg


Transmission and CAT guard.
I0000W7DCx8pBMvU.jpg


Replacement lower arms more cost effective than changing all three bushes and gives peace of mind.
I0000BCp89fDFUGU.jpg


Other jobs have included a full set of brake disc/pads/shoes, front shocks as one was weeping, a Magnaflow CAT back exhaust to replace the rusty stock one, diff oil changes, and normal engine oil and filter changes. I also resprayed the front bumper to tidy up the marks left from removing the Startech air dam which was just bonded on

Blending in some new paint on the bumper ends after removing the Startech panel.
I00005.pdATCT83I.jpg


I also fitted a Bossal removable tow bar ahead of the Mull trip for trailer towing duties, and a CB ahead of the Wales trip last week.
I am now at the stage where I think I've been through most of the major components and driven it long and hard enough (especially in Mull where it was actually faster than the rally car!) to consider it 'mine' rather than worrying about what the previous owner may or may not have done. Next on the agenda is a transmission fluid change, spark plugs, and possibly rear shocks as we were constantly hitting the bump stops in Mull.

Oops, nearly forgot, following the trip to Wales I now need to repair and repaint the bumper again after ripping it on a tree stump whilst trying to turn around on a tree-blocked trail which was only just a bit wider than the length of the Jeep :oops:

Gaffer tape repair after encounter with a buried tree stump!
I0000B53kUJl64.4.jpg
 
Last edited:

crossed-up

Observer
Where did you get those fabric tote bags

They were actually very cheap 'car boot organisers' from Aldi. I spotted them by chance and thought they'd match up well with the grey interior. I wasn't expecting much for the money but they turned out to be pretty decent quality with Velcro on the base and sides and some extra mounting studs to secure them. I wish I'd bought a couple more now.
 

crossed-up

Observer
Some pics from the trip to Wales. It wasn't the most epic of trips, and much shorter than planned, but still a great day out.

Start of the first trail.
I0000oDJTHXtSyfo.jpg


A mile or so in we were confronted with a fallen tree. The local mountain bikers said it must have come down over night in the storms as it wasn't there the previous day.
I0000MY5NjfGARAc.jpg


We'd not anticipated any lumber jacking activities (despite Tom's attire!), so only had two small hatchets and an ancient bow saw I decided to bring just in case. We could have turned back but had plenty of time and decided we'd 'have a go at it'. The trunk was still attached to its roots and pretty well immovable, so we chose to cut a 6 ft section off the end which would allow us to get the Jeeps through. It was about 18" thick at the chosen point and we didn't fancy attacking anything thicker further up the trunk, which would also have left a much bigger bit for us to shift.

So it was kettle on of a brew whilst we worked.
I00009h.rg15jacI.jpg


It was tough going...
I0000nkT7Gdjw84A.jpg


I0000aW_jdiY6ZZs.jpg


I0000YUwaxxw_B1o.jpg


Luckily I had decided to bring the big trolley jack so we used that to raise the trunk to open the cut as we went.

I0000wDFhP5EYY78.jpg


Plenty of the smaller branches had to be cut too as they were supporting the end section.
I0000ammz_1d9CX4.jpg


Finally after an hour of chopping and cutting we were through! But then had to lever the trunk section over to the ditch with a spade and the jack handle. We had plenty of thanks from the local thanks from the local bikers who were having to get of and clamber of there trunk.
I0000ut3RUVamEn4.jpg


A Jeep sized gap.
I0000vhRT.rbl5vE.jpg


I0000YZvvK.vvAYk.jpg


After packing up we pressed on for another couple of miles where the road actually started to get a bit more 'off road' and interesting.
I00002fmp7pxMno4.jpg


I0000DXJ0NRGV.Ms.jpg


But we were met by this! Four trees double the thickness of the last. There was no way we were shifting that lot, so there was nothing for it but to turn around. That proved to be challenging on such a narrow trail and was the point at which I got my bumper snagged on a buried stump whilst climbing up the bank! I'd completely I'd left the lower spoiler attached :oops: Oh, well, its not a proper trip unless you have had the gaffer tape out!

I0000qI3qMWk_cCc.jpg


By this time it had started raining heavily, but we decided to have a spot of lunch.
I0000G8E07Gd.xFc.jpg


I0000jzrWk8sP3gM.jpg


So in summary; 150 miles there, cut a tree up, ripped my bumper off, had lunch in the rain, then 150 miles back! :D

Since the trip I had started to notice the return of the dreaded WK front end knock over pot holes. It got slowly worse over the last few weeks. I had a quick gander underneath last week and discovered that two of the front diff mounts had disintegrated. I had a suspicion that this might have been the problem as I was also getting an increasingly noticeable 'thunk' when selecting R or D from neutral. So you can guess what I was doing this weekend!
 

Charles R

Adventurer
Great adventure guys...maybe a bow saw for future trips or a chainsaw

I decided awhile back against a chainsaw. For me, it was too much space, weight, and complexity to be relied on in an emergency. And also, because I'm an old school guy who grew up chopping wood for heating a home. But like everything else, not all cutting/chopping tools are created equal.

my buddy has this saw in his kit...

I myself keep a Fiskars hatchet,
http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/X17-Splitting-Axe-23.5

and now this splitting axe
http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/Super-Splitting-Axe-36

I haven't gotten a chance to swing the long axe in ernest, but I've been extremely impressed with the smaller hatchet. Even though they're "splitting" head profiles, I don't think it impacts their usefulness drastically. I also really like that the handles on these are very light, so the weight you carry on board is minimized without affecting the "working" weight. I'll be adding a Katanaboy to my kit as well.

Great prep on your WH! I like the dual use of your tracmat, and I'm really impressed with the quality work on the drawer. Great work!
 

crossed-up

Observer
Yes, it was indeed a nice little adventure. Here's a little video Tom managed to put together from the limited footage we had - not exactly the Camel Trophy was it? :********:


That saw is an impressive bit of kit Charles! Actually the small bow saw we had does have a pretty good cut rate, the main problem was that the cut was closing up and trapping the blade as we were cutting in the middle of the trunk. Cutting an unsupported section off the end would have been much easier I think. We had to resort to jacking and jamming the hatchet in as a wedge to keep the gap open. I think I might consider a new bow saw, or at the very least a new blade! I think a chainsaw may just be a step too far for the sort of trips we have planned, despite never needing much of an excuse to buy more tools :)

Going back to some other jobs done in the last few months...

I originally made this extinguisher mount for the Commander, but seeing as the floor pans are the same it transferred easily to the GC.

I0000.2eCGAEatbg.jpg


I0000lHCsKMpTSmY.jpg


I fitted a full set of brakes before my Mull trip.

I00004OHDoAj9gek.jpg


This was the state of the rear brakes - the hand brake shoes were down to the metal :Wow1:

I0000UHWxyGHVR54.jpg


Back to last weekend's clonking from end remedies...

I had a set of new diff mount bushes and also a new hub assembly which I bought some time ago as I had convinced myself (especially after thrashing round Mull) that the RH bearing was grumbling, so decided to replace the lot all in one go whilst I was in there.

Breaking out the front diff mount - you can buy these pre-installed in a new the bracket, but I cheaped out and just bought the bush.

I00008XQuNlrhFC0.jpg


Pressing the new bush in.

I0000_plVQO_yGJM.jpg


All done and ready to install.

I0000N72LsK.uXR8.jpg


This is where the fun began as you really need to drop the whole front diff to get good access, although some have done this by just popping the steering knuckles to allow the driveshafts to be pulled clear, then rotating the assembly diff 180 degrees to get access to the top mount. You best doing this on a list though. Given that I was doing this solo on the drive (garage full of other projects!) I planned to drop the whole assembly out and move it into the garage and the ‘comfort' of the workbench. The reality was that I couldn't budge the LH side driveshaft from the diff, so ended up doing the job in situ with the diff twisted upside down and at an angle - not ideal to say the least!

Top mount removed. The rubber bush was completely shot and just fell out. I then used an air saw to cut the metal rung so it could be collapsed and knocked out with a drift.

I0000IEKNReEX9DI.jpg


Pressing the new bush in. I had to do this in a couple of stages using different spacers and packers.
I0000unLVl7iE4CY.jpg


New bush finally in place, just one more to go!

I00005UNcFxP9sD4.jpg


Last one, bore cleaned up ready to press in.

I0000TWwvFkqzBGI.jpg


On the second day of bush and bearing fettling I had to contend with snow!

I0000eGcemCGkakw.jpg


The hub change is actually very straightforward (remove brake assembly and speed sensor cable, then just three bolts) but it took some shifting from the carrier as it had corroded in place.

I0000x7a4fka7x38.jpg


Hub carrier all cleaned up ready to accept the new hub.

I00003EWhMJXteb8.jpg


I0000yzFgeA6tJ9E.jpg


I also cleaned up and painted the brake shield.

I00005B0bo3Y0J.0.jpg


Final stages, just hub nut, and brakes to fit.

I0000JJZzkhe15Ug.jpg


Thankfully the Jeep drove and rode like new on the way to work this morning after replacing this lot..I even when hunting for pot holes as I couldn't believe it!

I0000KGbkEmSkFVE.jpg


Next week's installment will hopefully be back to drawer modifications and additions....
 
Last edited:

crossed-up

Observer
After a trouble-free and pleasantly smooth and quiet week of running since all the front end work, I turned my attention back to my drawer/kitchen. I had always intended on having some sort of fold out table attached to the drawer, and I thought it would just be a simple hinged bit of ply. In the end things proved slightly more complicated due to the position of the runner on the side. I had to tweak things a bit along the way but ended up with something useable.

Planning out the table. Size was constrained mostly by the width of the drawer.
I0000GUuoUYYXxCc.jpg


Glueing up the basic tray - 5mm ply with 12mm ply surround for stiffness.
I0000EOxMJuz_RwY.jpg



Chopping out the hinge rebate.
I0000j50HYnyNxN4.jpg


I0000u44rbmBGazY.jpg


Bending up a support.
I0000Quzc4F7YO0M.jpg


Support holds the table flat to give a useful table when not using the stove.
I0000TQCJdx2yaRY.jpg


I decided on top-mounted an aluminium support that locks into a bracket.
I0000LSojGinLJ8Q.jpg


I forgot to allow clearance for the stove when making the central hinge support so had to cut this down in situ and tidy it up as best i could :oops:
I0000mJ2FifPEdwo.jpg


I0000gtIzZCmlCsI.jpg


Then end result seems rigid enough but I may make up an aluminium brace across the from face of the stove to tie the front end of the drawer sides together. I also need to remake the support bracket with an extra tab to hold the support when it is folded in transit.
I0000ua_FFradhOc.jpg
 

crossed-up

Observer
Things are starting to come together now with actually organising the trip. It's looking like sometime early August is date, so now looking at getting ferries and overnight stops booked for the run down through France to Spain.

Here's a shot of the way-pointed off road route we'll be following from Perpignan to Biarritz.

I0000gCPHhcuRiBQ.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,026
Messages
2,901,327
Members
229,411
Latest member
IvaBru
Top