What would you do

[JohnnyBootlegger]

I've been wanting a van for awhile. I've been through jeeps, trucks, suburbans, land rovers, everything but a van. So now I'm trying to scratch that itch. I found this van that I can get for less than a thousand bucks, v10 130,000 miles. The guy who has it "ran over a pole in a parking lot" and screwed up the suspension/knuckle on the passenger side and won't turn now. No biggie I'm guessing, I'll remove all of that anyway.

I'm just fighting my urge to buy for some reason, wondering if I should buy something a little nicer. This thing has been sitting over a year and is DIRTY inside. Moldy. But I'm thinking nothing a little elbow grease won't solve. Just trying to figure out if its worth it to find something a little nicer, but it will be 5x the price. UJOR is only a couple hrs drive so I should be able to clean up the van and throw an axle under the front and just drive for a while and pick up the extra pieces I'll need.

Or just fix the van as is and flip it.

Decisions. Btw, I do believe this is the greatest forum on earth! Love to see all the hard work and great results you all get!!

 

[tgreening]

Assuming it starts, runs, isn't a rust bucket, everything works, etc, I'd be very careful about just jumping on it. You'll want to be dang sure he didn't screw up the frame. I'm not exactly how you "run over" a pole without first knocking said pole down, but I wasn't there so who knows.

Replacing a few hard parts up front to make it drivable is one thing, but needing to have the frame straightened is something else.

I wouldn't think the mold is too much of an issue because if you're like most this thing will get gutted for a thorough cleaning/refresh anyway.

That front end issue is the key thing I believe.

 

[boardrider247]

Under a grand? With a V10 I'd go for it. Assuming it will start.
Worst case the frame is beyond repair and you sell the engine/trans to recoup your cost.

 

[Corneilius]

Extended body passenger V10 is a great base platform. I would check the tranny pan and lines for damage, fuel lines on driver frame rail. Body/frame for rust.

The interior can be cleaned but if its crank windows and manual locks that'd be a deal breaker for me.

I would look at the overall condition of the van before I decided, a lot of guys pop on a van thats a good deal and later live with compromises (crank windows, no rear AC, rusted rain gutters)

 

[naterry]

Time and motivation. If you have extra it may be a good find, if you don't...

 

[JohnnyBootlegger]

The guy that owns the van told me it ran and drove fine, just wouldn't turn left after the accident lol. I'm gonna go check it out further today or tomorrow. Should I measure the distance between the frame rails? I know sometimes frame damage might not be visible to the naked eye, which is what scares me.

Anything else to look for?

 

[philos]

I'd pass and troll some actual physical auctions.
Living in SoCal, we've got several OPG auctions daily so there are LOTS of cars/trucks/vans being sold in better shape for less. Not sure if your in a city like this or not, but it's an avenue.
I watched a 5.4 chateau a few weeks back that drove F/R and didn't smoke at startup sell to a junkyard for $375. The no-start mid 90s Subaru Legacy in the next row sold for $325...
Auctions are going to be my new jam.


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[JohnnyBootlegger]

My only problem with auctions is they're usually there for a reason. I've seen plenty of people get burned with bad headgaskets or trans problems from auction vehicles. This van is owned by an older gentleman who hauled his kids and grandkids around, seems to be a straight shooter. The van is dirty, but the oil, trans fluid, and antifreeze are pretty clean.

 

[boardrider247]

It depends on the auction. Gov auctions seem to be good as they sell everything after X number of miles or years. So most everything for sale has been maintained and is simply at it's sell off date.

I know a few years ago there were a glut of AWD GM passenger vans for sale locally all with less then 100k. I talked with one of the dealers and turns out they all came from the same auction.

I did well on a Jeep Cherokee years ago from a government auction. Same situation 10-12 Cherokees for sale at this auction all with low miles from the same agency.

But going to auctions takes time. And impulse can get the better of you....

 

[Lunchbox2]

Crawl underneath it and check it out. If it's not rusted out, and no crazy frame damage, it would probably be a good candidate for a DIY Ujoint conversion.

 

[dar395]

My only problem with auctions is they're usually there for a reason. I've seen plenty of people get burned with bad headgaskets or trans problems from auction vehicles. This van is owned by an older gentleman who hauled his kids and grandkids around, seems to be a straight shooter. The van is dirty, but the oil, trans fluid, and antifreeze are pretty clean.

I've been driving GSAauctions vehicles for years and never been burn yet, my own 2001 Ford E350 was a mear $2911 runs like a champ and body and frame rust free, you need to know what auctions and where the auto is coming from I agree but all auction vehicle are not there because they're junk. and your in an area where there's lots of Federal Vehicles to pick from.

 

[JohnnyBootlegger]

 

[JohnnyBootlegger]

Stopped and snapped a few pics last night. Definitely surface rust but it's been sitting for over a year. I can't see any place where the frame was hit/bent. There is no rust in the body that I can find. The guy said he was quoted $600 to fix it a year ago so it can't be too bad?

 

[Corneilius]

That aluminum plate bolted to the passenger frame rail in the first picture is weird, definitely not stock.... Rusty but i've seen waay worse. At this point id be considering the rest of the van. What kind of shape is the interior in? Front seats trashed? Power options? Cruise control? Rain gutters rusty? Pull the doghouse and make sure nothing was living on the engine. Are the tires dry rotted?

 

[philos]

ALU plate is for a steering stabilizer, prob Monroe...


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