Wheel bearing field repair

[James86004]

We had a bearing failure yesterday, where the two bearings disintegrated, except for the inner race of the inner bearing. That was stuck on the shaft. I would like any advice on how to get that off quickly. The way I eventually got if off was by cutting it in two places with a Dremel, then hammering it off. I cut into the axle shaft a bit while doing this, which I will have to see about fixing.

I tried twisting the race with vise grips, then hammering the vise grips. I tried chiseling between the race and the shaft stop. I tried chiseling the shaft in a twisting direction. Then, I got out my file and started cutting the race in two. After I had been at this for an hour, one of my daughter's 1st Grade classmates and her mother pulled up and offered help. It was really weird to run into them in this particular location, but they gave me a ride for the hour to my house, where I was able to get a whole bunch of tools, including the Dremel and an extension cord and a power inverter. The Dremel cut through it in about 10 minutes. I might have been able to file through it in the 2 hours it took to go get the Dremel, but I am glad they showed up.

The old bearing was very rusty looking. I guess water got in during my last creek crossing, but that was 9 months ago and I have pulled this trailer hundreds of miles on multiple trips since then.

 

[njtaco]

Perhaps heating the race with Mapp gas or propane? (Short of a oxy-acy setup being available.)

Other than that, a cold chisel, a 3# hammer and a jack stand to back it up...you probably already carry these 3 items.

 

[GeoTracker90]

I went through the same thing last year in Phillipsburg, MT. I got lucky and after 15 minutes of beating on it with a 3# hammer and cold chissel I was able to dislodge the inner race. I did have a file and cleaned up the spindle as good as can be expected. I ended up having to make two trips to Anaconda, MT to get the bearings and seals that I needed. Added 120 miles to the trip.

If the spindle is too small in diameter, after the forcefull removal of the old inner bearing race, to hold the race of the new inner bearing there is a back woods way of fixing this. Take the hammer and a center punch and make little prick marks around the diameter of the spindle. This will raise the material enough to keep the inner bearing race from spinning on the spindle. This tecnique can also be used if the bearing races in the hub become loose. Just use the punch to make the prick marks in the hub where the race will seat, then drive the race into position.

I ended up replacing the axle tube after this because it was too damaged to feel safe about.

From now on I will always carry a new set of bearings and seals for both sides and would even like to carry a spare hub as well. (Mine doesn't have brakes.)

Mike

(I hope that all made sense.)

 

[njtaco]

If the spindle is too small in diameter, after the forcefull removal of the old inner bearing race, to hold the race of the new inner bearing there is a back woods way of fixing this. Take the hammer and a center punch and make little prick marks around the diameter of the spindle. This will raise the material enough to keep the inner bearing race from spinning on the spindle. This tecnique can also be used if the bearing races in the hub become loose. Just use the punch to make the prick marks in the hub where the race will seat, then drive the race into position.

Knurling...

Yup, knurling works.

BTW, the jack stand I was referring to is to back up the hammer, not to hold up the trailer. Set it under the spindle (race) and apply the chisel to the top of the race.

 

[BigAl]

I have been thinking about incorportating a spindle, bearings and hub into my spare tire carrier

 

[JeepN95YJ]

A word of warning concerning cold chisels and bearing races:

I recommend you hold the chisel with a rag wrapped around the chisel and resting on the bearing race. Wear eye protection and heavy gloves/long sleeves as well.

From experience, I struck a race with a chisel and heard a "phiiiinnng" sound whirring past my ear and subsequent "tinking" on the garage wall and floor. "I wonder what that was?"

The next strike brought a burning sensation in my left palm and more blood than I had ever seen in the shop. A small piece of bearing race broke off and went into my palm. Very small hole, but lots of mess. Now nearly 9 years later, it is still fun to use a magnet and show off at parties.

The Doctor said as long as it didn't show signs of infection, we would do more harm removing it than leaving it there. It is about 1/2 inch deep still to this day.

With that said, a cold chisel is a very effective method of splitting a bearing race.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Wish I had some sound advice for you, my best option would be heating it up with the gas-axe.

My last trailer bearing failure was catastrophic. However, I didn't even notice the issue until I was back in town so no side of the road repair.

 

[James86004]

Thanks for all the replies. I guess heat, and beating on it with a cloth wrapped cold chisel for at least 15 minutes is the way to go. I was looking on line and there are apparently axles with replaceable spindles available. I wish mine was like that - it would have made the job a lot easier.

Do you think something like Bearing Buddies would help prevent this from happening?

James

 

[njtaco]

Thanks for all the replies. I guess heat, and beating on it with a cloth wrapped cold chisel for at least 15 minutes is the way to go.

Either/or, not both. Only thing worse than cold, hard steel cutting you is hot, hard steel cutting you. Of course, you may not bleed as much...

That, and the oily rag may spontaneously combust against the hot race. :smilies27 (I actually had this happen!)

15 minutes is a long time to remove a race with a cold chisel. Remember, you are trying to "split" it, or "crack" it, not "cut" it.

I was looking on line and there are apparently axles with replaceable spindles available. I wish mine was like that - it would have made the job a lot easier.

Do you think something like Bearing Buddies would help prevent this from happening?

James

Bearing buddies are NOT a replacement for proper and frequent repacking of bearings. They shine most when dipping a hot hub assembly in cold water, causing the grease to shrink and suck in water past the seal. The spring-loaded Bearing Buddy prevents water ingestion to the hub by applying positive pressure to the back of the seal. So...yes, they would help prevent this from happening, but give a false sense of security. Especially if it gets knocked off by a rock.:shakin:

 

[Martyn]

Two pieces of advice.

Use a bearing buddy to pack the bearings with grease. The spring applies pressure to the grease and helps keep the water out.

Do regular bearing maintenance, as in often. Check for bearing play and repack the bearings a few times a year, and visually inspect once a year.

See http://www.atreport.com/bearing&hub.html

 

[James86004]

So, why do my trailer wheel bearings need more frequent attention than my vehicle bearings? I know the ones on my truck are enormous by comparison, but my MGB bearings are about the same size and I don't touch them for years.

 

[njtaco]

I don't know what bearings the Rover uses, but the Chevy has non-servicable bearings in the front and most likely oil-bathed bearings in the rear, in a vented housing. The vented housing means no "suction" around the seal, as long as the vent is working.

If the Rover does use conventional tapered roller bearings packed in grease, then you should service them on a schedule, and after every water crossing, IMHO.

Same goes for the MGB, if you run it under that much water...

 

[Martyn]

So, why do my trailer wheel bearings need more frequent attention than my vehicle bearings? I know the ones on my truck are enormous by comparison, but my MGB bearings are about the same size and I don't touch them for years.

I assume you haven't been driving your MGB off-road recently

The bearings on a trailer take quite a pounding off-road, in comparison to on road driving. In addition trailers have relatively high lateral forces applied to them, hence the ST or LT tire rating required for trailers.

The bearings also get bedded in quickly, most companies suggest checking the bearing for play at 50 miles. By 500 miles most new bearing will need to be readjusted.

I would venture a guess that 85-90% of all small trailers on the road have bearings that are out of adjustment. A similar number probably have not been greased or repacked since the trailer was new.

I rented a small trailer to haul a gas stove last week, prior to leaving I checked the bearings for play, both sides had 1/8" of movement. I tightened them before leaving, and suggested more frequent maintenance intervals to the local rental shop when I returned it.

As the one moving part on a trailer they are relatively a low maintenance part. Check them after they bed in, grease them a few times a year. Pull on the wheels every time you go out to make sure there is little or no play. That should take care of 95% of all your problems.

 

[James86004]

I don't know what bearings the Rover uses, but the Chevy has non-servicable bearings in the front and most likely oil-bathed bearings in the rear, in a vented housing. The vented housing means no "suction" around the seal, as long as the vent is working.

If the Rover does use conventional tapered roller bearings packed in grease, then you should service them on a schedule, and after every water crossing, IMHO.

Same goes for the MGB, if you run it under that much water...

The Rover uses oil-bathed bearings vented through the diff.

The MGB uses roller bearings packed in grease. They are a pain in the hiney to adjust, since you do it by changing out shims between the two halves.

 

[James86004]

I assume you haven't been driving your MGB off-road recently

The bearings on a trailer take quite a pounding off-road, in comparison to on road driving. In addition trailers have relatively high lateral forces applied to them, hence the ST or LT tire rating required for trailers.
d it.

As the one moving part on a trailer they are relatively a low maintenance part. Check them after they bed in, grease them a few times a year. Pull on the wheels every time you go out to make sure there is little or no play. That should take care of 95% of all your problems.

I don't know. I never take the trailer off-road, just on some really bad dirt roads. However, I agree this one takes a real beating - I think the suspension is WAY too stiff. It is a little pop-up tent trailer that weighs about 1500 lbs, and it has a Torflex suspension that is designed for much more weight. I don't think Starcraft intended it to go off pavement . I will never forget, shortly after we bought it 5 years ago, we were towing it down Woody Mtn Road, in our old Range Rover. The road is dirt, but it felt pretty smooth. I happened to look in the rear view mirror, and was amazed at how much the trailer was banging around. So, I slowed way down.

Bearing maintenance is now higher on my list of priorities.